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Track Report: Rota Rims And P-cup Slicks..


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No they dont, rotas have 5 and rays have six, look up post 64 on this thread.

your correct the rotas in post 64 do have 5 spokes & are the lmgt4 copies, however they're just random broken ones someone pulled off the web a couple posts earlier.

This thread is about LSX-438's set of 6 spoke rotas (the te37 copies) if you read through the whole thread you'll see a loads of photos of his exact wheels, for example in post #1 on his gtr...

your correct the rotas in post 64 do have 5 spokes & are the lmgt4 copies, however they're just random broken ones someone pulled off the web a couple posts earlier.

This thread is about LSX-438's set of 6 spoke rotas (the te37 copies) if you read through the whole thread you'll see a loads of photos of his exact wheels, for example in post #1 on his gtr...

yes I am an idiot, thanks for pointing that out.

No they dont, rotas have 5 and rays have six, look up post 64 on this thread.

Dude you're comparing the p45-r which is 5 spoke aka lmgt4 / drifttek copies. the ones duncan have are grid drifts which are 6 spoke and similar to te37 style mate.

edit: just saw your few posts above.

They do look very old. How did they crack? Was it wear and tear/fatigue as in the case of the Rota's or was it a hit? You would need to know that if you are to use that as an argument.

the owner stated no potholes/ditches etc so just appears to be wear & tear.

Got R35 and can not afford set of decent rims? :spank:

please read the thread first........ :)

if i had the money for a 35, i wouldn't be buying rota rims.

but i guess everyone is different.

Got R35 and can not afford set of decent rims?

I just ordered a $7k suspension upgrade today but i am sure it's the wrong set (what would you guys suggest i buy btw?) I've spent about $15k on track tyres in 12 months (several sets of 55's, new slicks, many many sets of 2nd hand slicks as well as new 20" bridgestones and advans recently, all wrong, probably) and $15k again on exhausts, tuning tools, intakes, a few sets of rotors, many more sets of pads, control arm upgrade (all wrong surely). So there's $37k down the drain there. Oh and about $5k on the enkei and rotas too, which we all know about (wrong). So make that $42k thrown away. Oops how about $5k for a stupid active carbon wing (wrong). Make that $47k.

I can't afford the GTR tax on a lot of things. $10k for a set of genuine rotors and pads, how about $2k for some transmission fluid? The GTR tax is.. well, taxing. So we try different things. Some are relatively cheap (and yet better than the more expensive options) and i share the info freely. I don't mind if you think i'm a cheap bastard, no.

Finding this thread pretty interesting as im studying Engineering at the moment (only first year though)

This may just be a load of crap but i feel like researching and giving an opinion.

It says on the Rota site that they use A356.2 aluminum alloy I think this is the weakest of the alloys from what i can gather.

The Rota site also says that they use some form of heat treatment, looking at some standard heat treating methods for A356.2 a method is to heat it too 1000degrees F which is 537degrees C then quenched in water 65-100degrees C.

So you said your brakes heated up to 800 degrees with the rim having about 1mm of clearance from that heat. So my guess would be the crystalline structure in the rim would be getting screwed around every time you took the car out for a track day. Im guessing it would be like welding aluminum how it loses its strength when you weld it.

So the rim becomes weaker due to lack of clearance between the caliper resulting in crap loads of heat making the rim become more brittle and loose strength, and then the sudden temperature drop by driving though water forced it to crack, like using liquid nitrogen on something and hitting it with a hammer..

Well thats my guess as i dont see any flexing on the wheel for it to crack that way.

But hey im only a first year student so i might be wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy off, tell me if im wrong... if you actually know what your talking about :wacko:

Just my twoCents :nyaanyaa:

The reason they broke is simple physics. They were stressed to within an inch of their life and then pushed far past it.

Constant heating and cooling cycles on those rims while they're being subjected to hard forces will stress the hell out of them and accelerate metal fatigue. What's the load bearing for each wheel if you don't mind me asking? If you're running a 1700kg+ car and pulling more than 1g in the corners that's going to put a large strain on the wheels too, I'm too lazy to figure out the exact amount of load on each wheel but I'm sure an engineer with too much time on his hands can come up with the answer. And finally the manufacturing process comes into it, a forged wheel is stronger and as such you can use less material when making it to reduce weight yet still have enough strength to put up with the stresses of motorsport use. When a wheel is made to to similar specs using a gravity casting method of manufacturing there's no way it'll be able to take the same amount of force as the forged wheel would.

I just ordered a $7k suspension upgrade today but i am sure it's the wrong set (what would you guys suggest i buy btw?) I've spent about $15k on track tyres in 12 months (several sets of 55's, new slicks, many many sets of 2nd hand slicks as well as new 20" bridgestones and advans recently, all wrong, probably) and $15k again on exhausts, tuning tools, intakes, a few sets of rotors, many more sets of pads, control arm upgrade (all wrong surely). So there's $37k down the drain there. Oh and about $5k on the enkei and rotas too, which we all know about (wrong). So make that $42k thrown away. Oops how about $5k for a stupid active carbon wing (wrong). Make that $47k.

I can't afford the GTR tax on a lot of things. $10k for a set of genuine rotors and pads, how about $2k for some transmission fluid? The GTR tax is.. well, taxing. So we try different things. Some are relatively cheap (and yet better than the more expensive options) and i share the info freely. I don't mind if you think i'm a cheap bastard, no.

If the TE37's have the same clearance, i would not be happy to pay $5000 for a set.

:nyaanyaa:

P.S You are not a cheap bastard, just go and get some SSR Type C-RS :wacko:

TwoCents and Intensevil, thankyou for your sensible contribution, even if you're not on the money it gets you thinking.

Edit: i think the load for each of those rims is 630kg, but i would need to check.

Edited by LSX-438
It says on the Rota site that they use A356.2 aluminum alloy I think this is the weakest of the alloys from what i can gather.

I've been told that 99% of cast wheels use this material; anyone know?

although if we're honest, 99% of cast wheels are cheap junk u pick up from ur local bob jane to make ur laser look speccy!

my original posts have been deleted, but my there point was, you are racing a heavy supercar around a track, you simply cant use what ur average car uses, rotas are just a glorified CSA, monza etc etc which just so happen to come in bigger sizes and offsets, they are targeted at a different market, but they are no different besides that. its one thing to put them on a street car, a low end drift or grip car (although i wouldnt recommend it), but to put them on a track GTR

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