Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As title states, when my car is boosting it sounds like squishing a rubber duck. it doesn't seem to feel any different but the high pitch sound is there.

-there is no smoke

-idle is normal

-have recently put in penrite 5w60 (track rated), 162,000kms on dash

Im sure i heard this while i was on the track today but when i left there was no squeal

Now when ever i boost it, it makes the sound i described.

What seems to be the problem?

Edit: after reading previous posts, yes the bolts are all still tight and the noise is definitely coming from the turbo itself. When i parked i got under the bonnet and revved it hard enough to make the turbo spin and the squeal is there. It is most definitely coming from the turbo area.

Edited by shaunzo101

all cooler piping is tight. no leaks. have also edited my post to mention that it is coming from the turbo as i could hear it when i revved the engine while i was under the bonnet. i think if it was the cooler piping there would be a performance difference, the performance hasn't seemed to change still feels normal just with high pitch squeal.

Edited by shaunzo101

I'm getting the same noise ..only under boost .. but I'm not sure where it's coming from as I didn't think you could get the turbo to spin up unless there is load.. Just like in your case performace seems to be normal

as someone said, it could be a manifold gasket, or a broken manifold stud (that is a pretty common thing). then you will only get the noise when it comes on boost as before that there isn't enough pressure to force the gap open and have it make the noise. just check that all the exhaust manifold studs are there and have nuts on them, and also try moving the turbo on the manifold (had that come loose on my 180sx)

i'm interested in this aswell.

lately while driving at the dead of night i notice the turbo making a soft squeaking sound under fairly generous boost.... ive been running 10psi on standard turbo for a year and i'm wondering if it means turbo is giving me warning to get a repacement ready

i really hope it's the manifold gasket that would be much cheaper, im about to go out to my car and look at it again while it's cold and take it for a drive to see what happens. i thought if it would be any gasket leak it would make like a tractor sound it usually does.

yeah you can make the turbo spin at idle but i had to rev it pretty hard.

I blew out part of the rubber gasket the sits in between the two halves of the inlet runners on my RB25. It happened under boost during a tune when the motor first went in. Sounded like a someone blowing on a gum leaf as soon as it came on boost. It was pretty easy to spot where it had blown out. Had to replace the all rubber gasket for one that was rubber and steel from a different series RB25 to make sure it didn't happen again instead of just poking it back in and tighening up the bolts again. Very fiddly job once the engine was in, bolts to pull the top half of the inlet runners were almost impossible to get to with motor still in the car. Not sure if its the same setup on RB20.

ive had the same problem for a couple months now to. no performance difference but when under load it sounds like a siren, like cops are behind me. alot worse on cold starts. also quite noticebly a different exhaust note. pretty sure i may have a few broken studs???? its just weird how there is no performance loss. wish i could pin point the problem beofre putting it in the shop so i dont get ripped

exhaust gasket leak is usually a bit more different sound. Intake manifold gasket u will experience random rough idle and random tiny backfires or just running like a pig depending how bad the leak is. Its either a tiny leak between compressor housing outlet and throttle body. Or if u are definitely hearing it from the turbo then it needs to be removed and balanced by a turbocharger specialist. I'm leaning more towards it being a balancing issue.

Sometimes it can fix itself up, we had the same issue on my brothers EVO VI, kept driving for months then one day it was gone! Turbo was pulled out last month for upgrade and it was fine so shaft/thrust play or signs it was on the way out.

i had this EXACT problem. Drove me fkn crazy. high pitched squealing under boost when engine warmed up

ended up being exhaust manifold gasket and 3 broken studs!

i had this EXACT problem. Drove me fkn crazy. high pitched squealing under boost when engine warmed up

ended up being exhaust manifold gasket and 3 broken studs!

+1 :P

exhaust gasket leak is usually a bit more different sound. Intake manifold gasket u will experience random rough idle and random tiny backfires or just running like a pig depending how bad the leak is. Its either a tiny leak between compressor housing outlet and throttle body. Or if u are definitely hearing it from the turbo then it needs to be removed and balanced by a turbocharger specialist. I'm leaning more towards it being a balancing issue.

Sometimes it can fix itself up, we had the same issue on my brothers EVO VI, kept driving for months then one day it was gone! Turbo was pulled out last month for upgrade and it was fine so shaft/thrust play or signs it was on the way out.

My idle is normal

Noise is definitely from turbo area

i had this EXACT problem. Drove me fkn crazy. high pitched squealing under boost when engine warmed up

ended up being exhaust manifold gasket and 3 broken studs!

Mine makes the sound cold and warm

I took it to an exhaust shop today and he noticed straight away there was a stud missing from the exhaust manifold. Not sure how many other studs are missing but at the moment im looking at buying new exhaust manifold gasket, cant seem to get one for less than $116 - same price at nissan dealership and kudos motorsports.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...