Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Was good to finally see this thing in action :thumbsup: had followed it from the NEO days, was gunna come say hi but like i said you looked like you were pretty busy so i didnt interrupt :)

I'll make sure I do next time mate :) was awesome to finally see the beast anyhow!!! Your vid of the car back with the NEO and 38mm gate was serious inspiration lol..... Finally got tuned and can't keep the thing on the road, suspension shit itself, brakes shit em selves, clutch just shat itself lol.... Awesome so far lol

The stock nissan bottom end doesn't have any inherent weaknesses at the power levels most people run, it has the nissan seal of approval unlike many aftermarket rebuilds that grenade 5000kms later and it is also extremely cheap.

Imo almost all motors that do grenade are due to oiling issues be that starvation killing the bottom end, assembly issue (wrong clearances etc), limiter bashing unbalancing things or a tuning issue causing detonation via one of many ways killing the bearings and pistons.

So knowing this I don't know why everyone doesn't just go a stock untouched (unmolested) rb30 bottom end, chances are you will kill it from one of the reasons above well well before you destroy it due to high revs destroying the rod bolts/rods or destroy the pistons/bearings from just simply too much torque.

The stock nissan bottom end doesn't have any inherent weaknesses at the power levels most people run, it has the nissan seal of approval unlike many aftermarket rebuilds that grenade 5000kms later and it is also extremely cheap.

Imo almost all motors that do grenade are due to oiling issues be that starvation killing the bottom end, assembly issue (wrong clearances etc), limiter bashing unbalancing things or a tuning issue causing detonation via one of many ways killing the bearings and pistons.

So knowing this I don't know why everyone doesn't just go a stock untouched (unmolested) rb30 bottom end, chances are you will kill it from one of the reasons above well well before you destroy it due to high revs destroying the rod bolts/rods or destroy the pistons/bearings from just simply too much torque.

While I agree with you on the most part, keep in mind this is a drift car...

been going alright so far.. oil control has been settled for now with the use of an Accusump which works well... should have got one a long time ago.

stock NA RB30 bottom end has been proven to be reliable up until around the 600 hp mark.. fairly impressive really! obviously limiter bashing and drifting puts more strain then most of motors so we'll see how it goes.

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...