Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i just answered your question in your other thread about std 33 coils. besides there have been many threads on this topic before. just use the search function..its your friend :P

infromation is there in the search functions, read it all, its stupidlly conflicting, several people say s2 has built in igniter and several people say s1 has built in igniter, no definitive answer, without looking from memory s2 has built in igniter, I think the r34 has built in aswell,

can anyone confirm diff between 33 s1 and s2 and r34, can u see the built in igniter,

infromation is there in the search functions, read it all, its stupidlly conflicting, several people say s2 has built in igniter and several people say s1 has built in igniter, no definitive answer, without looking from memory s2 has built in igniter, I think the r34 has built in aswell,

can anyone confirm diff between 33 s1 and s2 and r34, can u see the built in igniter,

what? clearly series 1's and 1.5's have one main ignition module. this goes for all earlier models on skyline e.g r32 rb26's.

from series 2, the igniters were built in. i dont think theres any series 1's with built in igniters.Im pretty sure there are none,unless theyre modified in some way?

actually series 1.5 generally have the s2 engines so will have the ignitor built into the coils. at least that is my experience with the s1.5 i had and all the other ones i have seen.

but it is extremely easy to tell whether the car has an external ignitor or not. look for a square unit at the back of the engine bay on the rocker cover with a plug on each side. if it has it then it takes s1 coils. if it has a plug but no box it takes s2 coils.

Yes my 1.5 (1995) has the series 2 running gear. To my knowledge all of them do, and I'm guessing only the earliest of them...if any...will have series 1 running gear.

As mad said, check towards the back of the spark plug cover...if there's a black box on there then you have series 1, if there's no black box there then you have series 2. Simple. Search the forum for pictures of said ignitor.

strange cause my missus has series 2 coils on her 94 line but i have series 1 coils on my 94.

hers has the mounting point for the main igniter but instead its just the plugs joined with no igniter. know what i mean? lol.

so is there any way of just plug and play with the diff coils?

Edited by SLY-25T
strange cause my missus has series 2 coils on her 94 line but i have series 1 coils on my 94.

hers has the mounting point for the main igniter but instead its just the plugs joined with no igniter. know what i mean? lol.

so is there any way of just plug and play with the diff coils?

there are possible reasons for a 94 model having s2 coils. it may have had an engine transplant, it may be a very late model 94 and just got the s2 engine, etc.

you may possibly be able to install s2 coils onto a s1 if you swap the whole ignition loom. not sure if the plugs at the back (where the ignitor usually is) are the same though

everyone says to search pics of series 1 and 2 coilpacks lol but i cant find none i need to know which one my car has in it lol all i know the car has ecr r33 on the compliance plate what does that mean? lol i dont say what month it was made in either lol any ideas/help?

not the best of pics but the coilpack cover (where it says 2500 NISSAN on top of motor) has a lil box on the back. in the pic its just above the BOV. If you zoom in its got a plug either side.

That one is the series 1 coilpack with an external ignitor.

Series 2 doesnt have this box as each coil has a built in ignitor.

post-53838-1254907064_thumb.jpg

Edited by SLY-25T
not the best of pics but the coilpack cover (where it says 2500 NISSAN on top of motor) has a lil box on the back. in the pic its just above the BOV. If you zoom in its got a plug either side.

That one is the series 1 coilpack with an external ignitor.

Series 2 doesnt have this box as each coil has a built in ignitor.

post-53838-1254907064_thumb.jpg

ok deff no little black box there hmm soo what does this mean? series 2 motor?

yer the coil pack are different 100 %! i changed mine yesterday

Look at the top of the motor and see if you got that little black box there. can i ask why are you changing them- miss fire?

make sure that you are sure its a coil pack before u spend too much cash on the wrong thing :P

let me know if you need a hand with it, cause i just went through it all and i'm not sure if it might be the leads too, but it has stopped missing.

There are quick diy fixes to the coils, refer to the sticky. Probably do that first, to make sure that its the actual coil

the colour of the sticker on the AFM

Are S2 AFM's pink label? Coz i got a 93 S1 and i got a pink label afm. does that make a difference to the readings, performance etc.?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...