Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Impressive numbers but i assume they test with great drivers and dump that clutch hard on redline; not the way we would treat our cars....well at least i wouldnt.

I know the r34 gtr's new turbines produce better low end torque to help with the launch resulting in the better time.

I couldn't agree with you more. Those super low times are almost certainly launches where the drivers have dumped the clutch from redline or close to redline. The clutch won't last very long doing that.

I think every owner does it a few times when they buy their first GTR to see what it's like, but don't do it again unless they go to the drags or track days. It's mechanical abuse.

  • 3 years later...

I remember watching these old Japanese clips of some 1/4 mile drags with Skylines and other Jap cars.

The R33 did a best of 13.0 secs with other runs being around 13.1 and 13.2. The Supra did 14.0, RX7 13.5.

I believe under 13 secs is possible with the restrictor removed.

Hi guys..... I ran my 100% stock JDM at WSID (or whatever it is called now) about 12 months ago.......

I refused to dump the clutch and consistently ran 14.4-14.6. (Around 13-14 runs all up on the day).

From memory it was doing about 166kph at the end.

Tricked up HSV's were doing high 12's/low 13's with very similar terminal speeds.

My 0-30m time were awful as I basically just took of revving it to 2000rpm.

I've been invited to another private day in August but don't want to be embarrassed with similar times.

Are there any tricks that will improve my times without sidestepping the clutch at 6000rpm?

Thanks.... Bob.

Well you did just go ahead and bump a thread that's been inactive nearly 4 years. One would assume the 2013 is going to be quicker then the 2009 version....

Bob, get the clutch to where it takes up, sit just off it, get some revs up to get turbos wound up, nail it, then slip the clutch really quick... Doing almost this I was pulling 1.6 60ft on crappy Nexens (I was getting to the limiter first) and I am running a double plate. The car doesn't bang or shudder, it just sits down and wheel spins a bit at the back then launches. The photos I have it almost has the fronts off the ground.. ;)

Bob, get the clutch to where it takes up, sit just off it, get some revs up to get turbos wound up, nail it, then slip the clutch really quick... Doing almost this I was pulling 1.6 60ft on crappy Nexens (I was getting to the limiter first) and I am running a double plate. The car doesn't bang or shudder, it just sits down and wheel spins a bit at the back then launches. The photos I have it almost has the fronts off the ground.. ;)

Appreciate the feedback....... what about disabling the 4WD (pulling the fuse), does this make any difference or make it slower?

Bob, get the clutch to where it takes up, sit just off it, get some revs up to get turbos wound up, nail it, then slip the clutch really quick... Doing almost this I was pulling 1.6 60ft on crappy Nexens (I was getting to the limiter first) and I am running a double plate. The car doesn't bang or shudder, it just sits down and wheel spins a bit at the back then launches. The photos I have it almost has the fronts off the ground.. ;)

Exactly. Before you launch you should load up the drive train so there is tension and nothing is slack. As iplen said. What I do is get the clutch to the point when feel the car moving, put the hand brake on after it moves slightly. Rev to 5k on a stock motor and slip the clutch slightly and release the hand brake and clutch at the same time. No crashing or clunking. Might wear the clutch a bit but rather that than breaking something. Cheers.

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...