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Well look what I found living under my car. VERMIN!

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This darn Hicas! I've done two track days and find that that feeling of the rear com'n out just totally unsettles me. So today I've got my Hicas Lock Bar installed. The GTR is a bit more of a pain due to all of the bracing that is under the car. Had to remove the rear cradle bar braces to get to the lock nuts.

Only real issue was having to stop and go to the autoparts store for a bloody $65 30mm spanner. Why did they have to make those lock nuts so big and so narrow. I couldn't get my adjustable wrench on it.

Anyway, can't wait till the next track day to loose that "squishy - tails com'n round" feeling!

Who here has done it and what were your impressions? I've heard good things.

Oh, here is the new setup:

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I did a quickie alignment using a laser pointer across the wheel to the front of the car to gauge toe. It should be really close to what it was before the work as I took all the measurements before and after the work.

Funny the right side ended up exactly where it was before, but the left was out two full turns on the adjustment arm.

Yeah, next time maybe I'll check in the members forum for someone with a wrench, although didn't think I needed it until I got in there and found my adjustable spanner wouldn't fit.

Now I just have to pull the HICAS dash bulb, but at the moment can't be fussed.

  • 2 weeks later...

I've still got LOTS of oversteer on the car, but hopefully now it will be a bit more predictable without the rear trying to steer for me too.

I'm going to try some tweeks today to get the oversteer under control. I just want to get everything to stable base line - hence removing Hicas first.

I bought this lock bar from Unique. It is the Chromoly one which should be very durable and slightly lighter than steel. Although, it's already a big improvement in weight from the Hicas unit. Most are about the same but be sure to get something that is quality, I'd hate to think what would happen if a weld came undone at speed!

I've also got a fair bit of suspension mods done to my car - Greddy S-type coilovers 6/8 weight springs, adjustable bushes & adjustable rear camber arms. Next will be Caster bushes, rear subframe bushes and swaybars.

From what I understand Hicas doesn't kick in until you are doing some speed - like 70kph. So on the street it generally won't make too much difference just on the highway.

I'm taking it out to Wakefield on Saturday so will post my impressions.

So, I took the car to Wakefield yesterday. This is the first real track work I've done sine removing the Hicas. By the end of the day I was feeling so much more comfortable pushing the car. I must admit that I pushed it too hard in 2 of the morning sessions so gave myself a "time out" to get my head straight.

My car is still too heavy to really slide hard into corners, but my exit right hander onto the back straight felt so good. I can enter at 110+ and use the throttle to slide to the outside up to the ripple strip on the back straight. It is SO much better than before.

I managed a best of 1:11.7 (timed from video/frame accurate) - so I'm really chapped! I know the car can go faster, but I still have a ways to go to learn to drive it right. Removing the Hicas has been the biggest aid so far.

so there you go - highly recommend!

  • 2 weeks later...

so standard hicas is bad for drifting? silly question probly but i want to set my 33 up to drift so the more i know the better.. how come hicas is bad im taking because it "steers for you" rather than you being in full control?

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