Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok so did a track day yesterday. noticed when driving home there is an oil smell.

here's the senario. if you have windows down you can smell oil, when windows up no smell, windows up fan on no smell as well. it only seems to be when either window is down>

i've checked every thing, got my dad to take it work and put on the hoist and couldn't find anything. iv'e degreased everything front to back top to bottom and still can see nothing

does anyone have an idea.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294229-oil-smell-after-track-day/
Share on other sites

I had the same issue but I had some lumpy cams that produced a whole load of blow back into my catch can. My catch can had filters that oil fumes were coming out of. Not too sure if this is your issue but it may provide you with a starting point.

I had the same issue but I had some lumpy cams that produced a whole load of blow back into my catch can. My catch can had filters that oil fumes were coming out of. Not too sure if this is your issue but it may provide you with a starting point.

cams and blow are not related in any way shape or form.

How much boost do you run - stock or above 1 bar?

I found on my R33 GTR with steel wheel hi-flows that at 1 Bar you get oil vapor mixing in the crank case. This is because on the track you are on boost a hell of a lot longer than on the street. In my case I have a breather off the valve cover hoses that started to "ooze" oil out. The stock hoses also actually pipe the breather link into the plenum just below the throttle linkage which pipes the oil filled air back into the induction system.

Even though I now have a just jap catch can with return lines into the valve cover, on High boost situations I still get oil spitting out the back of the car. Check around your exhaust. If this is the case then what you are smelling is the oil in your exhaust system (coated inside). Also check where your breather lines go - in my case made a mess around the ABS unit.

But Trent, I removed my catch can and it had a fair level of oil (enough to tip out). It seemed that oil vapors were blowing into the catch can.

You have blow by, yes... Your cams won't cause it is what Trent is saying.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...