Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Matt, what a superb project and inspiring to say the least, regardless of how many times I read the topic. It's a absolute credit to you, a magnificent machine to be extremely proud of. Well done!

Butch

Matt, I just spent two plus hours reading about your R34 GTR build. Wow, words don't do it justice. Ben and Chris from Racepace, are the best. Just tell Ben what you want to achieve and let him decide what will be required and the parts to use.

I saw your car at Racepace last year while I was there for a few things. Your car was on the hoist. I thought to myself, Wow, I could eat my dinner off the undercarrage. This thing looked brand new. Hoses pipes, paint work, everything. Now after reading 17 pages, I know just how special it really is.

Well done.

i guess this is a question for Matt and other motorsport people in this thread.

Even though the bonnet is a genuine R Tune one, for track use... will a secondary bonnet restraint (i.e. bonnet pins) be needed? like for the SAU Vic club champ days or for the cams ls2 days?

some sprint days don't require it but others do... I would get bonnet pins for peace of mind, those lightweight hoods flip up very easily and can cause a surprising amount of damage... the flush mounted aerocatch ones are the way to go IMO, I think Jack (JAGR33) runs them

but if you don't want to drill holes in the bonnet you can always use a DIY strap made out of cable etc

Thank you everyone for following my build thread. I appreciate all your compliments.

With regards to bonnet restraint for motorsport events, I think it would be 'sacrilege' to the Nismo Gods to drill holes for bonnet latches on my R Tune bonnet; therefore my option I guess is to use DIY straps like what NickR33 suggested.

I have some more finishing touches to finalise before total completion of this build. I shall keep you posted.

Have to agree with Matt here, DO NOT DRILL HOLES IN A Z-TUNE BONNET WORTH $8K!!!!!

I do have the aerocatch pins on my bonnet, much neater and I don't slice my fingers anymore washing my car!!!!

i totally agree, but wasn't sure if CAMS people would say otherwise... nice to know the bonnet doesn't have to be "altered" - i probably wouldn't do a CAMS event if i had a gen bonnet and was told to put pins in... stuff that! :happy:

so how ah... you do you lash down a bonnet with a secondary restraint? i'm trying to think about it, but it seems like there are some accessibility issues (ie, a closed bonnet :D)

so the pins/aerocatch ones are put in as the most convenient way of going about a secondary restraint? sorry for going OT a bit

I could be wrong but the oem bonnet catch is the secondary restraint and the lock is the primary. I've explained this pretty badly but basically when you pull the bonnet release it opens up onto the catch.

That's the way the cams guys see it over here in the West.

that would mean you wouldn't have to do anything?

aaaahhh... i get how it all works now. The slack in the cable allows you to at least open it part way, and then you can uncatch it and open all the way. Then do the reverse on the way down. Right.

But for a CF bonnet (perhaps not applicable to the uber quality of Matt's one) does this still not address the possible flexing issue at speed? hence pins for a CF topped FRP bonnet would be the better choice because the restraint points are wide apart?

Sorry to be going OT Matt, but hopefully this is of some use to you if you ever decide to enter any CAMS events, etc :)

I could be wrong but the oem bonnet catch is the secondary restraint and the lock is the primary. I've explained this pretty badly but basically when you pull the bonnet release it opens up onto the catch.

That's the way the cams guys see it over here in the West.

some track days see it this way, others do not... that's why you always have to read the supp regs

SS8: they don't really flex at speed, even the cheapish one I had was fine... I put pins in it for a couple of reasons, one was to help it line up and sit flush, two was for extra insurance and three was because they look cool lol

I had the crappy sparco pins that as Jack mentioned get in the way when your cleaning the car and collect dirt etc... aerocatch flush ones are much better IMO

Well then...when mines down your way next I'll throw you the keys :)

LOL, your making out like I'm some expert!!! Although owning my car now for close to 8 years and driving numerous amounts of other GT-R's you do get a feel of what a 'good' GT-R is like compared to a 'great' one. Especially when driven in anger on the track.... :cool:

LOL, again my apologies if I made you uncomfortable in your car, could not help staying on the loud pedal and experiencing this fine work of machinery. It does feel heaps faster when being a passenger, your not in control and do not know what the car is about to do. I'm a bad passenger, so I know where your coming from.

And as I said on the day, your car in the hands of Jeremy Clarkson in a review on Top Gear would be interesting, he would definetly be pleasantly surprised. Especially how standard it looks under the bonnet and without telling him what modifications it has, would love to see the look on his face when giving it some stick for the first time.

Have been looking at prices on V-CAM, would be interesting to see what difference it would make on a 2.6 bottom end.... :D

One thing for sure it will make a big difference to the hip pocket.... :banana::banana:

Unbelievable car. Youve done the real-life version of buying all the stage 4 upgrades for a car on Gran Turismo!!

Two questions-

WTF DO YOU DO FOR A LIVING! and HOW THE F DO I GET IN ON IT?!?! haha, great work on the car, i really hope i see it soon in the flesh at a SAU event.

Well, if Tiger had a 'sex addiction', then I have a 'R34 modifying addiction'. I think I need to go to rehab and apologize to my wife as well!!!!!

Anyhow, enough BS. My beefy Autoselect strut brace finally arrived after ordering it 3 months ago.

Specs:

3 piece design (centre cross member with two mounts secured by heavy duty bolt)

Mounts wrap around turrets for maximum bracing

Billet T60 aluminum construction

Exquisite detail with 'AS' logo engraving

Polished aluminum finish on the top surface

Cross member measures 110mm to 90mm wide and 25mm thick

Weight 4.5kg. (Stock strut brace 3.5kg)

Can support my weight (78kg) with no bending at all.

The obligatory photo documentation:

dscf0339o.jpg

dscf0332a.jpg

dscf0333k.jpg

dscf0336xq.jpg

Installed - looks tough:

dscf0346l.jpg

dscf0351u.jpg

dscf0359yv.jpg

Fit is perfect! Wraps around strut towers better than stock or any other type of aftermarket strut brace

dscf0349v.jpg

dscf0348.jpg

dscf0347w.jpg

I have more stuff to come. Keep you guys posted.

That is one chunky strut brace!

Almost looks like it would need some extra bracing / bolting to the strut towers to take full advantage of said chunkyness.

How do you feel about drilling holes in your strut towers matt? :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...