Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

advancing the timing may have some benefit. if you advance the timing you will pick up power, however you don't want it to be pinging as that will lead to all sorts of trouble. i would start by checking the timing and making sure it is at least where it should be (isn't retarded below stock)

retarding the timing will give you no gain in performance at all. it will decrease performance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290614-timing/#findComment-4862023
Share on other sites

I would hardly call that almost standard. About the only thing on the outside of the engine you haven't changed is the exhaust manifold... (ok and the airflow meter)

Although it *can* be done with a stopwatch and a good ear for detonation, you probably aren't good enough to do that or you wouldn't have asked, I would take it to a dyno shop and get it done (along with whatever other tuning/expermenting you might need doing). Standard price appears to be $100-120 an hour, and for that you should be able to adjust fuel pressure, ignition timing, and cam timing (if you have adjustable gears) to get it spot on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290614-timing/#findComment-4862029
Share on other sites

i did have the timing advanced a little bit and it seemd that i couldnt boost my turbo over 10psi with the car shuddering at about 4500rpm even when hot!

do u guys have any idea if the timing would effect this or do i have another problem?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290614-timing/#findComment-4862736
Share on other sites

I would hardly call that almost standard. About the only thing on the outside of the engine you haven't changed is the exhaust manifold... (ok and the airflow meter)

Although it *can* be done with a stopwatch and a good ear for detonation, you probably aren't good enough to do that or you wouldn't have asked, I would take it to a dyno shop and get it done (along with whatever other tuning/expermenting you might need doing). Standard price appears to be $100-120 an hour, and for that you should be able to adjust fuel pressure, ignition timing, and cam timing (if you have adjustable gears) to get it spot on.

i would. bov isn't a performance mod. plugs are maintainence, pod isn't really much of mod either. so he has an exhaust, fmic and slightly bigger turbo. not exactly crazy mods.

and it isn't hard to adjust the timing safely. or at least put a timing light on it to see if it is at least set to the stock timing.

i did have the timing advanced a little bit and it seemd that i couldnt boost my turbo over 10psi with the car shuddering at about 4500rpm even when hot!

do u guys have any idea if the timing would effect this or do i have another problem?

the issue you are having could be that the car is leaning out or the coilpacks or ignitor aren't performing as well as they should, but i wouldn't put it down to the advanced timing. could also be that you are running the stock ecu and with the bigger turbo at that sort of boost level it isn't liking it too much. generally you can have the timing advanced to a point where it will ping it's arse off and it will still make decent power. does do the engine any good, but it does make you lose power the moment it starts pinging. but the problem only appears as you up the boost which makes me think it's either an issue with the ignition system not coping or a fuel issue. you could stick it on a dyno and get them to do a run and check the AFR's and see how they are to rule out the fuel side of things. to check the ignition side of things if you have a mate with coil packs in good condition then try putting them on and see what it does.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290614-timing/#findComment-4862795
Share on other sites

I would hardly call that almost standard. About the only thing on the outside of the engine you haven't changed is the exhaust manifold... (ok and the airflow meter)

Although it *can* be done with a stopwatch and a good ear for detonation, you probably aren't good enough to do that or you wouldn't have asked, I would take it to a dyno shop and get it done (along with whatever other tuning/expermenting you might need doing). Standard price appears to be $100-120 an hour, and for that you should be able to adjust fuel pressure, ignition timing, and cam timing (if you have adjustable gears) to get it spot on.

What is the stopwatch for?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290614-timing/#findComment-4863895
Share on other sites

adjusting fuel pressure on a stock car, with a stock ECU with a map that already runs ridiculously rich? ehh..

If you're tight and want some cheap power, go get a SAFC, borrow a mate's wideband and hire a dyno, pull a few runs on 3rd/4th gear and adjust/bend/tweak the A/F..

SAFC only bends the Air Flow Meter signal, but works quite well on a car that has minimal mods..

I had a RB20DET with a remap, and a SAFC to neaten up the A/F, works good for small mods.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290614-timing/#findComment-4864222
Share on other sites

stopwatch is to measure the performance gain. The ass dyno can easily be confused by lower bottom end torque feeling like a top end gain. A stopwatch makes sure that you are actually improving things.

And adjusting the fuel pressure does not neccessarily mean raising it. Lowering it is classed as an adjustment as well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290614-timing/#findComment-4864366
Share on other sites

i would. bov isn't a performance mod. plugs are maintainence, pod isn't really much of mod either. so he has an exhaust, fmic and slightly bigger turbo. not exactly crazy mods.

and it isn't hard to adjust the timing safely. or at least put a timing light on it to see if it is at least set to the stock timing.

the issue you are having could be that the car is leaning out or the coilpacks or ignitor aren't performing as well as they should, but i wouldn't put it down to the advanced timing. could also be that you are running the stock ecu and with the bigger turbo at that sort of boost level it isn't liking it too much. generally you can have the timing advanced to a point where it will ping it's arse off and it will still make decent power. does do the engine any good, but it does make you lose power the moment it starts pinging. but the problem only appears as you up the boost which makes me think it's either an issue with the ignition system not coping or a fuel issue. you could stick it on a dyno and get them to do a run and check the AFR's and see how they are to rule out the fuel side of things. to check the ignition side of things if you have a mate with coil packs in good condition then try putting them on and see what it does.

Sorry to jump in. i just read the above... So coilpacks that may not necessarily be causing any major stutters or missing, could still contribute significantly to detonation????

my 33 hates any increase in timing (pings its head of with minimal boost on stock turbo). Pulled timing back and ran 15 psi down it and no ping.... Doesnt miss or run lean though.... its got me f**ked...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290614-timing/#findComment-4864904
Share on other sites

the issue with advancing the timing is, the way you are doing it, it affects the whole tune

your engine can deal with more timing when its coming on boost and off boost

and this is typically where good gains can be had, but once its on full load, it cant take too much more

so if you backdial the cas to advance the timing it will shift the entire map, which means detonation city on max load

so you need either

1) a remap of your current tune

2) a copgyback device to advance the timing in certain areas

3) a standalone to tune as you like

with the right experience and skill and time you can make the car drive quiet differently

i was able to dial in +12 deg ignition timing in some areas on my map with my powerfc and some on-road tuning

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290614-timing/#findComment-4864946
Share on other sites

the issue with advancing the timing is, the way you are doing it, it affects the whole tune

your engine can deal with more timing when its coming on boost and off boost

and this is typically where good gains can be had, but once its on full load, it cant take too much more

so if you backdial the cas to advance the timing it will shift the entire map, which means detonation city on max load

so you need either

1) a remap of your current tune

2) a copgyback device to advance the timing in certain areas

3) a standalone to tune as you like

with the right experience and skill and time you can make the car drive quiet differently

i was able to dial in +12 deg ignition timing in some areas on my map with my powerfc and some on-road tuning

sorry mate i wasnt clear. Ive left this in the hands of tuners with whom i closely watched the process. Cars now got z32 ecu NISTUNE etc etc. The end result wasnt exactly what id expected.

200 rwkw on 14+ psi no ping on a 30 deg (with fmic, exhaust, filter etc) day with timing retarded. Apparently barely even standard. Id had that figure running 12psi, and generally much more responsive too, but under full load yeah it was pinging. Ive seen others do much better. its disappointing.. There must be an actual reason why without fobbing it off saying 'its a dead motor'... Coils and spark maybe. Made 160kw with no mods at all which was pretty healthy....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290614-timing/#findComment-4865037
Share on other sites

Easy to make a stopwatch reliable (maybe not accurate, but repeatable, which is all you are after for comparison), just practise.

The easiest way to make the car repeatable is to not time the launch. Ie go from idle to redline in second gear, but only time from 2000-6500 (assuming a 7000rpm redline). That way you don't have the effect of launching, and you know you are at full throttle the entire time (because there is no guessing as to the exact time in the run the throtte was floored and then lifted again).

You are also highly unikely to feel a gain in the 0.1 second region, which a stopwatch will reliably show.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290614-timing/#findComment-4866133
Share on other sites

200 rwkw on 14+ psi no ping on a 30 deg (with fmic, exhaust, filter etc) day with timing retarded. Apparently barely even standard. Id had that figure running 12psi, and generally much more responsive too, but under full load yeah it was pinging. Ive seen others do much better. its disappointing.. There must be an actual reason why without fobbing it off saying 'its a dead motor'... Coils and spark maybe. Made 160kw with no mods at all which was pretty healthy....

200rwkw is healthy for a standard turbo 25, usually anymore than that is just from happy dynos

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290614-timing/#findComment-4867353
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds good Hmm suppose the main thing is, how much do you care about this car? The filler doesn't make for a very good water barrier lol. If there was a tiny little bit of rust forming now, that in 3 to 5 years time becomes obvious under the paint (starts to bubble up), would it bother you? 
    • I already have the ability to datalog the voltage... what I can't do is correlate it to what the gauge is showing when I'm looking at the data at a later date. Or something like this. Except getting the oil to 125C+ involves me going 200+kmh at the track so you can imagine this is a little tricky unless I do something like note what the voltage is when I am at the top of 5th gear so I have a point to reference on. Drove car today. O2 still reading richer because hopefully not a leak instead of massive restriction I've introduced. Car really doesn't sound like a LS. It's quite strange. Pulled a bit of fuel out up top. This does potentially explain why my spark plugs looked like the car was running pretty over-rich. If I was tuning it to a ~12.7 which in reality was far richer than that in the past. It will be handy to have the dyno WB to compare my WB to to compare notes that's for sure. At this point I'm happy to just sit in the passenger seat and tune the thing given I've got about 7 million hours on the platform lol.
    • Yeah I understand you have to pay for an updated map or subscription service or something. But I can't even find a current map for Australia. My map is dated 2017, but didn't this car version still sell in Australia until 2021?   Also, just as an aside, the navigation system warns you of traffic incidences ahead.....why would they include that on a map they knew is not receiving live information. I am forever going to be warned of an incident that probably existed for 30 minutes 8 years ago.
    • Car has been sold and I am now selling leftover parts. Prices are non-negotiable as I will sell to my mechanic if it won't sell here. Prices are firm except for the Random Parts listed at the very bottom. All parts are genuine except for the S-Tune front bumper. Volk Racing TE37SL 19×10.5″ +12 5×114.3 pressed graphite with P-Zero 275 30 19 tyres [USED] $4,500 Wheels are in perfect condition, have been sitting in my garage for the past 6 years. Tyres still have 90% tread, but since they're now old, I would not recommend you drive hard on them. K-Sport Super Sport External Reservoir Coilovers (made to order) [NEW] $2,500 Front spring rate 14kg, Rear spring rate 7.5kg Fork Type. You can read all about it here (https://www.k-sportracing.com/product_detail.php?Key=12). I was going to start tracking the GTR, but never got around to it. Paid $3500 (after USD conversion and taxes). HKS Kansai Service Tower Bar [NEW] $500 Never fitted in the original Japanese box. R34 GTR S-Tune Fibreglass Bumper [NEW] $500 No mesh - No Box - No damage - just dusty. Nitto RB26 Clear Timing Cover [NEW] $50 Couldn't fit RB2630 due to bonnet clearance. HKS Piping Kit Special Type (BNR34) & Apexi Power Intake Air Filter Kit & Password JDM Adapter [USED] $1,000 Missing some rubber hoses and supports, but you get what you see. Nismo NE-1 Weldina Turbo Back Exhaust & Custom 3.5"straight pipe [USED] $1,000 Needs some love, but perfect for those who want to go back to OEM+. Bayside Blue Aluminium Vspec Bonnet/Hood [USED] $700 Came off my GTR. Unfortunately, the tips have been slightly ground down. It will need some repairing. Bride Low Max Super Seat Rails [USED] $350 The price is for both sides. Will post pictures when I get a chance. Random Parts [USED] - negotiable Standard rb26 cams (intake and exhaust) $10 Stock amber front indicators $10 Standard GTR bumper lower side grills $10 Stock amber side indicators $10 Nismo Sports Resetting ECU $50 Water reservoir $10 Stock airbox mouth $10 Stock fuel rail $10 Stock coilovers from R34 GTR Vspec $100 PM me which items you are interested in. I do work 9-5, so I will be responding daily at best. Best time for pick up is after 5 and before 7 on weekdays, or i can work something out on weekends. I will only accept cash or PayID. Pick up only - located Epping NSW area.
    • sensible choice....and all 32s should be in yellow
×
×
  • Create New...