Jump to content
SAU Community

222rwkw On Stock Boost

tigermm

By tigermm,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

tigermm Apprentice

tigermm

Posted
Posted

Finally got my R on the dyno today.

All i have done is 3" cat back with a cat removal pipe (yay nz)

It came up with 222 at the rears on 16psi. Now I know thats not really stock boost but it still has the restrictor in it and removing it only got me 2 psi and 8kw.

Is it normal for boost to be this high with just the exhaust fitted?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296970-222rwkw-on-stock-boost/
Share on other sites
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

You are running GTR turbos @ 16psi?

That is not normal.

Power is a bit low, generally 1bar (14.7psi) will usually see 240-250rwkw. So considering you are running a bit more... not so good.

Start off by back the boost off to a safer level, 12-14psi max for GTR turbos (if one dies, it generally will kill your motor).

Then get some cam gears and a front pipe (fine with stock dumps), and then you should see a better result or similar, with less boost.

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
You are running GTR turbos @ 16psi?

That is not normal.

Power is a bit low, generally 1bar (14.7psi) will usually see 240-250rwkw. So considering you are running a bit more... not so good.

Start off by back the boost off to a safer level, 12-14psi max for GTR turbos (if one dies, it generally will kill your motor).

Then get some cam gears and a front pipe (fine with stock dumps), and then you should see a better result or similar, with less boost.

I would assume by his post that he does not have a boost controller. He won't be able to back boost off

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Well he removed the restrictor and gained another 2psi (18psi peak), is what i took from the way he worded it...

If there is a hole/split in the line then it is entirely possible to have increased boost without adjusting the actuators or a boost controller of some description.

tigermm Apprentice

tigermm

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Well he removed the restrictor and gained another 2psi (18psi peak), is what i took from the way he worded it...

If there is a hole/split in the line then it is entirely possible to have increased boost without adjusting the actuators or a boost controller of some description.

Yeah thats right, 18psi with the restrictor out. No other boost control system. What size is the hole in the restrictor meant to be?

Its weird tho, the dyno graph starts with boost already at 2psi at 40kmh in 3rd, so Im wondering if his sensor is a bit out and its actually running 14psi. Will have to get my own gauge and double check it.

How come one turbo dying takes out the motor?

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

ceramic exhaust wheel, usually the rear turbo.

wheel shatters, sends ceramic shards/dust back onto the piston - do a search mate, plenty of detailed threads with pictures etc etc.

basically the older the turbos, the more risk you run when going over 12-14psi

Sarumatix Veteran

Sarumatix

Posted
Posted

I tried to find an answer to that very question Brandon and no one came forth as such. Still it appears to be common knowledge so it would be highly recommended to make sure you are running safe boost levels for stock turbos.

Brandon Veteran

Brandon

Posted
Posted
I tried to find an answer to that very question Brandon and no one came forth as such. Still it appears to be common knowledge so it would be highly recommended to make sure you are running safe boost levels for stock turbos.

Yea, same here. Not that it affects me but whenever someone ask what pressure should they be running for stock turbo, I'll just reply 12psi to be safe. Some lucky ones may have gotten away with 14psi or 15psi for years but you cant expect every single turbo's the same. Morale of the story is, I rather be safe than sorry. You've got no one else to blame but yourself if it does shits itself.

It'll be a very costly experience or lesson to learn.

Sarumatix Veteran

Sarumatix

Posted
Posted

Actually I reread the thread and the data is fairly conclusive. Dead turbo results in ceramic dust being embedded in the piston on the exhaust side, check the photos out :action-smiley-069:.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/De...ad-t283890.html

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
I was gonna say - its pretty clear and conclusive what can happen, pictures are clear evidence of it occuring despite the what the "theorists" might tell you about it not being possible.

Not to doubt anything you are saying but can you PM me links to at least one of those threads. I would like to do some reading on the topic and find where they have had the 'dust' tested and confirmed it is actually ceramic

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

There is one linked above already?!?!

Considering it is on the exhaust side of the piston, what else is it honestly going to be after a turbo has let go?

Dirt? Sand? Come on...

EDIT: i know, they must be tiny rocks that started off as big rocks that made it past the air filter, were minced up by the compressor wheel, sent through the cooler and TB's and then somehow ended up soley on the exhaust side! :D

tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

No, if its dust or rocks then its drugs! nothing to do with ceramics. If you have negative pressure in the motor compared to the turbine or exhaust then the air will flow to that negative pressure...simple really.

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

Any hard and non combustible object entering the combustion chamber = bad. Ceramic turbos are a time bomb for your engine if you're overboosting them...might aswell take off your air filter for better flow too :D

Also note it varies from compressor to compressor and engine to engine how much psi you can get away with on stock ceramic turbos.

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted (edited)
Finally got my R on the dyno today.

All i have done is 3" cat back with a cat removal pipe (yay nz)

It came up with 222 at the rears on 16psi. Now I know thats not really stock boost but it still has the restrictor in it and removing it only got me 2 psi and 8kw.

Is it normal for boost to be this high with just the exhaust fitted?

yep soon as the restrictor is removed the std ecu pours in the fuel and dumbs it down. Most GTR's will pull around 190-200rwkw with a stock ecu, with a mines ecu they will pull around 220 (loads more timing about 29 degrees peak but still rich) a remap will yeild 230rwkw at less boost or 240kw with the restrictor removed and the remap controlling boost.... Sarumatix yours still has the highest reading on my dyno for a std rb26 so dont worry..... yet :D

Edited by URAS
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
There is one linked above already?!?!

Considering it is on the exhaust side of the piston, what else is it honestly going to be after a turbo has let go?

Dirt? Sand? Come on...

EDIT: i know, they must be tiny rocks that started off as big rocks that made it past the air filter, were minced up by the compressor wheel, sent through the cooler and TB's and then somehow ended up soley on the exhaust side! :)

ROFL.

Yes, not saying it isn't ceramic but no one has actually proven it to be that.

Keep in mind that you are talking about dust, not chunks, and when a turbine wheel comes off, what happens to the comp wheel? It starts machining the housing away at the front. This creates dust also. What happens to alloy dust when you burn it? It looks like what you'd imagine ceramic to look like.

Theories of engines sucking blades back into themselves is a bit far fetched. Can happen, I'm sure, but you guys all make out like it's going to happen to every single GTR turbo that ever existed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...