Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

whats similar is that they are auto stags with highflows....... its all the same basic principles / theories.

S1, S2, M35, all stags with the varied stagea features, auto boxes are auto boxes, and high flows are highflows. again a variety in types..... :)

May be the same principles, but... auto boxes are not all the same. The clutch packs in my box are just too small for the power I want to run. Unless you know of a manual that fits easy, I have no choice but to limit the torque output.

I installed the turbo today, also stuck heat shield around the turbo on the firewall as im not running the rear heat shield. Gearbox doesnt look like its going to be assembled untill next week, as the custom clutch parts havent been manufactured yet. ;)

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

look into the 34 getrag.. seriously. or a 33,32 gtr box in general..

from the brief moment i was under my car i'd say it would have to fit.

a custom bell housing maybe, drive shaft, and prop shaft and bobs your uncleeeeeee...

Must people seem to stick with the ball bearing cores when high-flowing, as some have the opinion that moving from ball bearing to bush bearing is a downgrade even if it is high-flowed.

I'd be interested to hear how you find the bush bearing though, just make sure you take good care of it and use a turbo timer or give it a few minutes to idle before turning the engine off etc.

Once I get the ecu remap out of the way and know they can tune the M35 I'll be sending a turbo off to GCG for a ball bearing high-flow. (can't wait!)

Must people seem to stick with the ball bearing cores when high-flowing, as some have the opinion that moving from ball bearing to bush bearing is a downgrade even if it is high-flowed.

I'd be interested to hear how you find the bush bearing though, just make sure you take good care of it and use a turbo timer or give it a few minutes to idle before turning the engine off etc.

Once I get the ecu remap out of the way and know they can tune the M35 I'll be sending a turbo off to GCG for a ball bearing high-flow. (can't wait!)

Not really necessary Stephen.

All you have to do is take it easy for the last block on the way to your destination.

Not only will it allow the turbo to cool down, but also the transmission, diff etc, which all need to cool as well.

You don't need to worry about the negatives that a TT brings.

Must people seem to stick with the ball bearing cores when high-flowing, as some have the opinion that moving from ball bearing to bush bearing is a downgrade even if it is high-flowed.

I'd be interested to hear how you find the bush bearing though, just make sure you take good care of it and use a turbo timer or give it a few minutes to idle before turning the engine off etc.

Once I get the ecu remap out of the way and know they can tune the M35 I'll be sending a turbo off to GCG for a ball bearing high-flow. (can't wait!)

Should be fine. If you see how the ball bearing units work you wont be as impressed, much the same as an old bike hub.

I would have gone with gcg if they had been more forward with information.

The car is back on the road after the tune. It managed 200 at the wheels at 14 psi, which is quite respectable I think.

The turbine housing still seems to be the limiting factor and is the hardest part to change so I think that will end the power gains for now. The injectors, pump and regulator would also need changing if any more fuel was required.

Im very happy with the Kewish Automotive rebuild on the gearbox. Shifting is quick and firm at all power levels without any clunking at all, highly recommended.

And I have some mates coming around tomorrow to help me fit the BC coilovers. Hopefully that will sort the handling out too.

Pretty sure Nissan have been using JATCO boxes in Skylines/Stageas since S3 R31's

Try the late 1960's - the 1969-built LHD 240Z had the 3N71A, the 3N71B/4N71B was used from 1970 through to 1988(ish) in a number of Japanese makes and then the RE401-series took over until the end of the RB. I'm sure the current model is a JATCO too!

PS good power Scott - considering flexible engine management is still a bit of a headache.

:rolleyes:

It managed 200 at the wheels at 14 psi

200 killa wasps at 14psi....good result considering I was at 17psi to get 199.99kw's!.......must be the intercooler and wheel size making the difference.

Are you using the standard boost controller or an aftermarket one?

Edited by Jetwreck
200 killa wasps at 14psi....good result considering I was at 17psi to get 199.99kw's!.......must be the intercooler and wheel size making the difference.

Are you using the standard boost controller or an aftermarket one?

3" FMIC piping = less pressure with higher flow

The car is back on the road after the tune. It managed 200 at the wheels at 14 psi, which is quite respectable I think.

And I have some mates coming around tomorrow to help me fit the BC coilovers. Hopefully that will sort the handling out too.

Congrats on powahhh, bloody respectable I'd say. Interested to hear your thoughts on the BC coilovers too.

Cheers, Dale

BC is not buddy club

they are different brand

although i was told that it's the same factroy (not 100% on this)

Buddclub dont have anything for the nm35's yet

ahhh got ya, i assumed buddy club :D

yeah a few brands steer clear of NM35s for some reason......

ASS | U | ME

(mainly because I assumed they were BuddyClub as well) :yes:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!
    • Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator...   On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...
    • Do you have any before and after photos? That's $200 just for the hydro blasting?
    • Yea pedal box and no abs
    • It doesn't look like there's a lot of options out there these days, and what's out there is performance oriented aftermarket stuff (with the GTR markup) I wonder if there are other cars with similar springs, after all its just a matter of length, diameter and stiffness. Alternatively, I did see coil spacers. Probably not the best option, but could be serviceable too.  
×
×
  • Create New...