Stagea Rb25 Modification Stage Guide

[Tangles]

Here is a rough guide, set in stages with costs and parts.

I have no affiliation with any mentioned company/brand mentioned here within.

Thought Id add my experience:

Stage 1: $3,250-

Power-Up, Handling & Braking . . . Expect 150-180rwkw

$30 - Ryco Z201 fuel filter, Ryco Z145 oil filter

$20 - NGK BCPRE6 0.8mm copper v-groove spark plugs

$150 - Davies Craig automatic transmission oil cooler upgrade kit

$230 - 3inch JustJap stainless steel single dump pipe system

$250 - 3inch high-flow metal race cat

$320 - 3inch cat-back exhaust system with straight-thru Magnaflow mid-muffler and rear-muffler

$100 - Cold Air Radiator air guide for cold air induction

$100 - Apexi power intake pod filter, using standard snorkel air feed & under body feed

$500 - Trust 600x400mm FMIC bar & plate, with custom hard pipe kit

$350 - Greddy Profec-B spec-ii dual stage Electronic Boost Controller set to 12psi

$250 - Apexi SAFC

$100 - Cusco brake master cylinder clamp

$400 - DBA slotted front brake discs

$100 - Bendix brake pads db1250 F / db1144 R

$100 - Whiteline front castor kit

$100 - Whiteline rear subframe alignment kit

$150 - Tune time

Stage 2: $3,100-

Power-Up, Handling & Braking . . . Expect 170 - 210rwkw

$30 - Ryco Z201 fuel filter, Ryco Z145 oil filter

$20 - NGK BCPRE6 0.8mm copper v-groove spark plugs

$150 - Greddy remote oil filter relocation kit

$20 - Fujimoto sump plug drain valve

$200 - Bosch 040 fuel pump with direct battery feed at 13.8volts

$500 - Splitfire coil packs

$120 - Aerospeed adjustable exhaust cam gear pulley wheel

$100 - Hard pipe intake to turbo

$110 - HKS heavy duty turbo actuator

$150 - Nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator

$250 - Nismo Z32 Air Flow Meter

$600 - Toshi ecu remap

$500 - Maltech stainless steel braided brake lines, front and rear

$100 - Bendix brake pads db1250 F / db1144 R

$250 - Tune time

Stage 3: $6,600-

Power-Up, Handling & Braking . . . Expect 220 - 250rwkw

$30 - Ryco Z201 fuel filter, Ryco Z145 oil filter

$20 - NGK BCPRE6 0.8mm copper v-groove spark plugs

$50 - Catch can kit

$500 - Koyo Radiator upgrade

$450 - MV Automatic valve body shift kit & auto service kit

$2500 - Garrett GT3076 700177-5015 IWBB Turbocharger, ported Nissan 45V4 front / AVO .73 rear housing

$200 - 3x 2" DIN gauge setup including boost pressure, oil pressure & oil temperature

$500 - Maltech stainless steel braided brake lines, front and rear

$1300 - Bilstein front and rear suspension shocks, with ‘lowering’ circlips, using standard springs

$600 - Whiteline front and rear adjustable swaybars

$200 - Dayz adjustable engine swaybar, custom boot swaybar

$100 - Bendix brake pads db1250 F / db1144 R

$150 - Tune time

Stage 4: $3,500-

Power-Up, Braking & Comfort . . . Expect 250 - 270rwkw

$30 - Ryco Z201 fuel filter, Ryco Z145 oil filter

$20 - NGK BCPRE6 0.8mm copper v-groove spark plugs

$200 - 3x 2" DIN gauge setup including boost pressure, oil pressure & oil temperature

$200 - Cometic gasket kit including rocker cover, intake manifold, intake collector & exhaust gaskets

$250 - Cometic head gasket 87mm x1.2mm

$150 - ARP head stud kit

$50 - Tomei oil gallery restrictor

$800 - AEM F/IC-8 copgyback ECU with laptop

$500 - JDM S15 Silvia 450/480cc injectors

$500 - Panoz Outlaw 4000-series front billet aluminium 4-pot disc calipers w/ Wilwood racing pads

$300 - SAAS D1 Drift adjustable race seat

$200 - Flynn racing seat rail

$300 - Tune time

Stage 5: $4,500-

Power-Up. . . Expect 260 - 300rwkw

$30 - Ryco Z201 fuel filter, Ryco Z145 oil filter

$20 - NGK BCPRE6 0.8mm copper v-groove spark plugs

$2000 - Ported, Flowed & Machined headwork including new valve seals, valve seats and valve guides

$1000 - Tomei 256 intake / 256 exhaust poncam gear set

$500 - Tomei 8.8mm high lift springs

$200 - EPP Clear camgear timing cover

$250 - AEM Air/Fuel ratio lambda sensor kit

$200 - Car Alarm

$300 - Tune time

As for Oils & Fuels - use only the best

Manual drivers take note: swap out the Toshi ecu & AEM Fic costs mentioned above for Power-FC kit

Also swap out automatic gearbox biased mods mentioned for a top-level clutch kit

Best of luck spending around-about' $20g give or take a little, depending on brand name and costs for installation(s) where required.

Tangles

[W0rp3D]

I know this is an old thread and some of the suggestions are out dated and and not needed (such as cam pulleys and even cams to get to 300 rwkw) but the one part im interested in is the transmission, if i am to believe what is written here (i cant find much elsewhere regarding the strength of the auto) then the auto will hold 300 rwkw with just an external oil cooler and shift kit, is this correct?

If i end up getting a stagea i would be aiming for around 250rwkw so if what is written here is correct then it should hold that power fine with the suggested mods.

Edited October 26, 2011 by W0rp3D

[QWK32]

I know this is an old thread and some of the suggestions are out dated and and not needed (such as cam pulleys and even cams to get to 300 rwkw) but the one part im interested in is the transmission, if i am to believe what is written here (i cant find much elsewhere regarding the strength of the auto) then the auto will hold 300 rwkw with just an external oil cooler and shift kit, is this correct?

If i end up getting a stagea i would be aiming for around 250rwkw so if what is written here is correct then it should hold that power fine with the suggested mods.

S2's already have an auto cooler so if your looking a S2's don't worry about an auto cooler. I can tell you that at 250awkw my stock S2 auto was flaring/slipping like crazy and took a while to grab the next gear. after a service (oil change, tighten bands etc) and a valve body upgrade, "shift kit", it was all sweet. i have now cranked it up to around 300awkw and its holding up ok after 2-3years at that level.

[W0rp3D]

Nice, exactly what i wanted to hear, will probably be looking at a S1, the S2 have the extra lights in the grille dont they? i prefer the look of the S1 with just the headlights.

[QWK32]

Nice, exactly what i wanted to hear, will probably be looking at a S1, the S2 have the extra lights in the grille dont they? i prefer the look of the S1 with just the headlights.

yeah the S2's have the high beams separate in the grill. the S2's auto is basically the same as the R34's, where as the S1's auto is basically the same as the R33's. S2 also having the NEO RB25 where the S1 has the same RB25 as the S2 R33's.

i can't really comment on the performance of the S1 auto, probably should wait for some of the other guys to comment. Tangles who originally posted this topic is making some good power through his S1 auto.

[Tangles]

The auto is fine, pulls brilliantly, behaves perfectly with 250kw at the rears with front driveshaft removed for the dynotune.

Now with the forged engine should be putting out some nice power (wont be doing a full-power tune though, I dont see the point in wringing its neck out when its so fresh). The gearbox will be fine upto around 300kw; its at 330kw that the internals should be looking into, ie new bands etc.

[wolverine]

Nice, exactly what i wanted to hear, will probably be looking at a S1, the S2 have the extra lights in the grille dont they? i prefer the look of the S1 with just the headlights.

The lack of easy engine management choices will be the issue with an S1.

[Stooge007]

how much power can you get to before the SMIC is maxed out?

[wolverine]

Realistically in a cool climate the stock S2 SMIC is fine for quite decent power for relatively short hits.

In Sydney, summer is warm enough for the stock SMIC to heatsoak fairly quickly with decent throttle applications at more modest power levels.

Kiwi Bob ran his car for quite a while with one at reasonable power levels so search his posts.

How much power vs how much power reliably in all conditions is the question to ask. IMO given the price of intercoolers these days if you want more power then simply install one. 7 to 10 years ago they were expensive so trying to max something small out made sense.

[too_much_boost]

The lack of easy engine management choices will be the issue with an S1.

There are ways around this problem

example here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/379753-s1-stagea-remapnistune-eculoom-kits/

[4bidn1]

im running a emanage ultimate on my s1 took 2hrs to wire in very easy and precise to tune complete fuel and timming maps as well as individual cylinder adjustment prob best piggy back ecu i have ever used , nistunes are great but there are other options out there, especially when it comes to the fun of a s1 ecu but the trade off is a much stronger trans in s1 mine is shift kitted and ratted to 315awkw by mv autos,

ultimate cost me $500 new from japan 2-3hrs of my time $25 worth of bits and pieces i played around with basic tune then got it cleaned up $200 so put me back less than 800 ok mates rates on tune but still would only be about 1k ? for joe blow

[KiwiRS4T]

Buy Tangles" car - everythings done - ready to go!

[wolverine]

The lack of easy engine management choices will be the issue with an S1.

For me plug and play is easy. Field harnesses and wiring in piggy back systems is what I call 'not easy' and 'potentially expensive' if you are paying a workshop however there are definitely options for series one. A SAFC will also do a pretty reasonable job.

I was only interested in the RS4S so the virtues of the auto transmissions isn't something I can comment on.

For the OP it is worth going in with your eyes open for the potential upsides and downsides of each model.