Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 14.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Back onto car repairs, I give a big +1 to

1. Allan @ All Type painted the front GTR style bar on my R34 and was MINT. Also did a repsray on the boot of my parent's Commie and was schmick.

2. Joe @ Profinish just respayed the front lip on the wife's Euro and cut and polished - came up a treat and price was excellent.

car audio stuff of all varieties

1. John @ Marvey Tech all round audio/ICE God, and nice buy to boot. VERY good prices.

Back onto car repairs, I give a big +1 to

1. Allan @ All Type painted the front GTR style bar on my R34 and was MINT. Also did a repsray on the boot of my parent's Commie and was schmick.

2. Joe @ Profinish just respayed the front lip on the wife's Euro and cut and polished - came up a treat and price was excellent.

car audio stuff of all varieties

1. John @ Marvey Tech all round audio/ICE God, and nice buy to boot. VERY good prices.

couldnt agree more with all of this andrew. Joe and John are very good prices. im getting the body work done and the car resprayed in a different colour for less than some places quoted to do just the bodywork :blink:

speaking of CAMS, Ruby, is my membership card on its way???

:) You should have it by now.

Let me go thru the paperwork again and see where its at. Chances are I might have to reissue you another ... the odd one goes missing. Thanks Aust Post. :P

EDIT: PM sent Craig :blink:

anyone know if i can use r32 brake pads in r33?
Rears definately can, and Im 99% the front you can too.

i would of thought even if they fit they wont be utilising the surface area of the R33's larger front Rotor, as Dion said rears are fine

couldnt agree more with all of this andrew. Joe and John are very good prices. im getting the body work done and the car resprayed in a different colour for less than some places quoted to do just the bodywork :blink:

this sounds like news i should hear more about since i need a full respray, need to acquire more parts though

I'm hangin for this years,

Not that I know what I'm spending it on? May put it away for an overseas holiday :).

spend it on the pending slider :P

this sounds like news i should hear more about since i need a full respray, need to acquire more parts though

Speaking of which, you posted on my FB that you have 3 RB25's...care to sell me a Head off one? :blink:

nope sorry

one is only mine till paid in full which should be this week

one is in my car and other will get rebuilt unless i was to source a 26 head to which i cant afford so im stuck with what i have :blink:, soon to be 2x RB25

nope sorry

one is only mine till paid in full which should be this week

one is in my car and other will get rebuilt unless i was to source a 26 head to which i cant afford so im stuck with what i have :blink: , soon to be 2x RB25

...What if I can source a RB26 Head, and swap it for 1 of your RB25 Heads?...or how easy is it for a RB26 Head to go on a RB25 Block?

EDIT: Thought I could source a RB26 head, but I can't unless I do a bit more searching, but how easy/hard is it to bolt a RB26 Head on?

Anyone else hear about rego going up again in July by $35?

Lol, I'll be paying nearly $200 for 900cc 3cyl for 3 months.

FARK! THATS JUST GETTING INSANE!!!!!!!

we have to be the worst of in aust right?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...