Jump to content
SAU Community

Broken Fuel Gauge

kikutaknight

By kikutaknight,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

kikutaknight Enthusiast

kikutaknight

Posted
Posted

i did a forum search and went through 4 pages of results without finding anything...

so my fuel gauge on my R33 is broken. it's funny...i had a r31 before this and it broke on that one too. maybe it's just me. it just sits on dead empty all the time. so i just fill it up every now and then, hoping i don't run out of fuel.

Does anyone know what's involved in getting it fixed and who i can go to for it? I thought i would ask on the forum before asking shops to see if i could learn anything useful. learn from ur experiences perhaps.

cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297010-broken-fuel-gauge/
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
kikutaknight Enthusiast

kikutaknight

Posted
  • Author
Posted
pull the sender out of the tank and give a good clean out as they get covered in rust and gunk

Umm...how easy is this to do? 

It seems like you can get access to it by following this guide: http://www.skyline-owners-club.com/forums/...l-pump-r33.html

minus changing the fuel pump...

  • 2 months later...
fourdoorlove Enthusiast

fourdoorlove

Posted
Posted

its four screws for the cover, then about 6 -8 for the sender and it will come straight out.. check that the spring and floater arm are in good condition, i had the same problem with mine bcoz my floater arm thingy was bent from a previous owner swapping fuel pumps dodgey like...

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
maka Enthusiast

maka

Posted
Posted

Hey man, I donno if it would be any use to you.

There is 3 pins at the back of the 33 dash that refer to the fuel.

By the sound of things it seems that it is more a gauge problem then the sender unit (if it went up when accelerating).

You can measure the 3 pins and see what you get. There is labels on the back of the dash for the correct pin (well it is actually 3 screws)

You can't miss it: Looking at the back of the dash, next to the right 10pin connector the fuel track that connects to the centre screw of the gauge is the sender signal.

The signal is a measurement between 0 ~ 180Ohm depending on level of the tank. With the ignition off, measure that wire in relevance to a ground. Using a multimeter on the 200 ohm setting. Alternatively.. Measure the other two pins. The top pin (screw) is GND, the bottom is +8V when ign is on.

If you find out that the gauge is at fault (measurements ok) let me know, I have another instrument cluster you can try and plug in, and see if that fixes the problem.

  • 1 year later...
DJSimmo Community Regular

DJSimmo

Posted
Posted

hey guys

i have the same problem with my r33 gtst

i parked the car on a slight angle with a full tank of fuel and when i came back the needle was past the E right at the bottom of the gauge. i plugged in another dash cluster and the needle started dropping streight away.

did you guys work out what was wrong?

clean or replace the sender unit?

if replace new or second hand? expensive?

cheers!!

marksuxass Collaborator

marksuxass

Posted
Posted

Try get a variable resistor and plug it into the terminals at the fuel tank. Turn your ignition on move the resistor and see if your gauge moves. If it does then your fuel sender is nackered. If it still doesnt it could be a wiring fault between the fuel sender and your instrument cluster or the cluster itself may be nackered. From memory you can get variable resistors from somewhere like dicksmiths for a few dollars. Not to sure which terminals to prob but, you may need a wiring diagram for that. Hope that helps a bit?

DJSimmo Community Regular

DJSimmo

Posted
Posted

Try get a variable resistor and plug it into the terminals at the fuel tank. Turn your ignition on move the resistor and see if your gauge moves. If it does then your fuel sender is nackered. If it still doesnt it could be a wiring fault between the fuel sender and your instrument cluster or the cluster itself may be nackered. From memory you can get variable resistors from somewhere like dicksmiths for a few dollars. Not to sure which terminals to prob but, you may need a wiring diagram for that. Hope that helps a bit?

I tried this and the gauge works fine so it must be the sender.

  • 2 months later...
R32 GTRRRR Newbie

R32 GTRRRR

Posted
Posted

Ok i took out the fuel sender unit and the float is not stuck plus it looks in good condition!!!

but the gauge is still stuck on reading 3 1/4 full??

i even filled the tank right to the top to see if it would move but no luck...

how can i check to see if its the gauge thats faulty or the sender unit not working??

DJSimmo Community Regular

DJSimmo

Posted
Posted

Ok i took out the fuel sender unit and the float is not stuck plus it looks in good condition!!!

but the gauge is still stuck on reading 3 1/4 full??

i even filled the tank right to the top to see if it would move but no luck...

how can i check to see if its the gauge thats faulty or the sender unit not working??

Did you pull apart the sender and give it a clean? Also the gauge could be faulty. You can test with a potentiometer or by simply pulling apart the fuel sender and then plugging it back in turning the ignition on and moving the float up and down to see if the gauge moves.

hope this helps. :)

DJSimmo Community Regular

DJSimmo

Posted
Posted

might be a stupid question but do u have to do any thing before opening the fuel tank

from my understanding i thought they were pressurized

you can start the engine and run the car and then pull the fuel pump fuse or relay this will remove the pressure in the fuel system and then the car will stall.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...