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Time For A Rear End Upgrade, What's The Diff?

darrinspencer

By darrinspencer,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

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darrinspencer Grand Master

darrinspencer

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Hopefully tomorrow I will have secured a complete series 2 Stagea manual cradle.

Should solve my problem.

Just need to buy new rear forked shocks. It is a shame I just put in a set of new bilsteins in 200k's old. I am sure someone will want them

darrinspencer Grand Master

darrinspencer

Posted
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seems pointless to me? you could run an s14/15 frame and keep your current struts?

I loose $100 on a pair of struts, but gain bigger drive shafts and mechancial lsd

Not too sure if I will break 5 bolt R33 gtst shafts, but not too keen to find out and have to spend more later buying the right gear

darrinspencer Grand Master

darrinspencer

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if ur interested i got a pair of stock rs4s rear shocks and springs layin around. u can have cheap if u want em. PM me

Thanks, but I have new bilsteins up front as well, plus need to be height adjustable.

Might sell the complete f & r bilsteins, I find them too stiff. Preferred the Teins I had before

  • 5 months later...
darrinspencer Grand Master

darrinspencer

Posted
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I thought I would post an update.

I had 3 reasons to change my rear to a manual/260rs version

1. My rear cradle was a bit rusty. Could have fixed it but could not be bothered

2. To reduce the rear track by 50mm to match the front end so I can run the same offset wheels front to rear

3. Fit the larger diameter 6x1 bolt drive shafts and mechanical lsd to handle the power upgrades.

So I bought a manual rear end out of a wrecked stagea.

When I got around to changing it over, I discovered that my car, originally a series 2 auto, had the bigger drive shafts.

Basically it is the same as the manual rear end, but is 50mm wider in track.

It had the 6x1 bolt half shafts. The tail shaft is also alot heavy than the standard auto version.

I will also have to check the size if the bearings in the rear hubs as I know GTR's have bigger ones than the gtst version

Not sure if the auto diff is mechanical, but could be?

So I assume this rear end was a factory option?

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

Have you run your vin through fast before, and checked the options? I know a LSD rear end was an option for the S2 auto's, perhaps this also meant the stronger tail & drive shafts were used to go with it. You may have the LSD option.

  • 2 years later...
  • 2 years later...
  • 5 weeks later...
fmlycar Proficient

fmlycar

Posted
Posted

R34 non hicas craddle and half shafts bolted straight in and wheel alignment without any issues. S1 c34 converted to manual. Wheels that went in were 18x9.5 +12 with a 235/40/18 tyres. Has the slightest amount of poke on the front and rears and near on flush

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...
GroceryZilla Apprentice

GroceryZilla

Posted
Posted
I thought I would post an update.
I had 3 reasons to change my rear to a manual/260rs version
1. My rear cradle was a bit rusty. Could have fixed it but could not be bothered
2. To reduce the rear track by 50mm to match the front end so I can run the same offset wheels front to rear
3. Fit the larger diameter 6x1 bolt drive shafts and mechanical lsd to handle the power upgrades.
So I bought a manual rear end out of a wrecked stagea.
When I got around to changing it over, I discovered that my car, originally a series 2 auto, had the bigger drive shafts.
Basically it is the same as the manual rear end, but is 50mm wider in track.
It had the 6x1 bolt half shafts. The tail shaft is also alot heavy than the standard auto version.
I will also have to check the size if the bearings in the rear hubs as I know GTR's have bigger ones than the gtst version
Not sure if the auto diff is mechanical, but could be?
So I assume this rear end was a factory option?




So I'm looking to change over to a complete 33gtr rear end. Will there be any issues I run into at all?
Getting a new set of coilovers also so I'll be able to just get rears suit 33gtr.

I'm thinking entire rear so I can fit my wheels without doing flares and while only running -2° camber, changes shafts and diff which was my initial plan anyway.
Car is s1, wheels are 19x10.5+18 SSRs

d4f0a4538a15f3f898ca2f148971a28b.jpg
Excuse my primed bonnet [emoji23]
GroceryZilla Apprentice

GroceryZilla

Posted
Posted
I got an R32GTR rear - I think you may need to remount the Attessa unit.
2014-02-02181000_zpsf6f87731.jpg


The master unit?
How did you go fitting 32gtr rear subframe? Offset spacers or bolt up?
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, GroceryZilla said:

 


The master unit?
How did you go fitting 32gtr rear subframe? Offset spacers or bolt up?

 

Sorry can't help you with the nitty gritty because I got my local RB guru to do it on a hoist in his workshop. All I know is that the attessa pump etc had to be relocated and I had to chase round for 6 x 1 axles of various lengths (different left and right).

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