Atp Highflow

[scotty nm35]

  [[d a n n y]] said:

if your in sydney

i could possible let u have a feel of mine

im getting my set next week

Should be interesting to see what they have for you, Danny. Are you getting them from Just Jap?

My rears were definitely for a different car. The rear springs dont go high enough and run out of thread and the top alloy plate on the shock has different bolt spacing and sits up too high into the body. I had to use the top plate off the originals

Then I had to make a spacer on the lathe so the bottom fork wouldnt slop around too, was 5 mm too big.

Fronts fitted great, and I could lower them almost to the ground.

[scotty nm35]

  Jetwreck said:

200 killa wasps at 14psi....good result considering I was at 17psi to get 199.99kw's!.......must be the intercooler and wheel size making the difference.

Are you using the standard boost controller or an aftermarket one?

I have disconnected the boost solenoid and use a bleed tap in its place, you cant tune for the lower boost at cold so got rid of it, and who doesnt want max boost when warming the car up?

I took a pic of the dyno sheets, I will post it soon. It shows 17 psi then dropping to 13 at redline, 14psi at peak power.

And there is definitely a major restriction causing this 200 awkw power limit, probably the standard exhaust manifold and turbine housing. Raising boost flows no more air. So anyone got a set of aftermarket manifolds laying around?

[[[d a n n y]]]

  scotty nm35 said:

Should be interesting to see what they have for you, Danny. Are you getting them from Just Jap?

My rears were definitely for a different car. The rear springs dont go high enough and run out of thread and the top alloy plate on the shock has different bolt spacing and sits up too high into the body. I had to use the top plate off the originals

Then I had to make a spacer on the lathe so the bottom fork wouldnt slop around too, was 5 mm too big.

Fronts fitted great, and I could lower them almost to the ground.

damn that just made me..

rethink..

hm..

i dont wanna go through that hassle

[zei20l]

  scotty nm35 said:

you cant tune for the lower boost at cold so got rid of it

that might be some peoples problems! something could be stuck!

[KiwiRS4T]

  scotty nm35 said:

I have disconnected the boost solenoid and use a bleed tap in its place, you cant tune for the lower boost at cold so got rid of it, and who doesnt want max boost when warming the car up?

I took a pic of the dyno sheets, I will post it soon. It shows 17 psi then dropping to 13 at redline, 14psi at peak power.

And there is definitely a major restriction causing this 200 awkw power limit, probably the standard exhaust manifold and turbine housing. Raising boost flows no more air. So anyone got a set of aftermarket manifolds laying around?

How do you know raising boost flows no more air? Doubt that the manifold is a problem at this level. Do you have 3in turbo back exhaust? If you have then a good tune should sort out some more power and your tuner should let you know when/if you need more fuel as in afm, injectors and pump (new fpr not necessary if you go for bigger injectors). Do you have any means of tuning it (aftermarket ecu, safc, sitc etc)? If not I guess you will eagerly waiting the results of the people trying to remap the standard ecu, which if it succeeds should be the most cost effective.

[scotty nm35]

  KiwiRS4T said:

How do you know raising boost flows no more air? Doubt that the manifold is a problem at this level. Do you have 3in turbo back exhaust? If you have then a good tune should sort out some more power and your tuner should let you know when/if you need more fuel as in afm, injectors and pump (new fpr not necessary if you go for bigger injectors). Do you have any means of tuning it (aftermarket ecu, safc, sitc etc)? If not I guess you will eagerly waiting the results of the people trying to remap the standard ecu, which if it succeeds should be the most cost effective.

I know because I was dialing the boost up and not seeing the max output rise. Im not out of fuel yet, 80% injector duty cycle, Cihan was trying to get just over 200 and couldnt. 199.8 was the best he could do. He said the turbo flows no more than that.

Seeing as there isnt a direct bolt on turbo or manifold upgrade around, looks like im stuck doing it myself. Just the way I like it.

Danny, I could send you the spacers I made if you still want to go ahead with the BC's

Edited August 21, 2009 by scotty nm35

[iamhe77]

  KiwiRS4T said:

How do you know raising boost flows no more air? Doubt that the manifold is a problem at this level. Do you have 3in turbo back exhaust? If you have then a good tune should sort out some more power and your tuner should let you know when/if you need more fuel as in afm, injectors and pump (new fpr not necessary if you go for bigger injectors). Do you have any means of tuning it (aftermarket ecu, safc, sitc etc)? If not I guess you will eagerly waiting the results of the people trying to remap the standard ecu, which if it succeeds should be the most cost effective.

Pressure and flow are two very different things.

Whether it is water or air, the principles are the same.

Trying to push 2L per second of water through a metre long 25mm hose will be at a higher pressure with less water "flowed" than if you tried the same thing with a 50mm hose.

The higher the pressure, the more drag the water/air received from the hose/pipe, which eventually becomes a limiting factor.

Scotty has a 3" straight through turbo back exhaust and an eManage Ultimate, so tunability isn't an issue.

I would doubt the afm/injectors/pump would be limiting factors at 200awkw, but I am just guessing here as I haven't spoken to the tuner.

Maybe the M35 has some kind of electronic restrictor in the ECU that piggybacks cannot get around... sorta like the R35 has in the TMU.

Or maybe it is something much simpler.

The piping on the manifold is... interesting...

Edited August 21, 2009 by iamhe77

[scotty nm35]

  iamhe77 said:

Pressure and flow are two very different things.

Whether it is water or air, the principles are the same.

Trying to push 2L per second of water through a metre long 25mm hose will be at a higher pressure with less water "flowed" than if you tried the same thing with a 50mm hose.

The higher the pressure, the more drag the water/air received from the hose/pipe, which eventually becomes a limiting factor.

Scotty has a 3" straight through turbo back exhaust and an eManage Ultimate, so tunability isn't an issue.

I would doubt the afm/injectors/pump would be limiting factors at 200awkw, but I am just guessing here as I haven't spoken to the tuner.

Maybe the M35 has some kind of electronic restrictor in the ECU that piggybacks cannot get around... sorta like the R35 has in the TMU.

Or maybe it is something much simpler.

The piping on the manifold is... interesting...

The piping on the manifold is... Dodgy

What is it with log manifolds anyway, I thought they went out of fashion in the 60's.

[iamhe77]

  scotty nm35 said:

The piping on the manifold is... Dodgy

What is it with log manifolds anyway, I thought they went out of fashion in the 60's.

Custom do up? (you wouldn't surprise me, bud)

Saw a Kinchrome engine hoist for $180 the other day....

Edited August 21, 2009 by iamhe77

[scotty nm35]

  iamhe77 said:

Custom do up? (you wouldn't surprise me, bud)

Saw a Kinchrome engine hoist for $180 the other day....

Already got a 2t hoist.

[iamhe77]

  scotty nm35 said:

Already got a 2t hoist.

So you didn't crack 200? WEAK!!

Just kidding. 500nm is nice!

hmm, must've missed the hoist when I was there (too much other shit to look at ).

So I guess the next questions is "when"?

[scotty nm35]

  iamhe77 said:

So you didn't crack 200? WEAK!!

Just kidding. 500nm is nice!

hmm, must've missed the hoist when I was there (too much other shit to look at ).

So I guess the next questions is "when"?

Whenever you want bud. Its a completely different car, ditch work and come drive it now...

[andy65b]

  scotty nm35 said:

Whenever you want bud. Its a completely different car, ditch work and come drive it now...

So what causes the did in power around the 100km/h mark. Is that that at 3500rpm where the cam angle changes?

[scotty nm35]

  andy65b said:

So what causes the did in power around the 100km/h mark. Is that that at 3500rpm where the cam angle changes?

I would say so. It can be adjusted on the emanage I think.

[Jetwreck]

  scotty nm35 said:

I took a pic of the dyno sheets, I will post it soon. It shows 17 psi then dropping to 13 at redline, 14psi at peak power.

At 17PSI your's pretty much the same....but a much neater tune....have to admit the only reason I went to 18PSI was to get over 200KW's . The is defiantly a restriction in these motors....could be the heads or cams, no? Did you still go with the GT25 build on your turbo?

[scotty nm35]

  Jetwreck said:

At 17PSI your's pretty much the same....but a much neater tune....have to admit the only reason I went to 18PSI was to get over 200KW's . The is defiantly a restriction in these motors....could be the heads or cams, no? Did you still go with the GT25 build on your turbo?

Custom wheels in a bushed core, I think the rear housing should flow more than that.

I would say its the log manifold and if you were going to make one, you would definitely need a GT-RS with external gate just to fit it all in there. And then you will still be limited by cams, pump and injectors.

[pixel8r]

  iamhe77 said:

So you didn't crack 200? WEAK!!

Just kidding. 500nm is nice!

hmm, must've missed the hoist when I was there (too much other shit to look at ).

So I guess the next questions is "when"?

I thought the torque readout was meaningless with autos on a dyno. The story I've heard is that unless the dyno is setup with all the correct parameters specific to that car, it cannot measure torque accurately.

Something to do with the fact that the torque converter multiplies torque to the wheels, but the dyno has no way of knowing by how much etc.

[scotty nm35]

  pixel8r said:

I thought the torque readout was meaningless with autos on a dyno. The story I've heard is that unless the dyno is setup with all the correct parameters specific to that car, it cannot measure torque accurately.

Something to do with the fact that the torque converter multiplies torque to the wheels, but the dyno has no way of knowing by how much etc.

I think thats why its measured in Newtons and not the usual Newton meter? Not really sure.

A better way to measure it is the traction test. (do I smell rubber?)

[[[d a n n y]]]

man..

im rather than bc i think illg o with tanabe then??

i dont wanna hassle with the thing..

also can u post pics of your car now?

[scotty nm35]

  [[d a n n y]] said:

man..

im rather than bc i think illg o with tanabe then??

i dont wanna hassle with the thing..

also can u post pics of your car now?

No problem. I think its getting lower by the minute.