Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

the Wife generously came to pick me up from the station last night and when we got ready to head home tadaaaa... nothing....

All lights work, connections checked and cleaned, jump started, disconnected the ECU and re-connected, checked all connections to SAFC, banged the alternator, check fuses in engine bay and inside......

turn the key and accessories light up normally but there is no clicking over..... like there’s no power to the starter or something.... checked that too.

I’m completely stumped....

the car has been driving perfectly for ages and just yesterday my wife drive it on many short distance trips without issues....

this happened once before when I initially installed the SAFC and SITC but then when the ecu was disconnected and reconnected it was fine ....

it sux as its our only car ATM.......

any thoughts or other checks i can do???

thanks in advance

Ian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/287337-s1-not-starting-at-all/
Share on other sites

you say you bashed the alternator, did you think to tap the starter motor??

can you hear a 'click' when you turn the key?? if not, its probably the solenoid on the starter. if you can, its more than likely the starter itself........

actually thats a good point! if it WAS automatic, and its now manual (for whatever reason) then the starter inhibitor might be faulty. as in the wire bridging what used to be a switch, is now not working

you say you bashed the alternator, did you think to tap the starter motor??

can you hear a 'click' when you turn the key?? if not, its probably the solenoid on the starter. if you can, its more than likely the starter itself........

Thanks for the reply... probably should have mentioned that i did hit the starter.....Not had :)

there is no click when the key is turned.....

long shot but in knocked off the solinoid wire to my starter motor.. same symtoms as u said... check that, is there any way to test if its getting power easy???

it was all in place but i have to admit i probably could have paid more attention to that... will do so tonight.

i just dont get how it just died after been turned off for less than 10 minutes.....

maybe try using a jumper lead from the positive battery terminal to the positive terminal of the starter, see if it kicks over.......

if you can hear a click, its either a wiring issue, or your starter is shagged. and yes they can just stop working!

maybe try using a jumper lead from the positive battery terminal to the positive terminal of the starter, see if it kicks over.......

Unless you have a quality surge protector fitted, I would not recommend doing this one. I have seen the ECU in a commonwhore go up in smoke trying this jobbie. Not saying it WILL happen, but there is a risk.

Make sure it is not in "D"rive when you turn the key?

Double checked that.

Unless you have a quality surge protector fitted, I would not recommend doing this one. I have seen the ECU in a commonwhore go up in smoke trying this jobbie. Not saying it WILL happen, but there is a risk.

i had though about it but wasnt game enough

Damn: the flux capacitor requires 1.21GW of power to function... just get some plutonium...

...Or fit a Mr. Fusion

LOL

well i got it started....

didnt do anything really.... jiggled the loom at ecu and gave the starter another tap....

drove it and got back home switched the car off turned it back on and let it run for a bit and then off again....

then suprise it wouldnt start again..... did exactly what i did before (loom and starter) nothing

F*$K

My R31 did something very similar.

Would start when cold, but would not when warm (just after a drive or in the warmer months).

I used to get it started by shorting out the starter motor with a long screwdriver.

Worked every time.

My old R31 used to do this randomly, (had the hitachi starter not the bosch) turned out when I stripped the starter, one brush (out of four) was worn more than the others, and would occasionally juuust not be in contact with the comm.

Would start perfectly 50 times, then not, start perfectly for ages then not. Was a major pain, couldn't let my g/f drive it cos it might strand her. Four new brushes (I just took the brush holder to an auto elec, as the leads are soldered in place, didn't have a big enough soldering iron) $45 later, problem solved.

Chased this issue for at least 4 months, was ready to burn it... Good luck.

Well i have been doing the screwdriver thing all weekend..... so its definately starter solenoid.

Some random dude helped out the wife on friday and say it was "the starter solenoid valve".

Same boat

so anyone had to relpace a solenoid before??? same as R33 i would assume??

hard to get at your local supercrap or repco??

Apologies for the questions above… was a bit lazy should have assumed the starter was the same across the RB series.

Well yesterday I though id attack the starter and try to fix the solenoid…. One of the most traumatic experiences ever….

Man it’s a pain to even get the starter off….

Anyway I got the solenoid off and have all contact points a clean and re-soldered it…. Took about 2.5 hours to get it back on but it works now…..

Haven’t had an issue yet …… let’s hope it stays that way

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
×
×
  • Create New...