Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 214
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Well i made a new set of drivers side seat rails again today and i am still not happy with them.

The first design was custom adj sides mounted to the factory bolt holes, due to the seat having a large lip on the lower front edge i could not get it to side far enough back for me (too tall).

The next one was straight to the floor pan of the car this gave me good height and allowed the seat to slide back heaps but cause the slide sits next to the seat i could not get the seat dead centre with the steering column (10 mm to the right GRRRRR).

So it is back to the drawing board, i am thinking about some square rhs with three nutsert threads in it and three sets of holes in the seat mts to allow some movement back and forth (No adj slides). My only problem is the nutsert threads are only M6, i am a bit worried about there strength.

If anyone has some good pics of their mounts or some ideas that would be very helpful.

Cheers.

Andrew,

I drilled into the lower control arms up front on the cross memebr I think? so as you move the hole to put some bolt it...it pushes the bottom half out.

I had just over -4 camber up front

was wicked!

hurry up Ryan!!

we gotta hit the track together!

  • 2 weeks later...

I did some thing similar. I only moved the arm up looking for better roll C. I have seen some redrilled out where the cross is for camber as well.

IM000776.jpg

As for camber in mine, I used a big mofo rose joint rod end and nut.

IM000774-1.jpg

Edited by Noddy
  • 3 weeks later...

Well it has been a while again, but the progress is picking up slowly i have primed and painted the inside in GMH acrylic black, it is the closest thing i could find to matt black. It looks ok and should not rust or reflect any light at me.

paint03.jpg

paint02.jpg

I just have to wire it up over the next three days and try and finish inside the car.

Yes I have something running :)

Yes I want to come down but it is the same weekend as the mid year Noosa Hillclimb. :spank:

You should come for a blat up the hill in the november event dunc. its on Nov 13/14, I think its the weekend before the national supersprint, Nov 20/21?

Sorry for the side track Ryan. I like your cage by the way.

Absolutely perfect mate. I will be up for the nationals if I have to bring a push bike. I just need to impose on someone near morgan park to store the car for a week :) send me details as soon as the other weekend is open, I'll be in and I bet Neil will be too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...