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Has anybody got a standard battery for an R34? Ive got electrical problems which i think is a f**ked battery, just wanted to see if somebody could lend me their battery to see if it fixes the problem? Can drive to you and try it out at your place, don't need to take it anywhere, just want to try out a standard R34 battery before i go buy a new one...

Has anybody got a standard battery for an R34? Ive got electrical problems which i think is a f**ked battery, just wanted to see if somebody could lend me their battery to see if it fixes the problem? Can drive to you and try it out at your place, don't need to take it anywhere, just want to try out a standard R34 battery before i go buy a new one...

Tried connecting to another vehicle w/ jumper cables?

Tried connecting to another vehicle w/ jumper cables?

Nah, problems are things like my headlights and stereo turning off when i flick on my indicator, stereo turns off first time i put my foot on the brake after starting the car. Stereo always turns straight back on though. Its like there is a surge and things go into protection. There are problems with the car off too, like if i put my foot on the brake then the interior light goes really dim. And when i switch my car off the headlights instantly go out and all the other lights flicker and go dim. Voltmeter drops down to about 8

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    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
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