Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 14.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Have you looked at the hi octane sumps? They look like a serious bit of kit and will be what I go for when I build my motor. Some nice internal gating/baffling too

+1 for high octaine sump!! and yeah, needs a bit of cut and wleding

as far as the tomei sump baffel goes i think its either place or screw fit

yeah thats a shame matty fire takes no prisoners or no prejudices

indeed steve, hardest luck story was from the first photo. The guy who lived there lost his first house in the "white flat" fire 2 years ago. his son built the house for him so he had somewhere to live, and he's copped it again. He said to one of the guys i was working with "they sell houseboats on the murray yeah? might be time for me to buy one of them!"

Whats that thingamajig?

-D

thats a "rural padmount" ground level transformer. only uses one phase from the 11kv system (the one cable coming into the "elbow" on the left). Produces 2 phases of 240v for consumer supply. This one WAS feeding 4 houses, but only 2 were left that could be safely re-energised by generators. Note, that was closed during the fire and normal operation, so shows how much heat there would have been

Hope everyone has/or is having a good xmas,

Can anyone recommend a good place to get guards rolled? My tyres seem to like scraping the guards now...

Edited by skwiz
I need some help. I think I've got an inlet leak.

If I rev the engine up and release the throttle , it stalls. But if I take it easy it's fine :P

I'm thinking it's the inlet manifold gasket ?

Any ideas on how to be sure ?

Lose the hektik flutter.... :D

Hope everyone has/or is having a good xmas,

Can anyone recommend a good place to get guards rolled? My tyres seem to like scraping the guards now...

Luke ENR34 is the man to see for guard rolling :D

any idea on prices?

only because i am too lazy to call them.

youre far too lazy for your own good jake.

About $90 a guard, give Luke a pm first mate

what you smoking james? i want some.

bleh, $90 a guard? jesus.

its only $40 a guard for ns members.

ill have to get my guards re-rolled for the cst's, might just get all type to do it.

Edited by scandyflick

I've heard someone say that 98 Octane fuels offered by the different petrol station brands are different in their makeup, and apparently BP ultimate is the better one to use. Is this true or a load of waffle? Does it really matter if someone uses V Power or BP Ultimate or Vortex 98?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...