Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Rods are Rods, as long as the small end and big end bearings fit snug and their ok length, go for it.

I don't know shit about V8s internally, so i dunno if they have the same size bearings.

[sorry for double post :| ]

Edited by turbo x-trail

due to the amount of interest, and the off topic posting in for sale threads i have decided to start this thread for discussion on fitting h-beam rods into rb30 engines

i am currently doing it with scat rods http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/FS_800.htm

they are small journal 6" chev h-beam rods.i got a set of 8 for $700 retail price.they need to have about 2mm machined off both the little end and big end thickness.they also need to have a nissan little end bush installed.chev bearings must be used as the dowels on the bearings are on the opposite side to nissan bearings.

i will be keeping tabs on all costs and and details on all machine work so others will not have to worry about what is involved.

anybody who has already done this please post what you have done to fit yours

copy from CT

This has been covered numerous times,

You will find it more expensive to do this procedure than to buy a set of rods designed for RB30

As mentioned about 2 mm is require to be machined off the b/e and small end sides, the small ends then need to be rebushed, the bearings also need to be narrowed, the b/e tunnels then need to be resized due to the narrowing process distorting the b/e tunnel of the rod. From memory 60thou Chev bearings are required, and then the std crank has to be machined 7 thou to suit the new b/e tunnel size.

I have a set of SCAT H beams identical to whats been mentioned in my 25/30.

All up it cost me $900 with machining done by myself.

When I was shopping for rods, Spool Conrods never replied to emails, pm's or messages left on the phone...and I waited months. :P

I reply to all my emails usually within 24 hrs - so I obviously didnt get yours.

I never reply to PM's

Sorry if I didnt reply to your phone message, but as I only have one number I do get alot of them.

I have a set of SCAT H beams identical to whats been mentioned in my 25/30.

All up it cost me $900 with machining done by myself.

When I was shopping for rods, Spool Conrods never replied to emails, pm's or messages left on the phone...and I waited months. :P

I KNOW I COULD JUT BUY rb30 ones but when i can get some nice carrillos for next to nothing with pressure wrist pin oiling (will be drysumped) one must ask...

also it my open some options for na motors using 25 or 26 pistons with 6.1 or 6.2" rods to bring the piston up higher for a high comp ratio.....

My mate who builds 888 racing's engines is also an RB30 guru...he buys Argo's off me so id question why he isn't using the pile of Carillo's he has access to. He's in the states at the moment...ill have a chat to him when he gets back and call you Dave.

I machined a set a while ago for a bloke who had already bought them. I had to narrow the rod and machine the outside of it to allow it to fit down the bore, they weren't made to fit an 86mm bore. These rods also needed the small end narrowed to fit between the pin bosses.

Now that there are good quality rods made specificaly for the RB30 at a good price, it's a bit of a waste of time unless you can machine them yourself and buy them very cheap to start with. Most of the used nascar rods for sale are too long (6.2-6.3") to start with though they do run Jap bearing sizes and metric pins. You do need to remember that stuff is used as well and you don't have rod bolt lengths to compare to original and it is probably worth having them crack tested. Some of them also aren't bushed on the small end and require a DLC coated pin, check the price on them..

In all honesty I'd just buy a set of Spool rods, great price, excellent dimensionally and weight-wise and I haven't seen a broken one yet. I used them in an engine recently that ran 3rd (i think) in the last Superlap event and recently had the engine apart and they looked and measured like new.

I haven't used the Precision rods. Anyone who has, can you tell me if they really use a 5/16" rod bolt in them? surely not. Maybe if they were an L19 or Carr bolt it may be a different story. I know some scat ones used to on the SR20 and 3S toyota rods but even they have 3/8" bolts now. Thats a lot of load on a little bolt! Spool and most others run a 3/8" bolt.

There's not many rods around with forced pin oiling until you get to the top end stuff as the holes are usually edm'ed to keep the diameter down. I don't think it's a big benefit unless you're running a vacuum pump and pulling all the oil vapour out of there. A couple of small cuts with a small ball end milling cutter on the thrust face of the big end sends plenty of oil up to the pin and under the piston.

You can get a vacuum relief valve to limit the amount of vacuum the pump will pull in the crankcase. Vacuum is a big benefit as long as you still get the oiling you need and piston pins are one of the things you need vapour/splash for, particularly in engines without piston oil squirters. A roots gear set is a pretty good vacuum pump, particularly when it's well oiled and you have 4 of them sucking so pressure fed pins or a squirter might be a good idea in that case. A .5-.75mm deep cut with a 2mm ball end milling cutter on the thrust face of the big end pointing directly at the pin would work well to get oil up to the pin and under the piston if you don't want to go the edm route.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
    • Literally looks like direct port nitrous haha
×
×
  • Create New...