Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So ive taken off my stock rb20 turbo from my 32 gtst. Ive transfered the actuator from the rb20 to the rb25(higher psi - 10) but ive got a question....Whats this "nipple piercing" thing ive reading about. Im completely lost ATM. By the way, im using this guide:

http://www.project32.net/tutorials.php

as quoted from that webpage:

Nipple You may have noticed, the rb20 turbo has the nipple for the wastegate line direct to the compressor housing. Turbo reaches XX psi, wastegate opens, gasses pass into exhaust.

The rb25 doesn't, and relies on you t'ing the wastegate up to the outlet, preferably as close as possible to the turbo outlet itself. Depending on your piping setup, you may have a nipple in your piping simply blocked off � easy, don't have to do anything. If not, you'll have to tap into your piping a standard nipple.

You'll need to drill the piping, and then get the nipple (these can be purchased from supercheap or repco for a few bucks), welded in there, or if you can thread your piping, you can screw it in tight. Just make sure there is no leak, and that it can't pop off under boost.

Here you can see the nipple I have screwed into my existing piping. Done.

he also gives a pic:

turbonipple.jpg

If someone can explain to me, in a more general sense, what EXACTLY i have to do? what does welding a "nipple" onto the intercooler piping do? This "nipple"...what kind of bolt is it?

ill be forever grateful for your help :down:

Edited by IM-32-FK
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291924-so-ive-taken-off-my-rb20-turbo/
Share on other sites

The nipple allows you to hook a pip from the nipple into your wastegate, allowing it to open the gate once the pressure is enough to open it.

Without running this line to your wastegate, the turbo will essentially free boost, and destroy itself (and possibly your motor) in no time.

I suggest you go into supercheap, explain you want a brass nipple vacuum fitting to screw into your intercooler piping. You shouldnt have too much trouble being pointed in the right direction.

Ive got a boost tap where one pipe runs to the actuator and the other runs into the actual turbo when i had my stock rb20 turbo in there....would i still need to put the nipple onto the piping?

diagrams would be helpful.

best thing is to buy a brass fitting to suit vac hose that has thread on one end.. drill a hole cooler pipe closest to the outlet of the turbo and wind the fitting on with a spanner and get someone to silversolder/weld it so its sealed. you can get brass fittings from most auto shops (veals)

Edited by BANGN
I just unscrewed the nipple from the 32 turbo and drilled and tapped the compressor housing on the 33 turbo to suit. The 33 housing still has the stand-off for the nipple only it's not drilled...

are you talking about this?

http://img235.imageshack.us/img235/9563/dyaln025.jpg

thats the rb20 turbo. The rb25 turbo has that same part but the hole has no threads or anything. Can i just take that part off the rb20 turbo and put it on the rb25 turbo?(if yes, do i drill it and tap it?) After ive done that, do i get another nipple any put it on the end of the hose and then weld it onto my intercooler pipe just before it connects with the crossover J pipe? or do i put the other end on the crossover pipe?

Edited by IM-32-FK
I just unscrewed the nipple from the 32 turbo and drilled and tapped the compressor housing on the 33 turbo to suit. The 33 housing still has the stand-off for the nipple only it's not drilled...

Thats exactly what I did too... just make sure you get as much of the swarf (metal shavings) out as you can.

On your pic you can actually see the blank where you can drill the hole out, tap it, and then put in the fitting that was on the rb20 turbo. All the hoses should go back onto the same places that they came off on the rb20 turbo, so forget about drilling/welding/tapping into your crossover pipe.

theres 1 nipple/port on the actuator. all you have to do is make sure that nipple sees boost when the motor sees boost. if you dont want to tap a fitting just buy a little T piece and T into one of the vac lines off the intake manifold, preferably not the fuel reg line.

Thats exactly what I did too... just make sure you get as much of the swarf (metal shavings) out as you can.

On your pic you can actually see the blank where you can drill the hole out, tap it, and then put in the fitting that was on the rb20 turbo. All the hoses should go back onto the same places that they came off on the rb20 turbo, so forget about drilling/welding/tapping into your crossover pipe.

thats not what the guy at skylines spares told me. I was told to just connect the actuator hose to the intercooler piping with a nipple on both ends...

Without running this line to your wastegate, the turbo will essentially free boost, and destroy itself (and possibly your motor) in no time.

off topic and just out of curiosity, which do ya think would happen first in the situation?

blown motor or turbo?

i got money on turbo, if were talking about stock ceramic ones.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...