Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

After a few weeks, I have finally got my act together and put my car up for sale properly! :)

I have started with listing it on carsales, which also puts you on car point - etc.

Does anyone else have any other ideas or advice in regards to selling a GTR? Apart from listing it here on the forums! haha

Being a specialist car, I guess you need to ensure you are targeting the right audience.

Those who have had the experience previously selling a GTR, please share your advice! How did you sell it, how long did it take - etc.

Cheers.

Edited by KR4-GTR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/286987-best-way-to-sell-a-r33-gtr/
Share on other sites

Best Way? Convince the buyer its a 32GTR :-)

Jokes aside, I think carsales/carpoint are by far the largest site at the moment so i would stick with them. Just be patient. I sold 2 V35's through them and it took a couple of months but got the price i wanted and not a cent less.

Most important thing - Price it correctly.

Don't dream on about some unrealistic price, you'll see a dozen and then some cars listed on carsales.com.au (and various other sites) that are far too high for what they are.

Price it well, it will sell.

Otherwise be prepared to have it up for sale for 3-6 months as there is no shortage of GTR's on the market, never is a shortage really.

If you have it for sale for 2-3 months with out any serious interest then you clearly have not priced it well and you simply have to wait - meanwhile the overall price keeps dropping... so makes sense to price correctly.

Also dont say "I'm willing to take offers lower blah blah", just price the car at the price you will sell for. EG. Don't price it $3000 higher than you will take. People won't even ask.

Correct pricing generates much better interest and will sell much faster everytime.

They are hardly a 'specialist' car. Specialist would be a Ferrari/Lambo. R33 GTR's are a dime a dozen.

Just because its kinda-limited, doesn't mean much to a buyer unless they are an enthusiast and you'll be waiting for a while for those kinds of people if it doesn't sell right away.

Most important thing - Price it correctly.

Don't dream on about some unrealistic price, you'll see a dozen and then some cars listed on carsales.com.au (and various other sites) that are far too high for what they are.

Price it well, it will sell.

Otherwise be prepared to have it up for sale for 3-6 months as there is no shortage of GTR's on the market, never is a shortage really.

If you have it for sale for 2-3 months with out any serious interest then you clearly have not priced it well and you simply have to wait - meanwhile the overall price keeps dropping... so makes sense to price correctly.

Also dont say "I'm willing to take offers lower blah blah", just price the car at the price you will sell for. EG. Don't price it $3000 higher than you will take. People won't even ask.

Correct pricing generates much better interest and will sell much faster everytime.

They are hardly a 'specialist' car. Specialist would be a Ferrari/Lambo. R33 GTR's are a dime a dozen.

Just because its kinda-limited, doesn't mean much to a buyer unless they are an enthusiast and you'll be waiting for a while for those kinds of people if it doesn't sell right away.

Most important thing - Price it correctly.

Don't dream on about some unrealistic price, you'll see a dozen and then some cars listed on carsales.com.au (and various other sites) that are far too high for what they are.

:D Yes , I do agree .

Cheers for the advice guys - much appreciated!

Have listed it on car sales, will see how it goes! :P

If it had been the factory dark blue i would've snapped your arm off for it!

  • 1 month later...

Just an update to this thread!

Car sales premium ads definately do work.

The car sold in less than two weeks to the first genuine buyer that called, and I had 3 others lined up for if the deal fell through! :cool:

Edited by KR4-GTR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I will rebutt this and the preceding point from Dose....but without doing any calcs to demonstrate anything and without knowing that I am right or wrong. But... The flow capacity of a fluid transfer system is not limited by the smallest orifice or section of conduit in that system, unless it is drastically smaller than the rest of the system. OK, I use the word drastically perhaps with too much emphasis, but let's drill down on what I really mean. The flow capacity of the system is the result of the sum of the restrictions of the entire system. So, to make an extreme example, if you have a network with 3" pipe everywhere (and let's say a total length of only a few metres) and that 12mm ID restriction of the oil filter connection being the obvious restriction, then for any given amount of pressure available, the vast majority of all the pressure drop in the system is going to occur in the 12mm restriction. But.... increase the length of the 3" pipeline to, say 1000m, and suddenly the pipe pressure loss will likely add up to either be in the same order of magnitude, possibly even exceeding that of the 12mm restriction. Now the 12mm restriction starts to matter less. Translate this to the actual engine, actual oil cooler hose sizing, etc etc, and perhaps: The pressure loss caused by flowing through the narrow section (being the 12mm oil filter port, and perhaps any internal engine oil flow pathways associated with it) is a certain number. The pressure loss through, say, -12 hoses out to the cooler and back is negligible, but The pressure loss through -10 hoses out to the cooler, at the exact same length as the above, starts to become a decent fraction of the loss through the 12mm stuff at the filter port. Maybe even it starts to exceed it. I could actually do these calcs if I knew 1) how much oil was actually flowing in the line, 2) gave enough of a f**k to do things that I hate doing for work, voluntarily for a hypothetical discussion. Anyway - I reiterate. It's not the narrowest port that necessarily determines how much it can all flow. It is the sum. A long enough length of seemingly fat enough pipe can still cause more loss than a semmingly dominant small bore restriction.
    • To pick up what Dose is putting down. Not a lot of point running a huge hose if the motor is still restricted to the smaller size... It's only capable of flowing so much at that point...   *Waits for GTSBoy to come in and bring in the technicalities of length of pipe, and additional restriction from wall friction etc etc*
    • Hooley Dooley these things have some history! If i sell them they will need a certificate of providence to prove they have been in the hands of verified RB20 royalty! They have been stored in a plastic tub, away from sunlight and moisture. They are in mint condition. And they will stay that way, as i have sprung the money for a set of shockworks coilovers. I'm just working on getting them in at the moment, after rebushing the rear of the car, and while the subframe was out i welded in the GKtech reinforcement bracing as well.  They will get a workout at Ararat King of The Hill in November. I ran 48s on the short course there a few months ago, and i am hoping with new bushes and shocks in the rear i can launch a bit harder. There was a fair bit of axle tramp when i tried too hard off the line. a few of the corners had dips mid way which also made the car feel a bit unsettled, hopefully this will help there too.   
    • Food for thought, the stock oil filter thread is a 3/4-16 UNF, which has an ID of about 10 to 12mm (according to ChatGPT lol). Now compare than to an 10AN, which has an ID of about 14mm (Raceworks is 14.2mm, Speed flow is 14.27mm).  
    • Yep, totally get that. However hooking in for Generator back up is only a few hundred bucks for the wiring. You could put a couple of those in (for different circuits explicitly) and run a couple of baby generators. Bonus, you can balance them across different circuits, and now have backups in your backup. I'm looking at buying places that won't even have water etc, and I don't mind the idea of getting off the electric grid either, even with everything you've said. This country already has enough power outages that even the mains grid isn't that reliable anymore. I do agree though on spending a bit more to get better gear, and to add some extra redundancy in to the system too.
×
×
  • Create New...