Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

+1

Shouldn't be a drama. Couple of R34 owner's have already bought some. .:: GimpS-R34 ::. is installing his and working out wire colours etc.. at the moment.

these things won't last. once they sell, I'm not making any more. Just way too time intensive!

-tom

  • 4 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
still in sandy area?

Yep. Can post or pick up if u prefer. Can do installs too.

Hey Mate, if you still have a set of these I would be interested.. Seems like they work on the r34's as well from what I have read from other people..

Pauly

Yeah still got some. A few guys with R34's have bought them :banana:

PM if ur keen

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
My 33 has always done this... I just leave the switch in the 'extend' setting and it retracts when I take the key out and extends when I put it back in... I can lock them out by putting it into 'neutral' once they're out... I always thought this was just a standard feature! Stock Series 1 R33... maybe I'll have to have a poke around and see if there's any funny business going on behind there...

Probably wired into your car alarm, when a mate installed my alarm he asked if I wanted the mirrors to auto fold in. I think he was able to wire it in to the circuit that automatically wound the windows up when locking the car as well.

Any more info on R34 installs yet?

I'm guessing it would be pretty different, given the fuse box is under the bonnet and the mirror control is on the driver side door :)

No feedback as yet unfortunately. You'd just need to locate the wires down in the driver's side foot well and work out what goes where. I've never actually been in an R34 let alone tested the circuits, so I couldn't tell you! Cheers -Tom

Any more info on R34 installs yet?

I'm guessing it would be pretty different, given the fuse box is under the bonnet and the mirror control is on the driver side door :blink:

All the wires are the same colour as the R33.. Except getting the power.. You need to find a source which is why I havent gotten around to installing mine yet.. Been too busy on other things to look at my car LOL..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...