Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not sure which ones, but I know they're in the Superpro catalogue too 'cause I have some superpro caster bushes on mine. Only gave me a bit under 2 degrees though at maximum adjustment. If you need to know the part number I know a workshop you can call to find out...

Ah ok thanks Simon. Pity everything has to be pillowball; probably it'll wear out in no time and just start making more noise... would be just my luck. Might have to look for something compatible in the whiteline catalogue.

not so, I got IKEYA-FORMULA bush type ones, made in japan and expensive, but bush is easily replaceable with nissan one, http://www.nengun.com/ikeya-formula/tension-rod.

Ive always thought it wouldnt be too hard to convert the stock rods into adjustable ones by an engineer, ie cut, thread and rejoin with a hi-tensile turnbuckle, and be stronger than a lot of the rubbish out there.

I prefer the liquid filled OEM bushes, takes out the harshness of the road transmitted through the car, I drove with Nolathane castor bushes for about a week before ditching them for comfort.

I have some superpro bushes and at maximum adjustment, I only have 4 degrees on the passenger's side and 3.5 on the driver's. That's simply not enough - even my mate's VP commondoor wagon has about 7.5 stock.

Simon thanks a heap for that link to the adjustable bush ones - man there's a lot on Nengun which I haven't noticed before. It's somewhat reassuring that they have those listed as being specifically compatible with C34, and it's a special 4wd version so hopefully heavyduty. EXPENSIVE though. They are adjustable though, right?

I prefer the liquid filled OEM bushes, takes out the harshness of the road transmitted through the car, I drove with Nolathane castor bushes for about a week before ditching them for comfort.

Wow.... I found all the bushes(whiteline adjustable ones) that I added great, firmed the car up, it felt nice, NVH was fine, I guess it is a personal choice...

Guessing the lack of castor is due to the AWD setup Dave? The VP having more castor doesnt mean it is a better car to drive or that it has a superior suspension design does it?

Yes more castor provides greater straightline stability at high speed (downside is more stress on steering components at low speed e.g. parking). Thats why I got 2nd hand castor arms for about the same price as eccentric bushes - more adjustment for about the same money. Some Skylines specify 8 or 9deg castor... I am running 6 deg on my S1.

No I doubt it's a better car to drive :D But it is weird that we get so little, stock. Could be they were worried about the longevity of the front CV's (SK mentioned too much castor would be a bad thing... but I'm not sure how much 'too much' was... more than 10 degrees I think it was?).

Just wondering if those "Ikeya Formula" tension rods (the bush ones) on Nengun (http://www.nengun.com/ikeya-formula/tension-rod) are adjustable? The picture is so small it's hard to tell... but at the price they should be surely.

Oh yeah, and from what Simon said in post #7, I take it the bushes in them can be replaced with the original Nissan part when they wear?

Edited by DaveB
No I doubt it's a better car to drive :D But it is weird that we get so little, stock. Could be they were worried about the longevity of the front CV's (SK mentioned too much castor would be a bad thing... but I'm not sure how much 'too much' was... more than 10 degrees I think it was?).

Just wondering if those "Ikeya Formula" tension rods (the bush ones) on Nengun (http://www.nengun.com/ikeya-formula/tension-rod) are adjustable? The picture is so small it's hard to tell... but at the price they should be surely.

Oh yeah, and from what Simon said in post #7, I take it the bushes in them can be replaced with the original Nissan part when they wear?

It would be pulling on the CV's, threaded rods just dont sound safe too me :S

  • 4 months later...

bumping an old thread :happy:

so my S2 RS Four S was pulling a little to the LEFT, so i got a wheel alignment done

didn't fix the problem, so i take it back to the mechy and he says the caster arm is shot, and the FR wheel is in front of the FL wheel, thus pulling LEFT

they said a replacement caster arm plus install is $275

jousting sticks? or sound about right?

from reading the above, maybe i should just buy a 2nd hand (thicker?) caster arm (rod?) and get it installed?

what's the diff between caster arm, rod, bush etc.?

sorry for the newbness :D

replacement arm and install for $275 doesnt sound to bad....

Its not the arm that should be stuffed, more the bush itself. Have a look underneath to see how it looks. Have a search for other threads on this subject as I got solid adjustable castor bushes put in my about 2 months ago.

bumping an old thread :)

so my S2 RS Four S was pulling a little to the LEFT, so i got a wheel alignment done

didn't fix the problem, so i take it back to the mechy and he says the caster arm is shot, and the FR wheel is in front of the FL wheel, thus pulling LEFT

they said a replacement caster arm plus install is $275

jousting sticks? or sound about right?

from reading the above, maybe i should just buy a 2nd hand (thicker?) caster arm (rod?) and get it installed?

what's the diff between caster arm, rod, bush etc.?

sorry for the newbness :P

my car is doing exactly the same, the suspension mob near me said that the radius rod bushes are dead and my cradle is sitting crooked. he also said i should get a camber kit . im more confused then ever. they quoted new radius rod bushes, camber kit, wheel alignment and labour to be $726. can you please let me know what you end up doing and if it solves the problems. thanks

i got 2 wheel alignments im my rs four s before i read on here about castor . the done actually pull left they just follow camber bad . if you drive in the middle of the road itll go straight and if you drive on the wrong side of the road it will pull right . i put white line adjustable bushes (KCA332 $140 NZ R33gtr) in mine and got 4.5 on the left and 4 on the right and its good as . havent noticed and exxesive nvh as chook said

my car is doing exactly the same, the suspension mob near me said that the radius rod bushes are dead and my cradle is sitting crooked. he also said i should get a camber kit . im more confused then ever. they quoted new radius rod bushes, camber kit, wheel alignment and labour to be $726. can you please let me know what you end up doing and if it solves the problems. thanks

Well FYI, I had radius rod (castor) bushes and camber bushes supplied and fitted to my S2 for ~$450, which I considered a reasonable price. Plus a 4-wheel full alignment shouldn't be much more than $70.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
    • Welcome mate. Any pics? Even with a DE I'd be well happy if I had that as a 1st car. 
×
×
  • Create New...