Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 14.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeah what I meant in that comment is replacing all three. Instead of having 2 or 3 gauges around your dash, just replace the cluster with something better

Can be done if you're willing to shell out the bucks

Writeoff has a very comprehensive set of gauges in his centre console. Maybe he can find you a pic if u ask nice.

He's running Defi's which as talbo said, arent cheap, but they do look gnarly in an over the top riced up way

-D

ah hah finally found them :P seen these on tv ages ago.

http://www.vintagecarradio.com/store/index.php?cPath=1

awesome for anyone restoring an old car and wants a half decent stereo without spoiling the classic look of their car

n wayne i dont think they are the same they look slightly diff. not 100% sure if its a gtr/gts thing or just they changed the 32 headlights over the years though.

Edited by Inline 6

well i just found out i should be getting my car back in December or January its been such a long wait i cant wait to test the t04z etc out on the worked 25/30 at mallala should be fun.

R32 GT-R and GTST share the same headlights yeah?

I need a drivers side one - MINT.

God damn insurance dogs...

No. However some GTSt's do have GTR lights (such as mine, and Chads) The GTSt lights dont have plastic flaps with holes to hold the GTR grille in. So really if they have these, you should be fine..

And going on to what Dan mentioned, the "R32 S1" lights are slightly different in appearance to "R32 S2" ones. So just take note of how they look around the projector area.

well i just found out i should be getting my car back in December or January its been such a long wait i cant wait to test the t04z etc out on the worked 25/30 at mallala should be fun.
whats she making Allan?

patience is a virtue! and ditto whats she making allan ? or not completely fin yet?

hey to all its been like 3 months since ive been on sau... or like 4-5 months since ive been to an event or cruise :P

car is on teh nom nom ... yeah it ate the crank key..... :) found out 3 months ago and havnt driven her since.. just sat inside her then and had a play with the pedals.... i miss being a couple inches off the ground and having extensive left foot exercise... worst thing is it makes sence that its been slowely dying for some time now.. and i think mallala was the final killer.. was never the same since then (6 months or so ago).

nearly finished paving the back carport so i can begin skinning my knuckles and getting to know my car even more.

by chance a few weeks ago mr lewis of lewis engines mt barker came into my work and purchased a very nice sandstone table off me and we got talking... looks like ill be having the privelage of a fully built rb26 when i can save enough coin.

on another note anyone after a pair of greddy t517z turbos with gasgets done 5000 kms approx for $2500

haha no worries mate.

yeah im planning on dropping the motor in on sunday, as Dale's bro in law needs the crane back, for

a long time by the sounds of it, poor bugger...

yeah if you cant grab them let me know, as ill be down south tomorrow and could possibly grab them??

i got an idea, how bout you bring them to me sunday and give me a hand?? :P

yer mitch, ill be there.

im gettin them tonite off the nug meister

as for you being down south, i'll be out near morgan most of the day haha, will arrange later on in the day to drop them to ya :).

sunday.......well if i wasnt workin on my shitboxes i would LOL

should be around the 380rwkw motor and manual box should be in 2way lsd is in nismo intake pump is in then theres the wiring of ecu etc so till it runs on the dyno im gonna say 370 to 380rwkw for now but i have to run her in yet so little hard to say.

patience is a virtue! and ditto whats she making allan ? or not completely fin yet?

hey to all its been like 3 months since ive been on sau... or like 4-5 months since ive been to an event or cruise :P

car is on teh nom nom ... yeah it ate the crank key..... :) found out 3 months ago and havnt driven her since.. just sat inside her then and had a play with the pedals.... i miss being a couple inches off the ground and having extensive left foot exercise... worst thing is it makes sence that its been slowely dying for some time now.. and i think mallala was the final killer.. was never the same since then (6 months or so ago).

nearly finished paving the back carport so i can begin skinning my knuckles and getting to know my car even more.

by chance a few weeks ago mr lewis of lewis engines mt barker came into my work and purchased a very nice sandstone table off me and we got talking... looks like ill be having the privelage of a fully built rb26 when i can save enough coin.

on another note anyone after a pair of greddy t517z turbos with gasgets done 5000 kms approx for $2500

So you were trying to sell me a munched out GTR for $28k?

should be around the 380rwkw motor and manual box is in 2way lsd is in nismo intake pump is in then theres the wiring of ecu etc so till it runs on the dyno im gonna say 370 to 380rwkw for now but i have to run her in yet so little hard to say.

probably using a 10 or 14psi spring in the wastegate so i can run it in abit and get the hang of the car again the way it reacts with these upgrades etc then boost it some more.! :P

Edited by R334door(s2)
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...