Jump to content
SAU Community

Gt-r Quarter Mile Times

Shinrai
 Share

Recommended Posts

ras1983 Experienced

ras1983

Posted
Posted
Impressive numbers but i assume they test with great drivers and dump that clutch hard on redline; not the way we would treat our cars....well at least i wouldnt.

I know the r34 gtr's new turbines produce better low end torque to help with the launch resulting in the better time.

I couldn't agree with you more. Those super low times are almost certainly launches where the drivers have dumped the clutch from redline or close to redline. The clutch won't last very long doing that.

I think every owner does it a few times when they buy their first GTR to see what it's like, but don't do it again unless they go to the drags or track days. It's mechanical abuse.

  • 3 years later...
Sovereign337 Collaborator

Sovereign337

Posted
Posted

I remember watching these old Japanese clips of some 1/4 mile drags with Skylines and other Jap cars.

The R33 did a best of 13.0 secs with other runs being around 13.1 and 13.2. The Supra did 14.0, RX7 13.5.

I believe under 13 secs is possible with the restrictor removed.

Aussie_Delivered_R32_GTR Veteran

Aussie_Delivered_R32_GTR

Posted
Posted

Hi guys..... I ran my 100% stock JDM at WSID (or whatever it is called now) about 12 months ago.......

I refused to dump the clutch and consistently ran 14.4-14.6. (Around 13-14 runs all up on the day).

From memory it was doing about 166kph at the end.

Tricked up HSV's were doing high 12's/low 13's with very similar terminal speeds.

My 0-30m time were awful as I basically just took of revving it to 2000rpm.

I've been invited to another private day in August but don't want to be embarrassed with similar times.

Are there any tricks that will improve my times without sidestepping the clutch at 6000rpm?

Thanks.... Bob.

Truffles Community Regular

Truffles

Posted
Posted

Well you did just go ahead and bump a thread that's been inactive nearly 4 years. One would assume the 2013 is going to be quicker then the 2009 version....

iplen Mentor

iplen

Posted
Posted

Bob, get the clutch to where it takes up, sit just off it, get some revs up to get turbos wound up, nail it, then slip the clutch really quick... Doing almost this I was pulling 1.6 60ft on crappy Nexens (I was getting to the limiter first) and I am running a double plate. The car doesn't bang or shudder, it just sits down and wheel spins a bit at the back then launches. The photos I have it almost has the fronts off the ground.. ;)

Aussie_Delivered_R32_GTR Veteran

Aussie_Delivered_R32_GTR

Posted
Posted

Bob, get the clutch to where it takes up, sit just off it, get some revs up to get turbos wound up, nail it, then slip the clutch really quick... Doing almost this I was pulling 1.6 60ft on crappy Nexens (I was getting to the limiter first) and I am running a double plate. The car doesn't bang or shudder, it just sits down and wheel spins a bit at the back then launches. The photos I have it almost has the fronts off the ground.. ;)

Appreciate the feedback....... what about disabling the 4WD (pulling the fuse), does this make any difference or make it slower?

XGTRX Veteran

XGTRX

Posted
Posted

Bob, get the clutch to where it takes up, sit just off it, get some revs up to get turbos wound up, nail it, then slip the clutch really quick... Doing almost this I was pulling 1.6 60ft on crappy Nexens (I was getting to the limiter first) and I am running a double plate. The car doesn't bang or shudder, it just sits down and wheel spins a bit at the back then launches. The photos I have it almost has the fronts off the ground.. ;)

Exactly. Before you launch you should load up the drive train so there is tension and nothing is slack. As iplen said. What I do is get the clutch to the point when feel the car moving, put the hand brake on after it moves slightly. Rev to 5k on a stock motor and slip the clutch slightly and release the hand brake and clutch at the same time. No crashing or clunking. Might wear the clutch a bit but rather that than breaking something. Cheers.

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R34 GTR running rich and noisy turbo coincidence

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      CAS maybe?
    • silviaz
      Recomended Coolant For Gt T R34

      By silviaz · Posted

      What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • donut_kng
      R34 GTR running rich and noisy turbo coincidence

      By donut_kng · Posted

      Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • Rezz
      R34 4 door side skirt identification

      By Rezz · Posted

      No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
    • Rezz
      2001 R34DE

      By Rezz · Posted

      Welcome mate. Any pics? Even with a DE I'd be well happy if I had that as a 1st car. 
×
×
  • Create New...