Jump to content
SAU Community

Need A New Radiator

IL11TE

By IL11TE,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

GreenGhost Collaborator

GreenGhost

Posted
Posted

get one from just jap cooling pro alloy one for r34 skyline they are cheap and work great

if urs is auto u will need to get a trans cooler for the lines that run into the stock radiator

if u need help just ring me and i will help u

myles 0432355971

GoldZilla Grand Master

GoldZilla

Posted
Posted

Brent, if you're in Seven Hills often enough anyway drop into UAS down the end of Tucks Road and have a chat to them, they may be a bit more expensive, but have worked on quite a few Stageas around the area now and know what the go is.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

First of all you need a new radiator, not another used one. Second you should be able to get one from a radiator repair shop. In New Zealand I can get a generic replacement (or a thicker one) with the hoses and trans pipes in all the right places. they just look in the Natrad catalogue. I haven't heard either way if this is possible in Australia but i should imagine it is.

An aluminium or any other radiator without the heat exchanger for the auto trans is no good (unless you have a manual of course). The primary purpose of the heat exchanger is to raise the trans fluid to its optimum operating temperature as quickly as possible and the secondary function is to provide additional cooling.

This primary function will not be acheived with more or bigger seperate trans coolers and since most trips are less than 10km it is important for the auto that the fluid goes through the radiator.

Yes the stock radiator has a plastic top but it has probably lasted 10 or more years.

[To give an example of the importance of the heat exchanger... her indoors was compaining that she would have to buy a new car because the auto trans in her Toyota Corona was stuffed and she didn't want to pay megabucks to overhaul it. It would n't change into top gear until about twenty minutes' driving i.e. normally not at all on most short trips. I fixed the problem with a twenty dollar thermostat - the old one was stuffed and opening at 55 deg so that the engine was taking forever to get up to proper operating temp and therefore so was the auto.]

DaveB Mentor

DaveB

Posted
Posted

You beat me to it re. the missing heat exchanger on aftermarket radiators Rob. I wish we could just buy the cheap alloy radiators from Just Jap etc.... but none of them cater for autos. Good fix with the thermostat.

DaveB Mentor

DaveB

Posted
Posted

Yeah or get it re-cored I guess; that is what I always thought I would do. Cause for a new stocker it would probably have to come from Nissan who would probably charge the earth? Pity we don't have something like Natrad in Australia... :) Maybe a re-core would be doable though just gotta ring around (same as a new radiator as I understand it; they replace the fins/core. although stag radiators have plastic end tanks, not sure if that makes a difference).

darrinspencer Grand Master

darrinspencer

Posted
Posted
so its probably best to get a stock one then? lol less stuffing around straight out and striaght in. alloy would be nice though. but i will stop by UAS and see what they say.

I have a s/hand auto radiator for sale $80 plus delivery if you are interested

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...ad-t290912.html

BensDR30 Experienced

BensDR30

Posted
Posted
...

Pity we don't have something like Natrad in Australia... :D

...

Assuming you were being serious:

Yes we do - they're called Natrad

http://www.natrad.com.au

Assuming you were being a smart arse:

Smart arse...

:)

DaveB Mentor

DaveB

Posted
Posted
Assuming you were being serious:

Yes we do - they're called Natrad

http://www.natrad.com.au

Assuming you were being a smart arse:

Smart arse...

:)

HAHAha well there you go, I learn something new every day!!!

IL11TE Contributor

IL11TE

Posted
  • Author
Posted

went down 2 UAS in seven hills yesterday and booked her in for a service. Asked about the radiator and they suggested alloy straight away and said its better with the addition of the after market trans cooler than the stock oil cooler. rekons it would take 3 hrs to install? im thinking about it.

He said they deal with a few M series stageas... who of you guys goes there and how good are they?

DaveB Mentor

DaveB

Posted
Posted

yeah not just a question of cooling capacity (alloy w/big external cooler will cool more yes) but it's also important to not have *too* much cooling capacity when it's cold, with no way of heating the transmission fluid up to minimum operating temperature (which is what the stock radiator does - Rob explained it well in post #6).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Borci88
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By Borci88 · Posted

      Not a problem at all Lithium, I appreciate your help regardless. I've pulled a small part of a log where the target pressure was 28psi and it spiked to 36.4psi. I've only just begun using Data Log Viewer so if I'm sending this in the wrong format let me know.
    • Lithium
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By Lithium · Posted

      Sorry had a bit of a week and haven't had heaps of time to follow this, so apologies if I've missed something - any chance of showing a log with the rpm, turbo speed, MAP, and wgdc all in one view? Definitely an "interesting" problem, and while it's definitely worth noting that there was a similar issue with the twins I'd not completely put all bets on the root cause being the same thing.  Keep an open mind, follow the data.
    • Borci88
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By Borci88 · Posted

      I built this engine approximately 12 years ago so my own head (brain) is a little grey on the exact hardware in the RB head, however what I recall is. Stock RB25 NEO TURBO Intake Camshaft HKS 260 degree Exhaust Camshaft (R34 GTR) RB25 NEO Turbo Springs  I ported/removed the exhaust stud humps found in the RB25 head so theres less turbulence but it wasn't ported/polished properly, just a hump removal. I've attached two pictures of the before and after to illustrate.     The ECU gets its boost reference from the nipple on the rear of the head on the intake side, behind the fuel rail. The wastegate gets its boost reference from a nipple on the cooler pipe immediately after the comp cover.  Could a decent pressure drop across the intercooler cause the wastegate to be seeing a higher PSI than what the ECU is seeing, and thus it can't control it accurately and quick enough?   We ran a line to the actuator and watched it open and close using an air compressor, while we didn't have a gauge on the line to see when it was cracking open, it was opening smoothly.  I just removed the gate now and even though the documentation says you need to open it in a vice due to preload (which I did), there wasn't any preload on the cap, which is something we noticed straight out of the box as well when new. This silver cap internally is threaded to the actuator rod that runs out the bottom of the straightgate. Not sure how I'm supposed to get this spring out to be frank.. Potentially but everyone else doesn't appear to have to stop at 500kw because of 6boosts design.  I would, but I think I'm getting to that point where if I'm going to do the head and make another 100kw, then I'm going to need a fancy gearbox and quite a few other things and 10k becomes 20k becomes 30k within a few months. I'm not necessarily sold on the idea just yet that the head is restrictive at 4000rpm (and what.. 300kw?) and yet doesn't seem to be restrictive at 7000rpm when it's making 500kw, however I'm obviously not closing the door on that theory.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yeah - Half the problem is I know this sensor actually goes to 150C.. I'm pretty certain it is min of 11C. So still more data required I suppose. It's really quite hard to get the oil temp to 100+ then immediately pull over and take a reading before the temp drops. Annoyingly I suppose the range I really 'want' is likely 80 -> 120C. TBH the ecu can't really *do* anything with it, and the gauge itself is very visible... ...but you know how it is.
    • The Mafia
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By The Mafia · Posted

      My EFR 8474 Black, made 800awhp on a roller dyno. at 25-26psi. E85. Shaft speed was around 106,000rpm 1.01 rear. The rear is maxed.  6 boost Turbosmart 60mm gate 3.5inch exhaust  Head is worked to the shithouse. Bain racing. VCam. 272 exhaust. RB28 - RB26 foundation.  You have an intake issue. Start getting proper data and I mean go back to the simple things.  - Pressure test your intake - Block off the Turbo BOV, you don't need it.  - Test pressure before and after your intercooler If your head is pretty stock, that is your issue. Especially if it is NA.  Take it off and spend $10k on it. 
×
×
  • Create New...