Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What BOV are you guys running for high boost settings? eg. 1.7bar-2bar?

Currently i am having issues with my BOVs. I have a HKS SSQV which is shyt and now my Greedy Type RS is giving me issues as well..

One time the RS had its valve stuck open and HKS had always have problem with stalling.

I dont have much confidence in these 2 brands now and im worried it might destroy my compressor shaft if i continue running on those BOVs.

I am serching for something more dependable and I was wondering are Tial BOVs any good?

Another question.

Do you guys run two BOVs at the intercooler to intake or one on each side of intercooler?

What spring rates?

Comments and feedbacks are most welcome.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295386-high-boost-blow-off-valves/
Share on other sites

While we are on the subject of BOV's I'd like to ask about location of them.

I was under the impression the best place was as close to the throttle body as possible. That way, when the throttle closes and the BOV opens the majority of the charge air continues flowing in the same direction.

The other day I was looking on the turbobygarrett website and it stated the best place for the BOV was as close to the compressor outlet as practical. To me this doesn't make sense as all the charge air in the pipes/intercooler has to reverse flow to exit the BOV.

On RB's the standard BOV is pretty close to the thottle. And from what I can recall, on SR20's the BOV is located near the throttle and the return pipe crosses back over to the other side of the engine to get back to the compressor inlet.

In both cases (and you see this alot in aftermarket piping kits) the BOV is usually located on the hot pipe, next to the compressor inlet in order to shorten the return pipe.

Edited by daisu
  • 3 months later...

digging up an old thread rather than starting a new one.

and not 'quite' the same question but here goes,

Has anyone ran GTR Bov's Pre cooler?

I've finally sourced some 33 GTR Bovs, and I was wondering if I could place them Beofre the cooler, as this will make the return to the intake a heck of a lot shorter/simpler. If I mount them in the same position as the GTR, I've got to run a 2" return pipe all the way from the cooler exit right back to the intake pipe. And the factory plastic return wont work with my custom piping/cooler setup.

I'm olny concerned as I know the GTR Bov's have the rubber/plastic seat and I'm worried about them melting due to the added heat being plumbed in pre cooler compared the the factory 'after the cooler'.

cheers

Would like some info in this.. possibly a pm to me would be real nice if you have the time?

I suspect mine is leaking.. How do you know if yours has the soft spring or the other one? how do you have it hooked up? do you have both lines connected or just the one?

ive played around with mine for ages....

I ran a Greddy type R with the soft spring at around 1.9 bar with no problems.

+3 For stock GTR BOV's

28psi and no leaks...

As for swapping from aftermarket to GTR ... Stock, the GTR BOV's are open at idle, so make shure you plumb them back before the AFM- or put filters on them for MAP sensor cars.

Melt??? I doubt it. They're so cheap to replace I wouldn't worry about it.

I think it was Nizpro that used to use them for boost controll... Good bit of kit!

Yes I know they open at idle, so yep making new intake to accommodate the return pipe.

I was only concerned they would melt as they will see heat they were never going to see mounted after the cooler. And if they did happen to fail I had visions of crap (Hard plastic) finding its way back to the intake and into my comp wheel..... I've had a look at the plastic, its looks pretty sturdy stuff tho.

I'm not expecting it to happen, I'm sure nissan built them to take 10 times the heat they were ever going to see. But it doesn't cost to ask, and maybe avoid a potential headache.

and as for cheap, not really - and thats when you can get them.

I run GTR BOV's pre-cooler.

I have a backpressure problem that i'm sorting out, we think it's due to the cooler piping bends and chamber changes made a while ago. (been tested, so its 100% something that was changed)

So they blow open over 16psi, but otherwise no issue and they will be perfectly fine pre-cooler. Just a bastard to fit them there :D

I suspected you would run them pre cooler on the 31, I think I sent you a PM but maybe it didnt send.

I think I've got it nutted out, Took me awhile tho.

I'll post up some pics once I'm done

You might well have - i've got ... to many atm.

Need to sit down for 2-3 hours and go through them all... avoiding it :D

I did have a single BOV before cooler, but now with 2x its pre-cooler. It's not very "clean", a tad messy looking but works fine.

I have a split A/C setup (factory nissan) so i couldnt put them on the drivers side unfortunately, not quite enough room otherwise post cooler they would have gone.

What BOV are you guys running for high boost settings? eg. 1.7bar-2bar?

Currently i am having issues with my BOVs. I have a HKS SSQV which is shyt and now my Greedy Type RS is giving me issues as well..

One time the RS had its valve stuck open and HKS had always have problem with stalling.

I dont have much confidence in these 2 brands now and im worried it might destroy my compressor shaft if i continue running on those BOVs.

I am serching for something more dependable and I was wondering are Tial BOVs any good?

Another question.

Do you guys run two BOVs at the intercooler to intake or one on each side of intercooler?

What spring rates?

Comments and feedbacks are most welcome.

1.8bar. bog stock 32gtr bov's

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
    • I assume clearances were all a-okay?
    • Shock tower brace is in +5Kw....LOL  
×
×
  • Create New...