Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

for a cheap cheap job you could just drill the hole for the tensioner new timing belt, gaskets etc, and whack it all together

Where exactly does one drill the hole ?

And do you use the same tensioner and RB25 timingbelt ?

Edited by Axis-D
  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ive heard a Laruel/Cefiro crossmember will bolt in(R32) by doing this no modification is required to the engine mounts. Is this true ???

all the rb blocks have the same engine mounting points, so any rb will fit any rb engined car, the only difference is the heigth of the block, rb30 being 38mm taller than 25 and 26 (and 20??)

I think it fits r33 ok. i have seen a few done that dont appear to have any bonnet mods.

On my 32 i peeled back the insulation under the bonnet and cut out a small section of the bracing and put the insulation back on. i think i have about 5mm clearance to teh cam pulley cover.

  • 1 month later...

Hey guys. here is an update on the build.

1. I decided to bore it and get new pistons - Precision branded. They aren't forged, but a full set of 6 cost me $250. Hastings rings.

2. The Block has been decked

3. All of the exhaust valve guides where cracked, but they simply ground them right back, and countersunk them for a carbon trap.

4. RB26 oil pump was stuffed. Getting another.

5. Did the internal VCT oil feed mod.

6. Head is being shaved to raise the compression to 8.6:1.

7. no balancing.. They built it before I could give them to go ahead. Hoping it should be ok though.

8. Crank Collar Fitted.

Will have the engine in about 3 days.

1. i just used the Flywheel from my 25 on the 30, make sure you check the spiggot bush in the crank make sure it suits the 25 gearbox

2. power steering belt is different on the 30 (v belt)

Hey guys. here is an update on the build.

1. I decided to bore it and get new pistons - Precision branded. They aren't forged, but a full set of 6 cost me $250. Hastings rings.

2. The Block has been decked

3. All of the exhaust valve guides where cracked, but they simply ground them right back, and countersunk them for a carbon trap.

4. RB26 oil pump was stuffed. Getting another.

5. Did the internal VCT oil feed mod.

6. Head is being shaved to raise the compression to 8.6:1.

7. no balancing.. They built it before I could give them to go ahead. Hoping it should be ok though.

8. Crank Collar Fitted.

Will have the engine in about 3 days.

whos doing the the block/engine work as im thinking of doing the same also how much will the finished bottom end cost?

  • 2 weeks later...
Hey guys. here is an update on the build.

1. I decided to bore it and get new pistons - Precision branded. They aren't forged, but a full set of 6 cost me $250. Hastings rings.

2. The Block has been decked

3. All of the exhaust valve guides where cracked, but they simply ground them right back, and countersunk them for a carbon trap.

4. RB26 oil pump was stuffed. Getting another.

5. Did the internal VCT oil feed mod.

6. Head is being shaved to raise the compression to 8.6:1.

7. no balancing.. They built it before I could give them to go ahead. Hoping it should be ok though.

8. Crank Collar Fitted.

Will have the engine in about 3 days.

can i ask where you got the pistons from?

Im picking up a 30 next weekend :)

http://www.precisionintl.com/HTML/locations.html

they sell direct or any repco, auto1 or autobarn can get them...they are only cast factory replacments. They do a "hypatec" or forged piston for rb30et only, so the cast ones are the only real option for a hybrid....unless you want 7:1 comp

http://www.precisionintl.com/HTML/locations.html

they sell direct or any repco, auto1 or autobarn can get them...they are only cast factory replacments. They do a "hypatec" or forged piston for rb30et only, so the cast ones are the only real option for a hybrid....unless you want 7:1 comp

Cool, its for a rb30et only anyway.

Will give them a call tomorrow

Thanks

Rob

Edited by Dj laBBy
http://www.precisionintl.com/HTML/locations.html

they sell direct or any repco, auto1 or autobarn can get them...they are only cast factory replacments. They do a "hypatec" or forged piston for rb30et only, so the cast ones are the only real option for a hybrid....unless you want 7:1 comp

Precision make a forged RB30DET one as well (Or did when I looked it all up about 6 months ago) I had pricing for them.

im using the same pistons (endurotech i think they are called, made by Precision) in my 26/30, they were cheap and due to the lip on the bores i needed to go .20 oversize anyway and forgies were alot more, and then you need rods as well, so i said for $200ish they are worth it.

If it blows up who cares :O

Mines running 22psi with a gt3076r and is fine (though cam timing is not right so lacking power).

I've just put together a second 26/30 right now with another set and going to be running a hks t04z on it and push it pretty hard and see what it can do.

im using the same pistons (endurotech i think they are called, made by Precision) in my 26/30, they were cheap and due to the lip on the bores i needed to go .20 oversize anyway and forgies were alot more, and then you need rods as well, so i said for $200ish they are worth it.

If it blows up who cares :O

Mines running 22psi with a gt3076r and is fine (though cam timing is not right so lacking power).

I've just put together a second 26/30 right now with another set and going to be running a hks t04z on it and push it pretty hard and see what it can do.

I like the way you work...

Sounds a bit like mine, except I didn't even rebuild it... Just need to change a few things, then push its limits...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Had I known the diff between R32 and R33 suspension I would have R33 suspension. That ship has sailed so I'm doing my best to replicate a drop spindle without spending $4k on a Billet one.
    • OEM suspension starts to bind as soon as the car gets away from stock height. I locked in the caster and camber before cutting off the kingpin. I then let the upright down in a natural (unbound) state before re-attaching it. Now it moves freely in bump and droop relative to the new ride height. My plan is to add GKTech arms before the car is finished so I can dial camber and caster further. It will be fine. This isn't rocket science. Caster looks good, camber is good, upper arm doesn't cause crazy gain and it is now closer to the stock angle and bump steer checks out. Send it.
    • Pay careful attention to the kinematics of that upper arm. The bloody things don't work properly even on a normal stock height R32. Nissan really screwed the pooch on that one. The fixes have included changing the hole locations on the bracket to change the angle of the inner pivot (which was fairly successful but usually makes it impossible to install or remove the arm without unbolting the bracket from the tower, which sucks) and various swivelling upper arm designs. ALL the swivelling upper arm designs that look like a capital I (with serifs) suck. All of them. Some of them are in fact terribly unsafe. Even the best one of them (the old UAS design) shat itself in short order on my car. The only upper arm that works as advertised and is pretty safe is the GKTech one. But it is high maintenance on a street car. I'm guessing that a 600HP car as (stupidly, IMO) low as you are going is not going to be a regular driver. So the maintenance issues on suspension parts are probably not going to be a problem. But you really must make sure that however your fairly drastically modded suspension ends up, that the upper arms swing through an arc that wants to keep the inner and outer bolts parallel. If the outer end travels through an arc that makes that end's bolt want to skew away from parallel with the inner bolt, you will build up enormous binding and compressing forces in the bushes, chew them out and hate life. The suspension compliance can actually be dominated by the bush binding, not the spring rate! It may be the case that even something like the GKTech arm won't work if your suspension kinematics become too weird, courtesy of all the cut and shut going on. Although you at least say there's no binding now, so maybe you're OK. Seeing as you're in the build phase, you could consider using R33/4 type upper arms (either that actual arm, OEM or aftermarket) or any similar wishbone designed to suit your available space, so alleviate the silliness of the R32 design. Then you can locate your inner pivots to provide the correct kinematics (camber gain on compression, etc).
    • The frontend wouldn't go low enough because the coilover was max low and the upper control arm would collapse into itself and potentially bottom out in the strut tower. I made a brace and cut off the kingpin and then moved the upright down 1.25" and welded. i still have to finish but this gives an idea. Now I can have a normal 3.25" of shock travel and things aren't binding. I'm also dropping the lower arm and tie rod 1.25".
    • Motor and body mockup. Wheel fitment and ride height not set. Last pic shows front ride height after modifying the front uprights to make a 1.25" drop spindle.
×
×
  • Create New...