Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 14.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

RB25 run 9.0:1 static compression standard and have slightly higher compression figures because of that. Of a healthy engine you should be looking for 160-170psi. As long as they are all within 10-12psi it should be fine but with 90 psi you will be down a fair bit on power.

EDIT!!

Here's the figures from my manuals;

RBCompressionFigures.jpg

1.20 MPa = 12 BAR = 176.4 psi

1BAR = 14.7 psi

Standard: 176.4 psi

Limit : 132.3 psi

Difference between cylinders: 14.7 psi

Edited by D_Stirls
RB25 run 9.0:1 static compression standard and have slightly higher compression figures because of that. Of a healthy engine you should be looking for 160-170psi. As long as they are all within 10-12psi it should be fine but with 90 psi you will be down a fair bit on power.

EDIT!!

Here's the figures from my manuals;

<snip>

1.20 MPa = 12 BAR = 176.4 psi

1BAR = 14.7 psi

Standard: 176.4 psi

Limit : 132.3 psi

Difference between cylinders: 14.7 psi

Ive got between 80 - 92 psi on all 6 lol

need some advise,

the fan that sits onfront of the rad has the mesh around it..

does that need to be connected? mine is running consistanly and is pissing me off..

can i disconnect it?

thats the aircon fan mate, confirming you're talkin about the one thats in front (and by front we'd mean closest to the front of the car) of the radiator?

if so, definitely a/c fan, and its probably still sitting in front of the aircon radiator anyways (have you gone that extensive when the actual radiator was out, and get the other radiator (which tucks in under the rad support panel) out?

i still have all the air con connected.. but i NEVER turn it on...

just in the last week the fan has been on everytime i start the car..

wont turn off so i was wondering if i can unplug it?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...