Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all,

i recently bought my R34 GT25...has factory xenon headlights, but the xenon bulbs were changed during compliance, the xenon headlights are still there, just the bulb appears to be changed, got a couple of questions.

1) is there anyway to get hold of stock r34 xenon bulbs?

2) if not, how much are bulbs which have the same colour light as the stock xenons?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290630-xenon-lights/
Share on other sites

im not to sure what bulb is there atm. ill check after im home from work.

in regards to the ballast question, im not to sure what you mean? could you please go into detail? sorry for being a pain :P

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290630-xenon-lights/#findComment-4862392
Share on other sites

hid kit is easier to install.. as they installed a "spacer ring" in your light to hod the h1 bulb.. and hid kit works well (NYTSKY) can prob still supply you a kit.. but some think you get more glare from the HID as it was designed for the xenon.. myself am more than happy with the HID kit

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290630-xenon-lights/#findComment-4862444
Share on other sites

another one for a HID kit from NYTSKY, got an 8000k H1 Bosch HID kit through him for my 34, works a treat and easy to install

how does 8000k look...thats what i would want but ive heard they are too blue and attract a lot of unwanted attention??

got any pics by any chance of how they look @ night on your 34?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290630-xenon-lights/#findComment-4862579
Share on other sites

if i get the chance ill take some for you tonight, the bosch 8000k kit i got from NYTSKY isnt too blue at all, and gives a nice spread of light, and i can't say that i have ever been high beamed or anything for them being too bright either

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290630-xenon-lights/#findComment-4862728
Share on other sites

stock xenon bulbs are 4300k ... I put 6000k on mine as they have a slight blue tinge. 8000k is noticably bluish it's just that people get used to them and think they're not

not true, it varies with the manufacturer, i have seen some 8000k kits that are ridiculously blue, as for mine, i have asked people who have been driving in front of me, and i have looked from a distance myself, and they only have a tinge of blue.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290630-xenon-lights/#findComment-4863307
Share on other sites

+1, wanted to change mine to HID too but don't want the trouble of getting defected.

Yea, my mate has a full stock R34 with factory HID, on P's. He got pulled over by a cop one day and got questioned about his HID, he's like they are stock and came from factory. But the cop said to him, it doesn't matter, they aren't even meant to be on there, as they aren't self-adjusting.

So at the end, he got dicked for it lol.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290630-xenon-lights/#findComment-4869989
Share on other sites

Yea, my mate has a full stock R34 with factory HID, on P's. He got pulled over by a cop one day and got questioned about his HID, he's like they are stock and came from factory. But the cop said to him, it doesn't matter, they aren't even meant to be on there, as they aren't self-adjusting.

So at the end, he got dicked for it lol.

Not sure what you mean by self adjusting, but they can be dipped with the factory in car dial thingy near the coin slot, that said, i am aware that they are still illegal...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290630-xenon-lights/#findComment-4870171
Share on other sites

With the current volume of new cars with HID standard, it's not really being targeted anymore. Too hard basket.

Also HIDs are never 100% the correct colour when you first put them in, they change over about 300-500hours to get to the final temp colour they were advertised as.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290630-xenon-lights/#findComment-4870196
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...