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R33 Gtst Overheating

whistle

By whistle,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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whistle Community Regular

whistle

Posted
Posted

Well here goes, i was driving from home to Albion Park today (15 mins) and noticed that my temp gauge was reading a little higher than usual (just over half), but i thought nothing of it. Then when i was driving to work this afternoon (30 mins) the temp went up to just over 3/4.

I have owned the car for about 4 months and this is the first time this has happened.

The water level is good and overflow bottle was full (max line), theres no oil in the water or water in the oil and theres no visible water leaks, the radiator cap seems to be ok and the water pump is pumping i think.

The car is running a thermo fan and it is working (was in the car when i bought it) but for some reason it was spinning the wrong way (blowing instead of sucking), it has never gotten hot before.

I tried changing the polarity of the fan and it will suck but i don't know why it hasn't overheated before.

Is there any thing that can automatically make the fan spin backwards?

Has anyone experienced this sort of problem before?

Thanks David

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tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

Thermo fans spin whichever way you wire them. Is your thermo fan cutting in? It should have a relay and in line fuse.

Fuse is supposed to be [from memory and if its a davies craig unit] 60a. I'll check that and get back to you though.

I've had the same issues with a thermo fan, and it was either the relay or the fuse [i had the vehicle for over 10 years].

But have to say they work fine normally.

whistle Community Regular

whistle

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yes the fan is cutting in. They were wired up before i got the car and yes its a davies craig. I have checked the wiring as per the davies craig wiring diagram and it's correct. The fuse is a 10A.

SLAPS Rising Star

SLAPS

Posted
Posted

Got pics of the setup?

Your running a shroud I presume? 1 big single or 2 twin thermos?

My experience with non-oem thermo's have failed. 1 x 16" failed, 2 x 12" squeezed in also failed. Both were not running shrouds.

It was fine in the cooler weather but as soon as it started to warm up a little the needle began heading north.

tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

A 10a fuse won't take the load you are putting on it, esp. as it cuts in. by rights shouldn't be working at all. Get on their web site and ask, I'm sure it's a 60a [can't find the paperwork, I must have passed it on when I sold the vehicle].

I rang them and they told me [it was like 8 years ago then], there was a phone number at the bootom of the instruction sheet/warranty.

Spinning the wrong way will make your car heat up at lights and in traffic, if your driving down the road at anything over 40km/h it won't matter, the air blowing through your radiator will do more than any fan can manage.

whistle Community Regular

whistle

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The Davies craig diagram shows that the fuse is a 5A, im running 10A, which is too big anyway. 60A is way too big, if anything goes wrong it will blow up the fan motor or switch before the fuse blows.

Anyway i changed the polarity of the wires and today on the way to work the temp was back to normal.

Thanks for your help guys.

  • 1 month later...
PSY31 Rookie

PSY31

Posted
Posted
My experience with non-oem thermo's have failed. 1 x 16" failed, 2 x 12" squeezed in also failed. Both were not running shrouds.

I had the same problem and after spending a few hundred dollars on fan kits i was getting pissed off - found that it was pumping hot air back thru the un-shrouded core, you could feel it coming thru - fitted the shroud over the 16" and its all good now

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