Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thought it would be good for stag owners to let other stag owners what mods they consider to be the best/value and performance gains made, also things that might have been a waste of money.Love to here all your thoughts and latest mods :rant: So to get the ball rolling just fitted 2 my c34 an e bay split dump pipe 3 inch Hks copy $120 delivered and decatted my cat. Good power gains were made car comes on boost a lot quicker and not really much louder.

Stag on :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282167-whats-the-best-mod-to-your-stag/
Share on other sites

I'd say coilovers, its so much nicer to drive now.

Do you have a cat back as well? Because I was thinking of installing a split dump by itself but thought it would still be too loud?

No cat back yet just straight through rear muffler. I am starting at the turbo and working back, and the standard dump is so shit waste gate flow hits the back wall of stock dump pipe. I suppose how quiet it is will depends on rear muffler and weather you still run cat and pipe diameter. :)

Thought it would be good for stag owners to let other stag owners what mods they consider to be the best/value and performance gains made, also things that might have been a waste of money.Love to here all your thoughts and latest mods ;) So to get the ball rolling just fitted 2 my c34 an e bay split dump pipe 3 inch Hks copy $120 delivered and decatted my cat. Good power gains were made car comes on boost a lot quicker and not really much louder.

Stag on :(

Thought I would paste this in from r33 section also put it in the getting more power out of stag dont slap me over the wrist for my cut and paste just trying to be helpful found this gide helpful when I had my 33 most things should translate to c34 stag :cool: Although remember auto stags will need more piggy back type ecu's. Unless some one has managed to run a chip in a auto c34???Engine Tuning Stage 1

Exhaust (around 160rwkw)

The RB25DET is a sweet sounding engine but very quiet in standard form and as with most factory turbo cars the exhaust causes a huge restriction. A good free flowing exhaust will have the RB sounding great, turbo lag will be reduced, and power gained throughout the rev range. The new exhaust should start from the turbo with a dump pipe either a 3" open bell mouth or better still a split dump to separate the gases from the turbine and wastegate. From here a high quality 3" high flow cat should be used, then 3" all the way to the back of the car with high flow mufflers.

Average Cost: ???

Intake (160 to 170rwkw)

Now we have the exhaust side of the engine breathing the next step is to get more air into the engine. Either use a high performance air filter, or replace the air box with a POD style air filter. If you choose to go the POD filter route I recommend you fabricate some type of shield to keep hot air from the engine bay away from your intake. A cold air intake to the filter from the front of your Skyline will also give you a performance advantage. 5-10 rwkw is achievable with this mod.

Average Cost: ???

Intercooler Upgrade (165 to 180rwkw)

The standard R33 intercooler is tiny and before a boost increase I recommend installing a better cooler if you don’t you risk detonation on warm days. The R34 GTT intercooler is a good cheap upgrade for the R33 and bolts onto the same position as the stock item with minimal modification. The GTT intercooler is rated up to about 200rwkw if you plan on going further than this power figure a GTR or aftermarket front mount will be required. Be aware that with these systems new pipe work will be required and you may notice a small decrease in throttle response. You may notice a small increase in power with this mod without increasing boost as airflow will increase and the air will be denser. But it’s the ability to run more boost that makes this mod a good one. If you don’t plan on increasing your power level to over 200rwkw I recommend the GTT intercooler as its cheep and you will notice no difference in throttle response.

Average Cost: ???

Boost increase (175 to 185rwkw)

In standard form the R33 runs a two stage boost control system 5psi to 4500 rpm then 7psi to red line 7000 rpm. As mentioned before the turbo’s exhaust wheel is ceramic and they tend to fail if to much heat is generated. The amount of boost you can run with the stock turbo is debatable but I don’t recommend running more than 10 psi. You have a few options when choosing to increase the boost either a manual boost controller, electronic boost controller, or a new wastegate actuator.

A manual controller is very basic in its operation it bleeds off air causing the wastegate actuator to open later. The amount of boost run depends on the amount of air bled form the system. It is critical to install an after market boost gauge before carrying out this modification as the stock gauge is not accurate enough and is measured in mmg not psi or bar. Manual boost controllers are cheep and easy to install but they do have there disadvantages some can cause boost spikes and boost creep I have also found boost tends to tail off high in the rev range.

Electronic boost controllers on the other hand use stepper motors and monitor boost about every 10th of a second because of this boost spikes and boost creep are kept to a minimum, and the desired boost level is held to redline. Electronic boost controllers are expensive and for this level of modification a manual controller will probably be good enough.

A 3rd option is to install a different wastgate actuator and the good news is the R32 GTST item is exactly the same as the R33 except the spring inside is set for 10psi. R32 actuators can be hard to find but I think it’s the best option for this level of modification as boost spikes and boost creep are eliminated.

No mater which system you choose the 2 stage boost control system should be disconnected. After this mod is carried out many people notice flat spots throughout the rev range this is due to the ECU seeing an increase in airflow and as a safety precaution it richens the air fuel mixtures. Many people find re-gaping the spark plugs from 1.1mm to 0.8mm fixes this problem but if it does not you need to consider the next upgrade.

:banana: Stag on!!

Before any mods it pays to replace everything that has worn out, shocks, tie rod ends, bushes. Just bringing this stuff back to new will help alot!

Best mod(s) = Swaybars and adjustable caster bushes(more cater)

strut brace does impact on boot space a little but i find that most things fit around it etc (sits up pretty much against the back seat anyway) and if you ever need to take something larger, it's 2 bolts to remove the bar - just leave the end plates attached to the strut tops :down:

100_0711.jpg

100_0712.jpg

I'm going to cheat, and say the whole conversion for mine: my old man had everything done at once: mildly worked RB26, PFC, rims, brakes and SK suspension package etc...

Probably the most dramatic mod I did myself was......... Once again: the rear strut brace: ties it down so much better, and makes it heaps more tail-happy... For the sake of a couple of greenbacks, I think you'd be hard pressed to find better mod :down:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
×
×
  • Create New...