Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

on the other hand anyone tried Kumho KU31?

I had them on a previous car, they were a pretty good balance of price, grip, road noise and wear. Actually I did have them very briefly on my current car on the 18's, only drove about 50km and since the car hadn't been registered/insured for about half of that I was taking it pretty easy :D I seem to remember they were the second cheapest tyre in stock size that had the right sizes available front and back but at that size and profile it's more the performance end of the market...

My favourite tyres (previous car again) were Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3's, heaps of grip, really quiet, excellent in the wet but cost a bit more.

I tend to find if you care about performance with tyres, you are better off spending a bit more and getting something good, because if you get crap tyres you've got to put up with them for a long time.

Tire rack I think is ok for a bit of research:

Tirerack 2003 Infinity G35

For example Kumho KU31's aka Ecsta SPT's get a rating of 6.9 but are among much more expensive tyres with similar ratings.

they are a cheap and nasty tyre that belong on korean cars. if you cant afford the tyre then you cant afford the rims. doesnt make a lot of sense to me to spend a lot of $$ on a sports car to put shit tyres on it and undo all of the manufacturers work.

if u want cheap + reasonably good tyres...get the Federal's 595 or Archilles ATR they are cheaper than the nankangs with better grip and less road noise. Dont know about wear rate though coz i've never kept a set of wheels long enough to wear the tyres out.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 years later...

Cant help you with the Michelin, however I recently (3 weeks ago) replaced my two front tyres from BF Goodrich (came from Japan on the car and the same models are not available in Aus) to Yokahama Advan Sports (245x19 35).

Since changing, it appears the front have WAY more grip. The Traction control kicks in much later; it is now more me that holds back on corners than reaching the point that the traction control kicks in.

I have noticed if I do try to push it to find the grip break point, the rears (Falken FK452 285x19 35) will break first. Not a fan of over-steer but at least I know the fronts are grippy. I am expecting pretty low KM's from these, but I could be wrong.

Only had experience with a little rain thus far, but so far, pretty happy. They are not cheap. I think retail is over 400 each.

nankangs suck what on earth are you guys thinking running shit tyres on a sports car?tyres have a bigger effect on handling than ANY other component.

get the best tyres you can afford,at a minimum something like Bridgestone Adrenalin, Dunlop Sport maxx or Yoko S.Drive or similar..

I had Yokohama Advan Sport which were good,now running Bridgestone RE11s which are really good!

i would consider a better tyre in a narrower size over a crap tyre in a wider size too.

Nankang is probably better than chinese ebay tyres...

if youre like me, and you only need tyres to stop your rims touching the ground and to last forever, then anything chinese is fine. but if you want grip in corners... spend the extra $$ but expect a short tyre life.

ive seen Simex used on the track in the wet and do well.....

i can't fault my Achiles ATR Sports. Had them on the car since September, tread still looks the day that i put them on minus the nipples. I do alot of spirited driving, i don't break traction very often either so that's probably why. But the car is my daily, i am happy with these tyres but my next set would probably be some Federal 595's. Achiles ATR's are a noisy tyre, but i always have windows up music on and aircon so i never notice it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dear folks My family members have 4 different cars : Triton 2015 and Corolla 2011 and Mazda3 2012 and Hyundai Elantra 2014 Looking to buy engine oil funnel spill free What I found are are below  https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BBTTJNKX?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image&th=1 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/145553221359?srsltid=AfmBOoqYBU6Ptw0LU_bAp_k67U3qkF97HHvePkA7iHZw8vUmiwoIRaRr https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09X23TCS5?th=1 Is there a funnel with attachment that fits most cars ? Don't mind to spend for a decent quality  Thx  
    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
×
×
  • Create New...