Questions About My Rb30 Build

[KwS]

Hi guys

Starting a 30 build, and just doing a plan of what i need, and what needs to be done. Done i lot of research, but a few things a little unclear to me.

Im trying to do it on a tight budget, so its a stock 30e block, standard crank, rods and pistons. New rings and bearings. Using a R32 25DE head. The car will be running reasonably low power (200-250kw). Street driven, rev limited at 7000rpm. Will spend a fair bit of time tapping the redline.

What i need to know, is if anyone has a decent size pic of the water and oil feed/drains on the exh side of the RB30 block (just to be sure which ones im using).

Where does one get the restrictors for the oil from, and what size should i run? Do i even need to change them?

People always talk about changing the oil pump to 25DET or 26DETT pumps, but can you happily use a standard 30 pump? or even a 20DE or DET pump? I dont want to sleeve the crank, as is needed with the R33 26 or 25 pumps.

Cheers

[MBS206]

So far, I'm running the factory RB30E pump on mine... I'm having issues with too much oil up top... Have to redo the oil pressure guage, so can't tell you about it, but I know on the track I've got plenty of oil up top.

[SirRacer]

On my car i drain the water from the turbo around the front of the engine where the gtr's do as stock. Otherwise you end up draining hot water back into the block which isnt a hugely smart idea.

This here gives you a good idea. 30e pump will be fine but id sleeve it just to be sure. Its 150 bucks so why not.

I got my Tomei restrictor from nengun.com but i think you can find them on trademe now. If not go into an engine reconditioner and ask them to make you one with a 0.5mm hole. Block the front and put this one in the rear (or other way round, check this out).

Edited November 1, 2009 by SirRacer

[brada31ke70]

i planned to only re ring the standard pistons as well but most rb30s are around 20 years old and may have some wear and may need to be bored with over size pistons anyway, its also a good idea to have the crank looked at, so while they are there you should get the oil pump drive extended. it sort of snow balls once you start. i did all of the assemdling work myself, got mahale 1mm oversize pistons new bearings, crank got machined down .25, new nismo oil pump and gaskits and seals and it set me back around 4500, remember a cheap man builds his engine twice. good luck with the build,

[KwS]

Cheers for the advice guys.

Had another look at the block again today. Does anyone have a pic of the oil restrictors? Im pretty sure im looking at the right ones... but when i measured them they came out to have 1.3mm holes in both of them. I was under the impression that Rb30e was meant to have 2mm holes?

[fletch rb30]

just go down to paykels or similar and get a .9mm or .6mm (depending on what size you want) mig welding tip. they are 6mm outside. Cut a slice off it about 8-10 mm long, clean it up a bit and bash it in with a hammer!

Im running stock rb30e bottom end with new rings and bearings, got the block skimmed and honed and new frost plugs and that was it. Been running well. If it blew due to poor assembly or worn parts i would just get another stock bottom end and do it again.

300kw at the wheels on less than 20psi, plenty of power for the price

[KwS]

Cheers for the advice guys.

Had another look at the block again today. Does anyone have a pic of the oil restrictors? Im pretty sure im looking at the right ones... but when i measured them they came out to have 1.3mm holes in both of them. I was under the impression that Rb30e was meant to have 2mm holes?

anyone have any answers to why this is? Would i be fine to just leave those restrictors alone and run them?

Im still after a pic of the restrictors if anyone has one, just to be sure i have the right ones.