Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

true about coilovers being pricey, but you can still get street ridable coilovers (they arent just for track) all depends on the spring rate/tube design

say you spend 300 on springs (if you can find king springs), + the labour to fit them might take it up somewhere around 600-700 (not sure on what sydney prices are for labour) then once your struts have a blow out & the other associated problems that go along with it, then replace your struts & fix those associated problems.. you're up near the 1000-1500 mark (labour inclusive)

to give you an idea - i was quoted 1200-1300 for king springs (30mm) & new struts fitted, for something that would have been a medioca ride, the same place suggested a set of coilovers they would do for 1600-1700 fitted - this is on a 4 door R33, basically told them i wanted the ride as comfortable as possible while still being able to drop the car and not have it bottom out over every shit peice of road up here in brisbane

nah pedders said they would do a 30mm drop for my r32 with springs provided and fitted for $350.

how is this?

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...at=0&page=1

coilovers for 1200...racing spec

what are you talking about??

you get MUCH better handling if your lower your car, springs or coilovers... you got a GTR but u got the intellect of a honda ricer. Oh, and about the smashed up shocks? Yeh, maybe in 20 years my shocks will go :P

Well cheers for that. In return for your nice words i have dug up that link about what happens to shocks. CLICK THIS. The pictures are missing so use your imagination. A warning tho, if you do make the effort to educate yourself you'll find it harder to shoot your mouth off, noobie style.

FYI I've spent a fair bit of my time on suspension setup;

- swapped out my TOO LOW old fixed height 10/8.5kg rate teins for adjustables which i RAISED to IMPROVE the handling, with 8.2/6.4kgs rate, corner weighted and aligned, zero toe, 2deg. neg camber front, 1.25 rear. The springs are probably still too stiff.

- noltec upper control arms

- adjustable radius rod bushes

- two sets of adjustable rear control arm bushes

- whiteline adjustable front and rear sway bars

- tomei hicas lock kit

- whiteline pineapples

The real question is, what's the main reason you want "superlow" springs? To make your car handle better? Or to look like a complete wank while you're being defected for 70mm clearance?

If it were the former, I dare say this thread would have a topic reading more like "Coilovers for R32 GTS-T - any recommendations?"

my 2c

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...