Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 4 weeks later...

Hi guys, I have an 2010 Infiniti FX35. I was searching on how to make my mirrors automatic and ran accross this thread.. The switch i have is the same as the R33 (open, neutral, close). I would like to try this mod out and was wondering, Tommy J, if you have any left. I would like to purchase one. I understand that its not guaranteed to work on my car and am willing to try it out.

Edited by Saleen00_227
  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

I don't mean to sound rude. But don't skylines come with this anyway? I have a switch that I flick from left to right and my mirrors open up. Isn't that standard?

Hi mate, fair question. True, the switches move the mirrors in and out. But the controller basically does everything automatically. so you don't need to flick any switches. Plus you get the benefit of folding the mirrors in while the car is off. A stock skyline doesn't do this because the mirrors run off Accessory power.

I still have some if anyone is interested. $30 + P/A

-Tom

  • 10 months later...

Hi there mate,

Bit of a long shot, but do you still have anymore/able to make any more? Am dead set on getting one, I live in New Zealand but am happy to pay for shipping over here if you are able to. Thanks very much!

Dan

  • 6 months later...

Hey,

to quote exactly above ^^ any chance of getting one of these? Im in perth but have been looking for an easy solution for this "auto folding" feature for a while now.

Cheers ;)

Hi mate, no problems. $30 + $10 P&H should cover it. PM if you want one! Cheers -Tom

Hi there mate,

Bit of a long shot, but do you still have anymore/able to make any more? Am dead set on getting one, I live in New Zealand but am happy to pay for shipping over here if you are able to. Thanks very much!

Dan

Hi Dan, sorry I wasn't sure if I'd responded. If you're still interested, PM your Location in NZ and I'll get you a quote for the postage. Cheers -Tom

  • 2 years later...

Hi all, still have a few left. PM if interested. Cheers

Sorry if the info is somewhere in this thread, but are they hard to install? I'd be interested in one for a s2 r33 if it makes any difference which series.

Cheers,

Chris

  • 4 weeks later...

Sorry if the info is somewhere in this thread, but are they hard to install? I'd be interested in one for a s2 r33 if it makes any difference which series.

Cheers,

Chris

Not hard to install at all. Just need side cutters, soldering iron, PVC tape etc. Instructions are pretty straight forward and easy to follow. PM if interested.

Cheers

Tom

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
    • You can probably scrub the rust with a toothbrush or something. After you get the rust off flush well with water to neutralize and you will probably want to also use a fuel tank sealer to keep it from rusting again.
    • The sodium citrate solution is designed to buffer the citric acid to keep it from attacking metal quite so much, the guy that came up with that recipe did a ton of testing on how much metal loss occurs over time and it's nothing crazy unless you forget about it for months:   
×
×
  • Create New...