Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all , the elusive GT3037/GT3076R 52T is in the bag and I'm going to need to start gathering fitting bits .

The thing I haven't seen mentioned is the air inlet pipe that runs between the compressor housings snout and the std or Z32 AFM . Does anyone make them preferably in aluminium and with the extra fittings for the recirc plumbing etc ?

Also do people usually buy longer studs to bolt them up on the std exhaust manifold ?

I tried searching first and started into Lithium's and Mafias threads but don't have time to read right through them .

Also Cubes you have mentioned a bell mouthed dump pipe design for the Garrett GT30 IW turbine housings outlet . I;m curious to know if it differs from the "shell back" types some use up in QLD .

The pics are of my turbo and a HKS Pro S kits air inlet pipe .

Thanks all , cheers Adrian .

post-9594-1252469817_thumb.jpg

Are you running a POD?

I'll assume you are, and then you are running a CAI setup... to which its probably best to go custom.

Something that puts the AFM as far as possible from the turbo inlet :blush:

Then you'll find custom - most dont allow for a stock airbox (which you might find is ok)

GTR airboxes regularly run well into the 300rwkw range, almost 400 in a few cases i know of...

Perhaps stick a GTR one in (if there is some way to adapt?)

i made up my own intake pipe with a bit of 100mm pipe with a 45 bend in it. used a 100-80mm silicone reducer/joiner to clamp the afm onto it and bought a couple random fittings from enzed for the Bov plumback and pcv. cheap and works perfectly

Lithiums is a 4" stainless pipe custom made AFAIK, but he is not using AFM.

And i also believe he has a spacer between the manifold and turbo, so yeah id say longer studs would be a go. Best bet would be to PM him. He loves to talk Turbo :)

Cubes you have mentioned a bell mouthed dump pipe design for the Garrett GT30 IW turbine housings outlet . I;m curious to know if it differs from the "shell back" types some use up in QLD .

The Garrett style housing does not necessitate a shellback style dump, whereas the HKS one does. Doing either a divorced pipe off the turbine, or a bellmouth for that Garrett housing would be relatively simple. I've only seen one other example of that HKS style, and it came from HKS.

i made up my own intake pipe with a bit of 100mm pipe with a 45 bend in it. used a 100-80mm silicone reducer/joiner to clamp the afm onto it and bought a couple random fittings from enzed for the Bov plumback and pcv. cheap and works perfectly

Jonno do you have any pics of your inlet pipe to post up? Also interested to know if yours suffers from any stalling issues?

90deg Mandrel 3" pipe + 45deg Mandrel 3" pipe = Custom intake pipe that works with the airbox, I made one the other day.

A bit of chopping, a 3-4" reducer and a 3" sleeve. Just chop the ends off the bov recirc and rocker breather pipes, weld them onto the intake pipe and join with rubber.

90deg Mandrel 3" pipe + 45deg Mandrel 3" pipe = Custom intake pipe that works with the airbox, I made one the other day.

A bit of chopping, a 3-4" reducer and a 3" sleeve. Just chop the ends off the bov recirc and rocker breather pipes, weld them onto the intake pipe and join with rubber.

Femno do you have any pics of your pipe ? Also Stainless to prevent corrosion or powder coated mild steel ?

This stalling business , would it have anything to do with the inlet pipe being 4"/100mm to suit the compressor housings boss and reducing to say 3"/76mm close to the mass airflow meter ?

I'm just wondering if having it 3" from the AFM to just before the turbo and stepping up to 4" a little before the turbo would be better . The AFM sets the basic size and I'm not sure if the increased volume (and effects on pressure) downstream of the AFM would have side effects such as the air speed almost stopping in a return to idle situation .

Looking at it from the turbos perspective the compressors inducer is ~ 57mm (56T) and its only the inlets bell mouth insert (if you have the HKS style one) and the diameter of the outer shroud that takes it up to 4"/100mm .

Interestingly one version of the GT3037 Pro S's port shrouded inlet has a 90mm outer shroud and I don't think they suffer any power loss up to an advertised 470 PS . 90mm is a tad over 3 1/2 inches .

From memory non port shrouded T04E compressor housings are 70mm (OD) on the inlet boss so the ID of 3" tube would still be a little larger than that . If you're still not happy with that then 3 1/4 would take the ID up to somewhere around 78mm .

Just to give a bit of an idea of the cross sectional difference I crunched the numbers for 100 90 80 and 76mm .

Expressed as centimeters it looks like this

100mm/10cm Pi x r squared = 78.53 cm square .

90mm/9cm Pi x r squared = 62.62 cm square .

80mm/8cm Pi x r squared = 50.26 cm square .

76mm/7.6 cm Pi x r squared = 45.36 cm square .

It shows more than a 50% increase in area from 80mm to 100mm and once you start to look at it in say a 30 cm long duct and cubic cm's the difference would be ~ 2356cc vs 1508cc . Possibly enough of a difference with the lower volume duct to keep the MAF awake .

Later , cheers A .

Edited by discopotato03
Jonno do you have any pics of your inlet pipe to post up? Also interested to know if yours suffers from any stalling issues?

has never caused me any troubles, just made sure it was all clamped nice and tight and havent touched it since

couple of crappy pics, didnt take any before i put it in unfortunately

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd251/J...17012009055.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd251/J...22012009058.jpg

Edited by JonnoHR31

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...