Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

will grab a pic of exhaust for you tomorrow

also going to get pics of headlights

interior

gaurds

boot

etc

etc

thanks

keep the pms coming

  • Replies 91
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi there, ok thanks for your reply, i will take the RB25DET R33 Crossmember, please email me at [email protected] as i can't pm you as i haven't had 10 posts, new to Skylines Australia, i'm from SOUTH AFRICA, Mpumalanga, Nelspruit 1200. Please send me a PayPal invoice for Crossmember + Shipping to: SOUTH AFRICA, Mpumalanga, Nelspruit 1200, P.O.Box 8808, Dirkie +27832987571. Please put all these details on box & please just email me some photo's aswell for me to see the condition. Can you maybe find out a quote from DHL, i usally get my parts from Australia via DHL. Please get back to me ASAP for me to make Payment & for you to ship the part off asap. Thanks Dirkie

sorry no gear knob - seems to b a few ppl looking for them

also can anyone help me out is it possible to edit my original topic?

i wanna throw up prices etc etc

thanks

hey mate

photos of the upper dash (the major dash part, runs from driver to passanger side and down towards centre console, prob bad explination)

Let me know

Cheers

post-48080-1251807911_thumb.jpg

you mean the actual dash which the top air vents and stuff sit in?

or the dash facia that the hazard light swith and clock and stuff are on?

thanks just throwing this one up as i had it on my computer already

Edited by team carefactor

the one just under the windscreen, yeh the upper vents (demister for winscreen and that) sit in

thats the one lol, looks pretty good condition, no damage on it?

depending on how much for the dash plus postage ill be interested... If you can do it for $200 total then I'll take it?

not sure how much postage would be on it thats the only thing.... Let me know

Edited by 89CAL
post-48080-1251807911_thumb.jpg

you mean the actual dash which the top air vents and stuff sit in?

or the dash facia that the hazard light swith and clock and stuff are on?

thanks just throwing this one up as i had it on my computer already

Is that steering wheel the non-air bag version?

yeah thats the series 1 one (non air bag)

its weathered a little on the top of the wheel but

as im sure u know what i mean

the sun damage they get from getting hit with the sun

the series 2 one is even worse :down: would be ok for just the air bag set up on it but i doubt anyone would want teh actual wheel

sorry should hopefulley get a pic of the exhaust today

its under a whole heap of crap in the shed and just havnt had time to get to it sorry

yeah thats the series 1 one (non air bag)

its weathered a little on the top of the wheel but

as im sure u know what i mean

the sun damage they get from getting hit with the sun

the series 2 one is even worse
:down:
would be ok for just the air bag set up on it but i doubt anyone would want teh actual wheel

sorry should hopefulley get a pic of the exhaust today

its under a whole heap of crap in the shed and just havnt had time to get to it sorry

do u still have turbo?

will pay 4 it 2day if u stil have

let me no a.s.a.p

ph. 0439676835

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...