Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So ive taken off my stock rb20 turbo from my 32 gtst. Ive transfered the actuator from the rb20 to the rb25(higher psi - 10) but ive got a question....Whats this "nipple piercing" thing ive reading about. Im completely lost ATM. By the way, im using this guide:

http://www.project32.net/tutorials.php

as quoted from that webpage:

Nipple You may have noticed, the rb20 turbo has the nipple for the wastegate line direct to the compressor housing. Turbo reaches XX psi, wastegate opens, gasses pass into exhaust.

The rb25 doesn't, and relies on you t'ing the wastegate up to the outlet, preferably as close as possible to the turbo outlet itself. Depending on your piping setup, you may have a nipple in your piping simply blocked off � easy, don't have to do anything. If not, you'll have to tap into your piping a standard nipple.

You'll need to drill the piping, and then get the nipple (these can be purchased from supercheap or repco for a few bucks), welded in there, or if you can thread your piping, you can screw it in tight. Just make sure there is no leak, and that it can't pop off under boost.

Here you can see the nipple I have screwed into my existing piping. Done.

he also gives a pic:

turbonipple.jpg

If someone can explain to me, in a more general sense, what EXACTLY i have to do? what does welding a "nipple" onto the intercooler piping do? This "nipple"...what kind of bolt is it?

ill be forever grateful for your help :down:

Edited by IM-32-FK
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291924-so-ive-taken-off-my-rb20-turbo/
Share on other sites

The nipple allows you to hook a pip from the nipple into your wastegate, allowing it to open the gate once the pressure is enough to open it.

Without running this line to your wastegate, the turbo will essentially free boost, and destroy itself (and possibly your motor) in no time.

I suggest you go into supercheap, explain you want a brass nipple vacuum fitting to screw into your intercooler piping. You shouldnt have too much trouble being pointed in the right direction.

Ive got a boost tap where one pipe runs to the actuator and the other runs into the actual turbo when i had my stock rb20 turbo in there....would i still need to put the nipple onto the piping?

diagrams would be helpful.

best thing is to buy a brass fitting to suit vac hose that has thread on one end.. drill a hole cooler pipe closest to the outlet of the turbo and wind the fitting on with a spanner and get someone to silversolder/weld it so its sealed. you can get brass fittings from most auto shops (veals)

Edited by BANGN
I just unscrewed the nipple from the 32 turbo and drilled and tapped the compressor housing on the 33 turbo to suit. The 33 housing still has the stand-off for the nipple only it's not drilled...

are you talking about this?

http://img235.imageshack.us/img235/9563/dyaln025.jpg

thats the rb20 turbo. The rb25 turbo has that same part but the hole has no threads or anything. Can i just take that part off the rb20 turbo and put it on the rb25 turbo?(if yes, do i drill it and tap it?) After ive done that, do i get another nipple any put it on the end of the hose and then weld it onto my intercooler pipe just before it connects with the crossover J pipe? or do i put the other end on the crossover pipe?

Edited by IM-32-FK
I just unscrewed the nipple from the 32 turbo and drilled and tapped the compressor housing on the 33 turbo to suit. The 33 housing still has the stand-off for the nipple only it's not drilled...

Thats exactly what I did too... just make sure you get as much of the swarf (metal shavings) out as you can.

On your pic you can actually see the blank where you can drill the hole out, tap it, and then put in the fitting that was on the rb20 turbo. All the hoses should go back onto the same places that they came off on the rb20 turbo, so forget about drilling/welding/tapping into your crossover pipe.

theres 1 nipple/port on the actuator. all you have to do is make sure that nipple sees boost when the motor sees boost. if you dont want to tap a fitting just buy a little T piece and T into one of the vac lines off the intake manifold, preferably not the fuel reg line.

Thats exactly what I did too... just make sure you get as much of the swarf (metal shavings) out as you can.

On your pic you can actually see the blank where you can drill the hole out, tap it, and then put in the fitting that was on the rb20 turbo. All the hoses should go back onto the same places that they came off on the rb20 turbo, so forget about drilling/welding/tapping into your crossover pipe.

thats not what the guy at skylines spares told me. I was told to just connect the actuator hose to the intercooler piping with a nipple on both ends...

Without running this line to your wastegate, the turbo will essentially free boost, and destroy itself (and possibly your motor) in no time.

off topic and just out of curiosity, which do ya think would happen first in the situation?

blown motor or turbo?

i got money on turbo, if were talking about stock ceramic ones.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...