Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

got my r32 dynoed today at powertune...

rb20det

stock internals

stock injectors

stock turbo

fmic

3"exhaust/dump

pod

walbro 500hp fuel pump

stainless manifold (leakin badly needs replacment)

apexi safc controller

drift bov

run on 12psi.. made 172rwkw in 41 degree out side heat!!!

was happy

have rb25 turbo and gtr injectors on there way, will put on once get manifold fixed or replaced aftermarket plugs and coil packs and then retuned!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297071-r32/
Share on other sites

At the wheels.

For reference on a very safe tune with an HKS2530, fuel pump, injectors, AFM etc on a relatively good condition RB20 at 14psi bleeding down to 12 I got 175kw-180kw on a 33c degree day. Pulled 195kw at 16psi with massive misfires due to coils.

Could be a freak engine but its hard to imagine getting that much power out of a standard turbo.

Edited by Kwyjibo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297071-r32/#findComment-4948268
Share on other sites

Mate - those figures are wrong.

Have a look @ the IT temp is -71 (IT stands for Intake Temp Sensor)

They have a broken temp sensor, how can you be in -71 degree's on a 24 degree day?

Your coolant would be frozen solid - like i said mate, they have botched your runs, there is no possible way to make 170rwkw from a factory RB20 Turbo on 12psi

I suggest you find another tuner, if they can't even maintain or setup their equipment correctly, goodness knows what the tuning is like.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297071-r32/#findComment-4948695
Share on other sites

it was on a 41 degree day?air temp inside the shop and dyno room with the fan going would of been lower...

im not sayn u are wrong but i have a friend with the almost the same mods and he gets his car tuned at a different place and it makes 166rwkw with stock turbo???? my boost controller is set to 14.4psi on hi boost but has bad boost drop to 12 thats y i said on 12psi??? i have been told they were a good tuner

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297071-r32/#findComment-4948715
Share on other sites

If it was 41 degree's outside then that is even worse champ.

The dyno sheet AT:24 (Ambient Temp) says 24 degree's was the temp during your tune/runs etc etc.

Which is virtually 20 degree's off, not a good thing at all, quite signifigant in terms of accuracy. ;)

I say this because if they can't get simple weather corrections/sensors working, i would be dubious of other things like AFR's being correct (ie the sensor being poorly calibrated/broken like the other ones clearly are)

That then has follow on impacts to the tune and at worst - your motor.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297071-r32/#findComment-4948719
Share on other sites

they didnt put a thermometer on it so the intake temp wouldn be right.. i dunno then coz my mate also has one with 166rwkw and has drove mine and says goes better than his... pretty sure if u look at the otha 32s on here u will c some with more power with the stock turbo..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297071-r32/#findComment-4948726
Share on other sites

Mate you need to calibrate the dyno if you are ever going to hope to have meaningful results for everything from the power to the AFR's

Plenty of stock turbo results to be seen here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb....html&st=20

Norm is 145-160 give/take for 12-14psi.

130-140rwkw for 10-11psi

Normal temps (22-26) - Let alone on a 40 degree day.

It seems you don't really understand fully how a dyno works...

I've told you that the dyno they are using is not correctly setup at all, and this could easily result in a a poor tune and/or your motor death or serious damage over time.

So wether you choose to take what i've said seriously, or just don't care about your car/motor, is totally upto you.

I've seen plenty of people dudded by poor work over the years and it has cost them plenty of money to get it fixed down the track.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297071-r32/#findComment-4948744
Share on other sites

Mate you need to calibrate the dyno if you are ever going to hope to have meaningful results for everything from the power to the AFR's

Plenty of stock turbo results to be seen here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb....html&st=20

Norm is 145-160 give/take for 12-14psi.

130-140rwkw for 10-11psi

Normal temps (22-26) - Let alone on a 40 degree day.

It seems you don't really understand fully how a dyno works...

I've told you that the dyno they are using is not correctly setup at all, and this could easily result in a a poor tune and/or your motor death or serious damage over time.

So wether you choose to take what i've said seriously, or just don't care about your car/motor, is totally upto you.

I've seen plenty of people dudded by poor work over the years and it has cost them plenty of money to get it fixed down the track.

as i said it must be possible as i looked in the link and only looked at a few and spotted one 170rwkw on 1 bar boost stock turbo???

1990 R32 75000Kms

RB20DET Stock Internals

Stock Turbo

FMIC

POD

3" TRust exhaust

EBC

BP Ultimate

170.2rwkw @ 1 Bar Boost

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297071-r32/#findComment-4948748
Share on other sites

Agree with Ash. Wouldn't be pulling myself over those results. Obviously a dodgy maintained, high reading dyno to keep customers like you happy who don't understand the basics behind how dyno's work and calculate the data.

People comparing chassis dyno results are only kidding themselves. To many variables.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297071-r32/#findComment-4948763
Share on other sites

lol -71 degrees Intake temp. your fuel would be freezing in the inlet...

you need to understand the dyno software takes into account ambient temp (AT) and intake temp (IT) and corrects the power figure accordingly. withh figures like those who knows what kind of power figure correction it would be applying. but I can tell you now it's very, very unlikely that your 32 GTST is making 170rwkw @ 12.5psi. just as unlikely as it has -71C intake temp...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297071-r32/#findComment-4950897
Share on other sites

upsetting to see this mate, ive always heard good things about powertune

maybe you should take on the info richard and ash are saying and give them a call and ask some questions, and try to get some answers and hopefully a re-tune/refund/etc..

also, keep your eye out for an rb25 turbo, a nice bang for buck upgrade for the rb20 :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297071-r32/#findComment-4950930
Share on other sites

...like i said mate, they have botched your runs, there is no possible way to make 170rwkw from a factory RB20 Turbo on 12psi

yeh i have rb25 turbo and gtr injectors on there way... maybe they f*kd up.. ive seen a few otha ones making like 180kw + with stock turbo so i dunno... yeh powertune is supossed to be great

i think they f**ked up man, ash knows his shit

call them

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297071-r32/#findComment-4951606
Share on other sites

yeah I dunno about this bloke but I have seen an RB20 silvertop on an A31 unopened with an Impul ECU, East Bear front mount GT-R cooler kit, 3" zorst no cat or mufflers and a R34 turbo pull 170 rwkw, the car's track performance was able to speak for itself (ie was able to cane a stock R34 GT-T, and give my old 160rwkw VN SS a hiding lol; I admit there would be a weight advantage since this A31 weighs 1200kg lol)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297071-r32/#findComment-4956133
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. A 3d wheel alignment is like $120...just take it to the shop. Since theres probably multiple adjustments that need to be made after changing something. Mine has front/rear lower arms, traction rods, tension rods, camber arms, toe arms, front upper arms, hicas kit, sway bars and coilovers. I measure from the edge of the bolt holes on the originals and set the same length on all the adjustable stuff to dial it as close as I could to OEM. Took it straight for alignment; it didnt feel right at all...after alignment, it feels perfect. Similarly i've just changed the springs on another car; and I still needed multiple adjustments to bring it back in spec.
    • A full Veilside kitted JZA80 Supra in Meriken park in Kobe city a few weeks back
    • Its a well known brand in New Zealand; its a rebrand of the Rhino RAV3.  I don't know what the wiring difference *is* between the rev.1 (installed about 15 years ago) and rev.2; but as you say I would think its reasonable that it uses the same immobiliser relay circuits. I had a look but couldnt see a similar harness; but didnt move things around since I didnt want to mess with it   It was one of AVS well known Authorised Installers; I spoke to AVS themselves about it but theyre unsure hence seeking advice more so from the skyline community who are more familiar with the actual car and its wiring. Im in Auckland; but the installer is on the other side of the city so hes very reluctant to come back to even look at it to confirm something isnt connected into the wrong wire.  I dont want to drop the name since they *did* do a really good job for the most part. Everything is very tidy and he fully replaced all the alarm wiring, all the sensors, the wiring to the door motors, installed a switch which was never installed in the first place...really happy with the alarm install itself..just not this one issue. We all make mistakes, if it is the alarm, I just want my fuel pump getting proper switched, fused, power as it was; without having to shell out for an auto electrician to switch a wire and tell me it was the alarm. 
    • Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
×
×
  • Create New...