Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

New to the forum but have been a long time lurker.

Have been faced with a strange problem on my 1999 R34 GT. Sometimes when ive been starting the car the MIL (engine check light) comes on and the car tends to shake a bit more than normal, noticing this i realised that it runs on 5 cylinders instead of 6 when it lights up. :)

However the light will only light up once or twice a week and the car runs fine (all 6 cylinders working) whenever I happen to start the car and the light does not show up.

I managed to get the ECU scanned recently when it lit up and the error code 21: Ignition Signal Circut came up.

Is it likely that this is due to a faulty coilpack or related to the crank angle sensor?

Has anyone else had a problem similar to this?

cheers

matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292294-r34-gt-ignition-problem/
Share on other sites

Most common R34 problem in the world, replace the coil packs as they all die eventually and you'll be running on less and less cylinders until it won't go.

I don't know of a single R34 that has not had this issue.

Just a word on this: I went a cheapo route and just bought one new Nissan coilpack before I learned about those coilpacks and regretted it. I ended up having to go back and buy a full set of 6 Splitfires. Haven't had a problem since... and now I'm having the same problem on the "new" 25GTt I just bought - need to go tomorrow and buy another set. :cry:

Hey matt, I had this problem when I was helping my brother switch engines in his Datsun 1600. We were running on 3 cylinders instead of four. This was due to both electrical problems but we also found out that we had a couple of vacuum leaks which of course does not allow enough pressure for the pistons to work properly. However, from the sounds of things, it seems that your problem may be electrical (coils).

Good Luck with it.

Luke.

iv replaced all my coils about 8,000ks ago and now im getting a missfire in the low rev range while cruising, but the check light DOESN'T come on like it did with the faulty coils. spark plugs maybe?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...