Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have recently upgraded from a GT35r to a TO4Z, but the engine would not make any more power - just exhaust manifold backpressure...

RB30_Power_Run1.pdf

This is plot of the GT35 run. the TO4Z run is basically the same but has about 500rpm more lag.

Exhaust manifold backpressure with

GT35 is 30psi

TO4Z is 42psi

Inlet pressure is 20psi.

Any ideas that might cause this backpressure ???

Is the flow through a RB25 head likey to be the problem?

Setup is

RB30 block - built

RB25DET head - kelford cams 272deg 9.35mm lift, valve springs to suit

Custom exhaust manifold, merge collector similar to 6boost

Tial 44mm wastegate

4" exhaust, not cat

2.5" plumbing to intercooler, 3" after intercooler, 125mm thick GTR cooler.

Vh45 throttle body 80-90mm?

Jun Style inlet plemum.

720cc injectors

Autronic ecu

Hoping to make mid 400's rwkw

post-29626-1250637340_thumb.jpg

post-29626-1250637400_thumb.jpg

post-29626-1250637470_thumb.jpg

RB30_Power_Run1.pdf

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284058-power-problems/
Share on other sites

Have you dropped the exhaust from the dump pipe back?

Have you measured boost before and after fmic?

Sounds like you have a restriction somewhere and i doubt it's the rb25head.

My mechanic has made 485rwkw using a built rb25det and a T04Z (C16 fuel)

My car has made 330rwkw using a built rb25/30 and a GT30R (GT3076R)

** EDIT: **

Looking at your graph, the power you're making isn't bad at all :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284058-power-problems/#findComment-4776165
Share on other sites

Yes I have dropped the dump pipe, but not when on the dyno.

I have droped a tennis ball through it to check for blocks - it came out the other side so it gotta be pretty good.

Boost pressure either side of the intercooler is pretty much the same.

Dyno numbers aside, the strange thing is it just wont make any more power, we added 3psi boost and 2deg more timing - it only made 10 more kw.!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284058-power-problems/#findComment-4776496
Share on other sites

Yeah what are the turbine housing sizes of the outgoing 35 and the new T04z ?? Having a pressure ratio over 2:1 is why your power has stopped increasing. Without knowing turbine housing sizes id still say you just need the next turbine housing size up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284058-power-problems/#findComment-4779051
Share on other sites

Yeh it was me, i could write a book on the issues ive had.!

The GT35r setup first started off with 250rwkw, for all that are interested - some of the issues / things changed were:

*Spigit in the new cams was misaligned creating vibration in the CAS causing a large timing fluctuation.

*The unit in the ECU that heats the A/F ratio sensor was causing timing problems also.

*The boost controller electronics were faulty.

*The cam timing wasnt spot on.

Im sure there was much more that I have forgotten, during the process we changed the exhaust manifold, the wastegate position, and the A/R of the turbine housing, set a crank trigger to run timing. (none of this probally needed doing)

I still had fairly high backpressure, but the car was running good and making good power so i just went out and enjoyed it.

That is untill the craving for more caused me to change turbos - highlighting the flow problem.

GT35 - A/R 1.06

TO4Z - A/R 1.00

You can see the hole in the manifold collector where the pressure reading were taken.

The muffler is 4" straight through.

cheers rob

Edited by roba
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284058-power-problems/#findComment-4779907
Share on other sites

So you just pushed on when you knew you had problems last time? ugh... should have fixed it then, because now look :blush:

If you have backpressure in the maniold its only going to be coming from a few places.

Do you see boost climbing as if the gate is not venting enough?

It could be manifold

wastegate not passing enough air (due to manifold)

exhaust causing blockage (a tennis ball is not a test)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284058-power-problems/#findComment-4779917
Share on other sites

Retarded timing can cause large increases in exhaust BP. Perhaps you still have a timing issues. Checked timing under load on a dyno ?? (keep your head out of the way of belts incase they let go !)

And a simple way to rule out the exhaust system giving trouble is to move the pressure sensing out of the runner and into the dump for a few runs, or hook a boost gauge to it for a couple of runs. Then you can definatley rule it out.

As R31Nismoid said, tennis ball isnt a good test. You need to see the actual pressure. And when your this deep with problems, don't leave anything to chance.

Gary

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284058-power-problems/#findComment-4780935
Share on other sites

Have checked timing on dyno, and after we converted to crank trigger it rock solid.

Its not the exhaust - it's 4" straight through. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/po...98-IMG-2942.jpg

My engine builder thinks it is the cams as the duration at 0.05" is 216 and 216 (intake & ex). Advertised duration is 272 with 9.35mm lift

I dont know much about this area - can someone confirm this maybe the issue?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284058-power-problems/#findComment-4789606
Share on other sites

not a 100% sure, but i think advertised and what they are at .050" are never the same. I believe the standard measurement is always at .050" though.

check the cam card though to be certain!

Edited by r33_racer
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284058-power-problems/#findComment-4789968
Share on other sites

my car did this. i spent months and months chasing the problem. Cams are not too small, i am making 375rwkw with STOCK cams.

I think the issue is cam timing. Getting the cam timing right on a RB30 is quite tricky. I would first start by setting both cam gears to 0 and then tuning it and see what power it makes. Dont be suprised if the power sky rockets. on my RB30DET the car makes the most power with the ext cam gear set to 0.

Set them all back to stock and try again - report back with results

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284058-power-problems/#findComment-4793040
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...