Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guyz, im just saving up to buy a front/dump pipe and high flow cat from just jap and i just wanted to know how much would it cost to get it fitted onto my R34 at a exhaust shop. Have any of you guys fitted it yourself?

I already have an apexi cat back exhaust. I know replacing the cat is easy, but dont have any idea on fitting the front/dump pipes..

Just want to know a approx how much does labour cost to get it fitted...

Thnx...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295324-cost-of-fitting-splitdump-pipes/
Share on other sites

honestly mate, do it yourself, have a look where the dump pipe meets your turbs, that will

prob be the hardest part, gettin your hands in there, the rest is done underneath, obviously...

save some coin and give it a go,

if you do decide to go the shop route, they shouldnt charge you more than an hour, depending on your existing

joins, welds or flanges?

have a look, and give it a shot.

I don't think you can put a standard price on a job like that , there is always the risk of breaking fasteners around turbine housings and it takes time to get the remains out if they do shear off .

If they all come out "easily" and don't damage any threads , and if all the pipework fits together and seals properly you could probably budget for something up to possibly a hour and a half .

Too many ifs to work with .

A .

I don't think you can put a standard price on a job like that , there is always the risk of breaking fasteners around turbine housings and it takes time to get the remains out if they do shear off .

This is why I paid to get mine done.

It cost $110. He snapped two studs, I have little patience so it was money well spent.

Yeh if you are going to try it yourself get some spray to loosen the nuts first...

take it from a guy who went through the hell of having to take off the turbo fail with an easy out and then end up spending 8 drill bits getting it all out so a stud could get tapped in :P

it isn't easy to do without breaking nuts. most of the people on here will tell you they had to drill out at least one. still, well worth doing yourself to save some money. where abouts in melb are you? may be able to recommend a workshop - but the above price of $110 sounds like a pretty good deal. i know people that have paid $300 lol.

spray some wd40 on the threads and see if you can get the nuts off. If you can't then worst case take it to an exhaust shop and they will oxy them off.

I actually couldn't get the ones from the cat off and i went to an exhaust shop and they cut them off and just charged me for 2 bolts and i went back home and continued doing it. Really there's only like 6 on the turbo and 2 on the cat. After doing it a few times i find that easier just laying on the ground and doing them all like that. Otherwise get cut up hands etc.

All depends how much patience and time you want to spend on it.

buy some decent tools - thats my advice. 2 years into modding my skyline i ended up throwing out all of my tools and went and bought some decent equipment with handy attachments. saved me time, money (on replacing shitty tools that break) and effort.

Well, i know i will be able to change the cat myself but im unsure of wether i will be able to change the front/dump pipes as i dont wanna be doing anything close to the turbo!!

I was thinking of buying a hydraulic jack and changing the cat with the help of that jack.. Do u guyz reckon its safe with that hydraulic jack??

Get jack stands while you're at it, cos it'll protect you if the jack fails (it could happen).

They're $30 from supercheap auto or parts stores.

piece of wood under the k frame (the side jack points are shit, wood evens out the pressure), jack then stands.

soak the dump nuts and bolts on wd40 before you work on em, else they will snap. (once everything is back on you will get heaps of smoke tho from the wd40 burning off)

the bolts and nuts on my 33 are 13mm and 15 or 17 on the cat.

one of the bolts is going to be a bitch to put on the new dump as its really close to the dump housing. i worked away on it with a ring spanner.

imo, once you spend the money on the tools etc and waste time getting the car up and taking all the shiz off, $250 at a workshop is well worth it.

oh also get an oem turbo to dump gasket :)

Looking at it now, i think it would be wise to just get it done from the shop... rather than snapping a bolt and then taking the hassel to buy all the things needed for it and etc....

Dam i never knew it would be tough to even remove the bolts from the cat!!

wd40 - $5

hydraulic trolley jack 2500kg - $60 (put under front)

use your jack in the boot under the side. (you now have two jacks supporting your work area)

Borrow 3 ring spanners (13, 15 and 17) if you don't have your own set already.

$15 for the gasket maybe

I daresay that one day you will be needing to get under the car anyway so why put off buying a jack lol.

Then you can say you've done it yourself and if you have to pull the turbo off down the track you already know how to do half of it.

At the end of the day it's up to you mate:)

wd40 - $5

hydraulic trolley jack 2500kg - $60 (put under front)

use your jack in the boot under the side. (you now have two jacks supporting your work area)

Borrow 3 ring spanners (13, 15 and 17) if you don't have your own set already.

$15 for the gasket maybe

I daresay that one day you will be needing to get under the car anyway so why put off buying a jack lol.

Then you can say you've done it yourself and if you have to pull the turbo off down the track you already know how to do half of it.

At the end of the day it's up to you mate:)

I probably wouldn't recommend getting under a car with just jacks supporting it no matter how good they are. You can pick up a decent pair of car stands for about $40 and could save you from being crushed by your own car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The incentives are mostly the same, yes. Ethanol is cheap compared to the cost of doing 98-100 RON with crude oil alone. 87 to 93-94 AKI all with E10. In 2020 Canada mandated E10 as a part of their "renewable fuel standard" and is supposedly going to go to E15 in 2030. In California where there are only 8 refineries with two threatening to shut down next year it's been over 20 years now of E10 and 91 AKI maximum because there's just not enough refinery capacity or crude oil supply relative to the demand for premium unleaded fuel. And CARB's low carbon fuel standard means functionally none of the diesel available at the pump is made from crude oil anymore. It's almost all entirely 20% biodiesel blended with 80% renewable diesel (hydrotreated vegetable oil) now. The number of gasoline vehicles that support E15 or higher ethanol concentrations is surprisingly low, I can't imagine it being wise to play tricks like this without flex fuel sensors in most of the fleet.
    • It's almost certainly the same as the one next to it. Have a fish around amongst these hits https://www.google.com/search?q=surface+mount+transistor+m33&sca_esv=9cb49794e0b2005d&source=hp&ei=2vJ5aNjTB7Kw0PEPldnS8QM&iflsig=AOw8s4IAAAAAaHoA6qkfmF6XcygtrZ4Vu9f92NXF_RFd&ved=0ahUKEwjYqIPP7MWOAxUyGDQIHZWsND4Q4dUDCA8&uact=5&oq=surface+mount+transistor+m33&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6IhxzdXJmYWNlIG1vdW50IHRyYW5zaXN0b3IgbTMzMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigAUjKCFAAWABwAHgAkAEAmAHfAaAB3wGqAQMyLTG4AQPIAQD4AQL4AQGYAgGgAuYBmAMAkgcDMi0xoAfMBLIHAzItMbgH5gHCBwMyLTHIBwU&sclient=gws-wiz
    • South Australia, which is hardly as far behind as the rest pf Oz makes out, and who is also not a paragon of progressiveness (read that as over-legislation) in the area of vehicle standards, has this to say on the subject: Adjustable coil-over suspension Aftermarket adjustable coil-over suspension components are suspension units that incorporate an external thread on the main body and corresponding threaded spring saddle that allows the vehicle's suspension height to be varied. If fitting aftermarket or coil-over suspension components you must submit an Application to modify a light motor vehicle form and a report from a light vehicle engineering signatory (LVES).
    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • Those above shitboxes, mediocre and above usually have a turbo strapped to them, hence the slightly higher octane is required.  
×
×
  • Create New...