Jump to content
SAU Community

The Sa Wasteland

heslo

By heslo,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 14.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Damo_R34 Grand Master

Damo_R34

Posted
Posted

acts of kindness often go unnoticed in the world, especially on SAU. I want to give a massive thanks to SLEEPER85, aka Christian, who borrowed my coilpacks and dropped them off with a bottle of Johnny Walker black! Didn't expect to get anything and didnt ask, so if you ever lend or buy etc. something from him, hes definately a trustworthy forum user :)

Matty 31 Grand Master

Matty 31

Posted
Posted
Yeah. Few minutes per side for the castor easy and while you have the shock/spring out the camber arms right there.

just remember when you do install the adjustable items, to set them to the same length as the stock items. then you dont need to worry immediately about the alignment (ie it will be alright to drive to have a wheelie done on it)

scandyflick Grand Master

scandyflick

Posted
Posted (edited)
I need some ideas for suspension/coilovers as my front castor rods need replacing (so I thought I might as well do the whole lot in one go). I have researched JIC FLT-FAS but from what I've heard, they're probably going to be too stiff for normal street driving and some hills work, especially with Adelaide's shocking road quality.

So what I wanted to know is what you guys use and what you'd recommend.

Also wouldn't mind knowing who/what workshops can install them for me.

theyre what... 8kg front 6kg rear? that isnt harsh norm. double digits is getting a bit painful. 8/6 is livable. my cusco's are 8/6, and theyre easily streetable. even with the dampers cranked up. whos told you theyre "probably" going to be too stiff?

from memory, luke (enr034) had 10kg springs on his cuscos, and that was beautiful to drive.

or... just double, triple, quadruple your budget and get pss9's or something similiar.

and just for fun, ask nightcrawler about his 'well thought out' suspension setup on the r34. that was f**king horrible if i may say so myself. bumpiest car ive ever been in.

as for installation... hardest part about fitting coils is setting the height. but thats more fiddling about than anything. actually fitting them though, im sure theres a lot of people on here that would be able to give you a hand. id do it, but you live on the other side of the world.

Edited by scandyflick
SLED Grand Master

SLED

Posted
Posted

I'd have to disagree Dave....8/6 is beautiful......double digits no good for Adelaide.

A slight ripple on a bend with double digits and you come unstuck or a slight ripple at the end of a straight and your brakes lock up your wheels.

If worried about body roll, stiff shocks are not the answer.

dark.sky Grand Master

dark.sky

Posted
Posted

Ive got 10f/8r. I was told to get this by Ryan because the Skyline is heavier than a Silvia, 180 etc.

On the topic of suspension, I had a hideous knocking sound in the front left, pulled it apart today and found the upper arm bushes need replacing. Recommendations/experiences on what bushes to use?

Normsta Experienced

Normsta

Posted
Posted
theyre what... 8kg front 6kg rear? that isnt harsh norm. double digits is getting a bit painful. 8/6 is livable. my cusco's are 8/6, and theyre easily streetable. even with the dampers cranked up. whos told you theyre "probably" going to be too stiff?

Saw that with general searching and creating a topic:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=5186278

Although he did say that it's only not so great if it's a daily driver, which in my case it is not.

as for installation... hardest part about fitting coils is setting the height. but thats more fiddling about than anything. actually fitting them though, im sure theres a lot of people on here that would be able to give you a hand. id do it, but you live on the other side of the world.

Probably won't fit the coilovers for a bit now (might still buy them as they're on special), but at least going to do the front castor rods ASAP. I'll speak to you about it on Wednesday week.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...