Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have done this more than a few times and have never had a bad result

the biggest gain i noticed was greatly reduced lag

the reasons i did it

most of the copy plenums needed as much work, some more than the standard one

less pipe work (obvious)

tidy up the eng bay

it worked for me.

but it would be interesting to see flow bench results

then again who ever does them will do them differently

so testing 1 does not mean all r good or bad

all that being said i m using a greddy copy on the thing i m building now

but it is for height and eng bay room issues

post-32345-1256533844_thumb.jpg

post-32345-1256533887_thumb.jpg

both afr and egt's will both be directly reflective affected of the temparature in the cylinder, otherwise you wont have the detonation

does anyone have one of these floating cut and shut plenums about....i am curios to test one?

come to think of it, i have a complete spare r33 inlet, i will make one and and test it by the end of the year...i have plenty on at the moment so it will have to take a back seat for the time being

you can get detonation even with a good AFR if the cylinder temps are too high (caused by either high coolant temps or too much timing). the missus used to have a datsun stanza and when the headgasket was on it's way out and the engine temp was getting a bit high, if you drove it hard and then pulled up and turned the key off it would keep running due to detonation caused by hot spots in the cylinders. with fuel injected cars you don't get that happening because once you turn the key off everything shuts off and it can't keep sucking fuel into the engine like with a carby.

KLR33 - i will do some flow testing of it. the entry, as long as they are all cut flush at the front, will generally give the same results, give or take a few

that is usually caused by excessive timing given the engines running condition, my brothers sigma used to do the same thing.

luckily with a fuel injected car, we are able to control a lot of it under all different conditions

KLR33 - i will do some flow testing of it. the entry, as long as they are all cut flush at the front, will generally give the same results, give or take a few

when u flow the modifyed one ,it would be good if u could test a standard one as well

for comparison

i and many others would be keen to see the results

not sure where u r located but if its in sydney i have standard 33 and 34 inlets u can borrow to flow

im in wollongong. i have a spare 33 which i have already done some testing with, but unfortunately the shop i done it with is no longer around and since a flow bench is like a dyno, i would prefer to do a comparison on the bench.

its on my to do list :thumbsup:

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...

by modiflying ur stock intake manifold to a front facing one you will lean out ur rear cylinders. one way u can tell is take it for a drive and pull the spark plugs out and u will see the first 3 cylinders will be black from to much fuel and the rear 3 cylinders will be white from lack of fuel.

one reason i got the Plazmaman Plenum kit on my old R32. not only cut down the turbo lag i also gained 15hp.

post-15174-1267860802_thumb.jpg

KLR33

seeing as you have doen this mod before, what did you end up doing with the coolant/air bleed that usuallu sit near the TB?

put it in the bin

didnt run water through the TB

if i need to bleed the coolant system just undo the small hose clamp

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Given you're running a 2.8 and my 2.5 is not really like for like, I suspect there could be a bit more timing you could give it. What is the kW yield per degree you're putting through it? Here's my E85 map to give you an idea, where it was I could still get another 3~4kW per degree thrown at it.  
    • It turns out that Setrab make a fan specifically for the oil cooler which is great and I've installed it with minimal swearing. I removed my 2x 12in push fans from the front of my aircon condenser and wired them into this. My main thermo fans kick on when I use the aircon anyway and would effectively already be working as puller fans through the condensor which is infront of the rad. The push fans (understandably) didn't really do much in the config they were previously in so now they're out. Now we're on to the "Oil fan doesn't really do much either!". Yes I'll duct it next if it does nothing in heavy use which it shouldn't. But hey, the object exists and fits great and is cool. Let me have this. The car is still in the "do my fittings leak oil now? do my wheels actually rub?" phase. I did a spirited drive on them and didn't hear or feel anything. Then I got back home and noticed there were grind marks on the inside of the rims, though I couldn't see where they were touching I got out the grinder and attacked the suspects. Note: I do not know how to use a grinder. Then I realised I had dragged my new rims across my concrete driveway before I did this drive. I didn't think I had damage at that time when I briefly looked...... but remembered this occurred after I did all the angle grinding. The grinding on the wheels in some very specific spots. It's not around the whole rim for example, which lines up with dragging it across concrete more than hitting a suspension component for even 1 full rotation. So everything is currently painted and taped up and I need to test it some more to see if it really IS rubbing, but from inside the car it doesn't feel like it is. In other news I attempted to do a before and after comparison of the heads/cam upgrade thing. Dynos lie, everything is in different measurements. Here is the data from the sandown back straight. Car go faster than before. Vroom vroom.
    • Here's my base ignition. +3 correction to redline when shooting water/meth which is always on. Looking at my old ignition table, I should be able to add 1-2 degree's next time I'm on the dyno.  Let me know your thoughts. 
    • Given what I know now - same haha, but this was 12 years ago with second hand 740cc Nismo injectors in my S15 daily, I was too busy hunting elsewhere for the issue to even look at the injectors, running through some cleaner was a happy coincidence haha
    • Not a terrible idea. But if I ever had concerns that my injectors were sufficiently dirty to be causing me a problem, they would be out of the engine and onto the actual injector cleaner/testing bench.
×
×
  • Create New...