Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

whats similar is that they are auto stags with highflows....... its all the same basic principles / theories.

S1, S2, M35, all stags with the varied stagea features, auto boxes are auto boxes, and high flows are highflows. again a variety in types..... :)

May be the same principles, but... auto boxes are not all the same. The clutch packs in my box are just too small for the power I want to run. Unless you know of a manual that fits easy, I have no choice but to limit the torque output.

I installed the turbo today, also stuck heat shield around the turbo on the firewall as im not running the rear heat shield. Gearbox doesnt look like its going to be assembled untill next week, as the custom clutch parts havent been manufactured yet. ;)

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

look into the 34 getrag.. seriously. or a 33,32 gtr box in general..

from the brief moment i was under my car i'd say it would have to fit.

a custom bell housing maybe, drive shaft, and prop shaft and bobs your uncleeeeeee...

Must people seem to stick with the ball bearing cores when high-flowing, as some have the opinion that moving from ball bearing to bush bearing is a downgrade even if it is high-flowed.

I'd be interested to hear how you find the bush bearing though, just make sure you take good care of it and use a turbo timer or give it a few minutes to idle before turning the engine off etc.

Once I get the ecu remap out of the way and know they can tune the M35 I'll be sending a turbo off to GCG for a ball bearing high-flow. (can't wait!)

Must people seem to stick with the ball bearing cores when high-flowing, as some have the opinion that moving from ball bearing to bush bearing is a downgrade even if it is high-flowed.

I'd be interested to hear how you find the bush bearing though, just make sure you take good care of it and use a turbo timer or give it a few minutes to idle before turning the engine off etc.

Once I get the ecu remap out of the way and know they can tune the M35 I'll be sending a turbo off to GCG for a ball bearing high-flow. (can't wait!)

Not really necessary Stephen.

All you have to do is take it easy for the last block on the way to your destination.

Not only will it allow the turbo to cool down, but also the transmission, diff etc, which all need to cool as well.

You don't need to worry about the negatives that a TT brings.

Must people seem to stick with the ball bearing cores when high-flowing, as some have the opinion that moving from ball bearing to bush bearing is a downgrade even if it is high-flowed.

I'd be interested to hear how you find the bush bearing though, just make sure you take good care of it and use a turbo timer or give it a few minutes to idle before turning the engine off etc.

Once I get the ecu remap out of the way and know they can tune the M35 I'll be sending a turbo off to GCG for a ball bearing high-flow. (can't wait!)

Should be fine. If you see how the ball bearing units work you wont be as impressed, much the same as an old bike hub.

I would have gone with gcg if they had been more forward with information.

The car is back on the road after the tune. It managed 200 at the wheels at 14 psi, which is quite respectable I think.

The turbine housing still seems to be the limiting factor and is the hardest part to change so I think that will end the power gains for now. The injectors, pump and regulator would also need changing if any more fuel was required.

Im very happy with the Kewish Automotive rebuild on the gearbox. Shifting is quick and firm at all power levels without any clunking at all, highly recommended.

And I have some mates coming around tomorrow to help me fit the BC coilovers. Hopefully that will sort the handling out too.

Pretty sure Nissan have been using JATCO boxes in Skylines/Stageas since S3 R31's

Try the late 1960's - the 1969-built LHD 240Z had the 3N71A, the 3N71B/4N71B was used from 1970 through to 1988(ish) in a number of Japanese makes and then the RE401-series took over until the end of the RB. I'm sure the current model is a JATCO too!

PS good power Scott - considering flexible engine management is still a bit of a headache.

:rolleyes:

It managed 200 at the wheels at 14 psi

200 killa wasps at 14psi....good result considering I was at 17psi to get 199.99kw's!.......must be the intercooler and wheel size making the difference.

Are you using the standard boost controller or an aftermarket one?

Edited by Jetwreck
200 killa wasps at 14psi....good result considering I was at 17psi to get 199.99kw's!.......must be the intercooler and wheel size making the difference.

Are you using the standard boost controller or an aftermarket one?

3" FMIC piping = less pressure with higher flow

The car is back on the road after the tune. It managed 200 at the wheels at 14 psi, which is quite respectable I think.

And I have some mates coming around tomorrow to help me fit the BC coilovers. Hopefully that will sort the handling out too.

Congrats on powahhh, bloody respectable I'd say. Interested to hear your thoughts on the BC coilovers too.

Cheers, Dale

BC is not buddy club

they are different brand

although i was told that it's the same factroy (not 100% on this)

Buddclub dont have anything for the nm35's yet

ahhh got ya, i assumed buddy club :D

yeah a few brands steer clear of NM35s for some reason......

ASS | U | ME

(mainly because I assumed they were BuddyClub as well) :yes:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...