Jump to content
SAU Community

Condensation In My Headlights =s


dozey05
 Share

Recommended Posts

You need to remove the headlight and find the leak and seal it or else it's just going to reoccur.

As far as getting rid of what's in there, your best option is more than likely going to be to go for a night cruise so your headlights are on for enough time to evaporate the condensation that's in there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

Mine's doing the same thing, if I remember someone told me it was cos my front bumper was sagging which made the seal not fit as it should or something ..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

check on the top of the headlight, there should be a rubber seal near the indicator side, mine wasn't sealed properly as i can pry it out with my fingers and it exposes a hole to the insides, i believ this is where my headlights fog up/get cloudy from.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

check on the top of the headlight, there should be a rubber seal near the indicator side, mine wasn't sealed properly as i can pry it out with my fingers and it exposes a hole to the insides, i believ this is where my headlights fog up/get cloudy from.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

My R34's headlights have been like this since I got it from import, but they seem to have a murky type of film on the inside of the glass. Does anybody know if the light housing and the glass separates? ...Is there a way of cleaning it out?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My R34's headlights have been like this since I got it from import, but they seem to have a murky type of film on the inside of the glass. Does anybody know if the light housing and the glass separates? ...Is there a way of cleaning it out?

It does, but you have to heat it up in an oven or with a heatgun to soften the sealer, then pry it apart. Depends how game you are.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It does, but you have to heat it up in an oven or with a heatgun to soften the sealer, then pry it apart. Depends how game you are.

hhmmm, that sounds a bit of a challenge. What would i use to re-seal them?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

black silicon!

google how to remove supra headlights and there are few tutorials on the internet to do it.

I know it might sound simple, but i don't want to just do something blindly, thanks dori34!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i did mine, a few times actually..:D

it wouldnt fit in my oven and i wouldnt recomend it anyway

what i did was buy a 20$ heat gun form bunnings..the you just keep running it all around the seal for 10 minutes or so with out getting to close to melt the light of course..just keep it moving and get all the silicon very warm..

Then when its all warm, concentrate on one end, the inside end (where the grill is) is best, warm it real hot then just hold the light between your feet and pry that end apart .do not try to pry the whole lot at once just do the end

When you have opened one end work your way around heating a section and pulling it apart..should take 3 or 4 turns and the whole cover will be off.

it really isnt too hard, but it takes patience, dont try force it apart, if the silicon is hot enough it will pry apart without too much effort..once the seal is cracked its easy

Too put it back together just reheat the silicon and stick it back together you don't really need to put new silicon in..

you can also use the heatgun to dry the condensation, but dont get too close..i made that mistake once and your light goes from fine too f**ked in about 3 second..

..im glad I read this thread cause its done it again so maybe its that little rubber hose causing my problems.. :thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i did mine, a few times actually..:D

it wouldnt fit in my oven and i wouldnt recomend it anyway

what i did was buy a 20$ heat gun form bunnings..the you just keep running it all around the seal for 10 minutes or so with out getting to close to melt the light of course..just keep it moving and get all the silicon very warm..

Then when its all warm, concentrate on one end, the inside end (where the grill is) is best, warm it real hot then just hold the light between your feet and pry that end apart .do not try to pry the whole lot at once just do the end

When you have opened one end work your way around heating a section and pulling it apart..should take 3 or 4 turns and the whole cover will be off.

it really isnt too hard, but it takes patience, dont try force it apart, if the silicon is hot enough it will pry apart without too much effort..once the seal is cracked its easy

Too put it back together just reheat the silicon and stick it back together you don't really need to put new silicon in..

you can also use the heatgun to dry the condensation, but dont get too close..i made that mistake once and your light goes from fine too f**ked in about 3 second..

..im glad I read this thread cause its done it again so maybe its that little rubber hose causing my problems.. :thumbsup:

hmm sounds easy enough .. but knowing me, i'll probably heat the glass, pry it off, shatter everywhere and in my eyes lol

will defs be giving this a go though, cheers for the info Artz!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i did mine, a few times actually..:D

it wouldnt fit in my oven and i wouldnt recomend it anyway

what i did was buy a 20$ heat gun form bunnings..the you just keep running it all around the seal for 10 minutes or so with out getting to close to melt the light of course..just keep it moving and get all the silicon very warm..

Then when its all warm, concentrate on one end, the inside end (where the grill is) is best, warm it real hot then just hold the light between your feet and pry that end apart .do not try to pry the whole lot at once just do the end

When you have opened one end work your way around heating a section and pulling it apart..should take 3 or 4 turns and the whole cover will be off.

it really isnt too hard, but it takes patience, dont try force it apart, if the silicon is hot enough it will pry apart without too much effort..once the seal is cracked its easy

Too put it back together just reheat the silicon and stick it back together you don't really need to put new silicon in..

you can also use the heatgun to dry the condensation, but dont get too close..i made that mistake once and your light goes from fine too f**ked in about 3 second..

..im glad I read this thread cause its done it again so maybe its that little rubber hose causing my problems.. :thumbsup:

Thanx ARTZ, I'll swallow my fears of the unknown and have a go at it, might try to get some pix to post for everybody else

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I know a some people lights are real bad on the inside, but sometimes u might be suprised at how dirty/foggy the outsides are.

In my pic i left the bottom left corner dirty for you to see the difference, I clean mine once in a while with Autosol. comes up beautiful! Def worth a try before pulling things apart. It works good on foggy looking indicators too:)

IMG_2282.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Trail braking done right, should have the rear unsettled, such that you're actually turning the car by a noticeable amount WITH the brakes, and hence noticeably less steering input.
    • No you don't. Just no more driving in the wet, and clean your window manually before you drive
    • I'm not sure if they tick your boxes, but Haltech would be my pick. I'm an Adaptronic guy from way back, and Haltech acquired Adaptronic to basically get Andy, AND his IP on how he does things like fuel modelling etc.
    • Just on this, as there's a huge issue in your assumption Dose.   The logic you've given, is the same logic old school NA guys give for "needing back pressure" in an exhaust. If you free up an exhaust system, and keep injecting the same fuel in etc, at the same timing, you'll typically drop power. Freeing the exhaust will often make an engine want a little bit more timing, and even sometimes a little more fuel, but then it'll make even more power.   There's many mods people do and "get no extra power" when running a comparison on the same tune. Imagine a car tuned for 91, but now we say put 98 in it, see no difference. But as we now have 98 fuel, you can run more timing, and make more power, as the 91 was knock limited.   So just be very wary in your claim of "don't retune it and do a back to back and you'll see". The correct approach would be tune the car with stock manifold, swap the manifold to aftermarket, and retune it again. But no one wants to do that, and all the results we get are "this was stock, and this is manifold changed and tuned" and people put it all down as just the tune doing it.
    • Unplug ECU. Unplug TPS. Unplug boost pressure sensor. Now, all the wires, placing your ground (black) multimeter lead at the ECU end, measure resistance of the 5V line at the boost sensor plug. Then do the same to the TPS plug. Then do the same for all the other wires that relate to the TPS, or boost sensor.   All of your measurements should be very very low. You're looking to see if wiring is out of wack here.   Secondly, from memory on the R33 (not a neo motor, so I'm assuming an r34) the ground wire for the TPS and boost sensor are NOT equal to ground of the car/battery. IE, DO NOT connect ground of the sensor to the engine/body of car. You'll get a ground loop, and/or potentially screw shit up. In electronics, ground for a circuit, is not necessarily equal to ground of another circuit.   So this leads me to ask, when measuring your 5V, how are you getting 1.5V? Where are your multimeter leads touching for both the red and black lead on the multimeter?   If you're measuring power on the sensor wire, and putting ground on the car chassis or negative battery terminal, that could be all of your issues in "getting 1.5v". Electronics engineers can do some funky stuff with circuits, and when both sensors are on, it's enough laid to alter how the ECU is functioning.
×
×
  • Create New...