Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I use it on my dump pipe. Stinks for 100kms or so till it burns off the bit of oil or whatever is in it. Many people say it's a waste of time. At the end of the day... there might be better ways to heatproof stuff like hpc coating for example but if you've got it already then might as well use it. Just use hose clamps i don't think they need to be anything special although they do sell specific ones but i think that's just because they're narrower. Only thing that you could do that you wouldn't have to fix down the track.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294993-heat-wrap/#findComment-4920264
Share on other sites

I use it on my dump pipe. Stinks for 100kms or so till it burns off the bit of oil or whatever is in it. Many people say it's a waste of time. At the end of the day... there might be better ways to heatproof stuff like hpc coating for example but if you've got it already then might as well use it. Just use hose clamps i don't think they need to be anything special although they do sell specific ones but i think that's just because they're narrower. Only thing that you could do that you wouldn't have to fix down the track.

thanks heaps bro

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294993-heat-wrap/#findComment-4920373
Share on other sites

steel cable ties or stainless wire does the trick. using heat wrap can create hot spots in manifolds tho and with some aftermarket units using it voids the warranty. in saying that i use it on my dump pipe and hot side intercooler pipe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294993-heat-wrap/#findComment-4920708
Share on other sites

i used it on my front/dump pipe to help keep the heat down as best i could in the engine bay, im pretty pleased with how it turned out. the hot tip is soak the heat wrap in water for a minute or 2 before you wrap ya pipe, make sure it overlaps by 1/2 or 1/3. secure it with stainless hose clamps, and ya laughing old mate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294993-heat-wrap/#findComment-4921650
Share on other sites

i used it on my front/dump pipe to help keep the heat down as best i could in the engine bay, im pretty pleased with how it turned out. the hot tip is soak the heat wrap in water for a minute or 2 before you wrap ya pipe, make sure it overlaps by 1/2 or 1/3. secure it with stainless hose clamps, and ya laughing old mate.

Soaking it in water is a BAD thing to do... Heat wrap will trap moisture and rust the pipes...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294993-heat-wrap/#findComment-4922064
Share on other sites

The wrapping dries out with the heat of the exhaust anyway, doesnt hold any moisture that would rust the pipes.

The best thing to do is paint the piping/manifold with high temp paint to seal it, then use the wrap.

Soaking it in water makes it easier to do a good install (nice a tight with good, even coverage)

Ive heard that wrapping isnt that good to use on stainless, but i used it on my extractors (when i was NA) and never had a problem...

Im using it on my steampipe turbo manifold and considering it on the stainless dump to keep engine bay temps down - dunno about the dump being stainless tho.

+1 ceramic coating is the shit, but VERY expensive, heat wrap does wonders for engine bay temps.

Also use it on my oil return line that runs very close to the exhaust, along with hotside I/C piping...

Oh yeh and use gloves when you install this shit, or youl be picking out invisible fiberglass splinters for weeks to come...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294993-heat-wrap/#findComment-4922612
Share on other sites

Really?

I know a lube mobile mechanic that swears by it.

Reckons thats all he/they did in europe.

I've been warned of it by a couple of workshops.

Plus, why do you need to do it, it isn't like it's stiff or anything, it's very easy to manipulate.

Oh, and the old heat wrap on the oil lines... Saves them splitting and causing fires! I have it on my return line too...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294993-heat-wrap/#findComment-4923255
Share on other sites

Ive heard that wrapping isnt that good to use on stainless, but i used it on my extractors (when i was NA) and never had a problem...

I was told by an exhaust shop not to wrap my stainless dumps as it would make them become more brittle and prone to cracking

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294993-heat-wrap/#findComment-4923647
Share on other sites

Ceramic coating isnt as expensive as some people may think... Guy I work with just got a pretty long set of extractors done for less than $200 at HPC... We get trade price because of where we work but cant make that much difference... Definitely worth it too

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294993-heat-wrap/#findComment-4923689
Share on other sites

Its good to wrap your turbo downpipes and ex.manifold with those heat wraps.

For those who have doubts, make sure the heat wraps are soak in water for an hour

to soften the wraps. Wrap it as tight as possible to prevent future twisting and rubbing against steel surfaces/pipes.

By doing this, your pipes or welding joints wont get brittle and create cracking.

Once its soaked, wrapped and securely fasten with driveshaft ties, heat the engine up and slowly let it dry.

You will see how good it looks compared to dry wrapping. Doing it the right way will really help to cool the engine bay.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294993-heat-wrap/#findComment-4924417
Share on other sites

as MrKotter said..

Wrapping will cause your mani/pipes to become brittle.

The wrap will keep the heat in and your mani/pipes will run hotter. This WILL lead to cracking if you have low quality parts and is only truly needed for race applications.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294993-heat-wrap/#findComment-4930627
Share on other sites

I was told by an exhaust shop not to wrap my stainless dumps as it would make them become more brittle and prone to cracking

Pretty much heard the same, not so bad on mild steel though. But with stainless it can cause it crystalise by keeping the heat in too much.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294993-heat-wrap/#findComment-4931094
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
Ă—
Ă—
  • Create New...